flyingbrass

Front seal seems fine. It passed emissions (IM147).

The fuel level is still at the top of the sight glass. I'm guessing she's running rich.

Results from 2 years ago:

TinMan

Right on. looks like time for a carb rebuild. Then another good 10 years out of it.

flyingbrass

Update: So far, so good.

At around 50 miles I noticed a drop wanting to drip, but not quite, at the rear of the oil pan. It was motor oil. Looked like it probably came from the rear seal. Uh oh. I wiped it off. Now at about 100 miles, it's still dry. Maybe a little seeped past as the new seal seated?

I had to top off the coolant reservoir a few times as the air worked out, but coolant level has been holding steady since.

Driving is a bit nerve wracking because I listen to the engine intently all the time, keep looking for leaks, etc. expecting something to go wrong. It will be a while before I trust it.

I dropped the rear driveline to check the transfer output leak. I've had an intermittent vibration at highway speeds for years. As I suspected, the flange nut was loose. It turned back and forth by hand as far as the stake would allow. Oil was leaking through the splines, not past the seal.

The flange wasn't grooved. The output shaft itself had a little wiggle, but not much, so I'm assuming the bearing is ok. I put in a new seal, cleaned and RTV'd the splines, put on a new nut with blue loctite torqued to 90 lbs., and staked the nut better than the original. Seems pretty common for these to loosen over time.

Before rebuilding the carb I need to play with the choke some more. Fast idle won't engage when cold, which I originally blamed on cruddy linkage. Now I'm not so sure the choke coil is working. Apparently, no replacements are available, so if mine is shot I either need to round up a used carb or convert to a manual choke. Before someone suggests it, no, I don't want a Weber.

tried4x2signN

I just got a timing cover off Ebay... And the same thing. Same marks, same locations!

$60 shipped, but I was plum out of 79-84 timing covers and had to have one.

My step doesn't look as high as yours though, and like sand paper could knock it down.

Not bad for $60, and I could have just lucked up, but not good either..

You guys can talk all day long about how good "Rock" parts are, but they're just another distributor of cheap junky parts...

This is prolly WHY Ted doesn't carry them... (well, 79-84 covers anyway..)

flyingbrass

I stoned that ridge down flush with the rest. Probably wasn't necessary, but made me feel better. I sprayed High Tack on both sides of the gasket. No leaks so far.

Rock is a label. I doubt there are more than a few manufacturers of parts such as timing chain covers and oil pumps, though there are many "brands." From what Ted has said, I gather they are the same parts with different stickers, not counting the Chinese stuff, which is another realm. I do wonder if seconds or blemished parts are sorted and sold cheaper than the higher valued brands ("Rock" vs. "Aisin").

1990yota-pickup

i would of punched someone through the phone over that...
non sense...

flyingbrass

My engine runs ok, but still doesn't have the oomph I'd expect from a fresh motor. Mostly seems sluggish accelerating, which I notice most after shifting into 3rd gear. Could be the carb, which I strongly suspect. Or timing, timing advance or even a vacuum leak. Or ?

Installing a new Kyosan (probably the same thing you get from the dealer) fuel pump brought the fuel level in the carb sight glass back down to about half way, which is where it should be. Go figure. It had been at the top before.

I'll check out the carb soon. From what I've gathered, if the electric choke isn't working I'll need to either rig up a manual choke or find a different carb. I'd like to figure out the situation before spending $50ish on a rebuild kit.

Rebuilding the carb is even more intimidating than rebuilding the engine. Lots of parts to keep track of. I can envision my cats knocking carefully arranged parts off the table.

Staceman1

Brass,
There are a few used carbs on car-part.com for $50. You could swap it out and try it. Then use whichever carb runs the best, and then you can take your time rebuilding the other one. Just tossing it out there.

1990yota-pickup

hey man, looks like i just sprung a front main seal, oil leak..

maybe i should wait 5 days until i report the leak..

i guess i'll be pulling the rad. and alt. belt and fan out tonight...

need somthing to stay busy..

1990yota-pickup

man, i went to 3 different part stores to get the front main oil seal last night, i was rushing to beat closing timing lucky at the second place called the third place and they verify they actually did have the seal. i spent more timing driving around then actually removal and installation.

ltdrifter

Good read and excellent attention to detail. I'm getting ready to do a rebuild on the 22R that came with the 86 4Runner my wife just bought. This will be a lot of help, thanks for taking the time to share.

1990yota-pickup

the front main oil seal i got for my truck was made by Timken.. when i pulled te old seal out that was made by national there was no, spring on the inside of seal to keep it held tight on crank pully so thats why it started leaking. i pack the new seal with som grease to keep the spring from bouncing/poping out of place. aswel as put grease in the lips of seal for a good soild seal, i thinki spent a told of a hour put it back together..

that crank bolt didnt want to come off.. at all, i just let the impact wear it out until it decied to break loose.

the crank bolt torques spec is 116 lbs ft.

flyingbrass

My engine only has about 320 miles on it so far. Oil is down a little on the dipstick. Perhaps that's to be expected.

Here are the plugs.





I haven't done anything with the carb yet. Looks like I had better. Isn't the soot from running rich?

I rechecked torque on the head bolts. None moved this time. I checked/readjusted the valves. I think I have a noisy one (or several), but they are set .007" and .010" cold, give or take a hair for error. Pretty close though. Maybe I should try adjusting them hot.

Compression is fairly even:

#1: 160
#2: 166
#3: 160
#4: 162

Edited to add before I forget: Compression testing was done cold. Removing steel spark plugs from a hot aluminum head doesn't strike me as a good idea. All plugs were out, gas pedal floored. Gave it a good 6 whumping, or whatever you want to call it, sounds turning over on each cylinder.

hilandfrog

I'd think any oil loss at 380 miles would be from rings seating and gaskets getting filled up???

Good news on the head bolts:clap

Repo

flyingbrass

I hope the rings will seat if they haven't already. I've read of an alarming (to me) number of rebuilds continuing to burn oil. Makes me wonder if maybe iron rings are a better choice for home builders.

MortonPhotographic

Thanks for taking the time to do this--it is really helpful! I needed to know about some bolts and brackets on the timing chain cover and your pics helped, as did the FSM diagram.

I also need motor mounts and don't really know the best route, especially after seeing the problems you had.

Silicone sealent and seal packing was mentioned before. My builder said to use Ultragey RTV. This was the best advice I got as far as I could determine. Funny thing about buying anything that is in liquid form and will cure/dry--CHECK THE DATE! Now I know these things don't have expiration dates, but if you look at the back of the box/tube/can, you can see a copyright date usually near the manufacturer's address. As of 2010 I have found RTV silicone, Head gasket varnish, spray paint and other items as old as 1999 still on the shelf!!! Sure, the company may not renew the copyright date every year, but I bought the same products I found dated 1999 at another store dated 2004 or newer (I have gone to 3 different auto parts stores to find the newest date of a given goo).

I suspect this isn't a huge issue, but with all the trouble I am going through, I am not going to use 11 year old sealent!

92 TOY

hit me up also if you need pics MORTON

camo31_10.50

my 22r was a slug, until about 5000miles after the full rebuild....now it'll scream!


although i'm having a coolant issue at the moment....

flyingbrass

I'm glad it's helping, and thanks for the feedback.

My mount problem was/is the driver side mount on the frame being slightly off. I presume it came that way from the factory. The original mount was squashed over to the side. I used a long piece of drill rod as a pry bar to move the rubber part of the new mount over enough to get the bolts in. I've never heard of anyone encountering such an issue, so I presume it's rare. So far, these mounts seem to be holding up ok, though I still plan to chain the driver side just in case.

I can remove and replace the valve cover, though it's a tight fit by the heater hoses. I suspect the mounts will settle some over time, so this isn't a big deal. It sure was for installing the engine. Leave the cover off for that.

BTW, the gray valve cover gasket that I think came in Engnbldr's kit fell out of the valve cover last time I pulled it. I couldn't get the gasket to stay back in by itself, so I cleaned it off and used a little RTV to help stick it to the cover. Never had that problem with a Fel-Pro.


Good advice. A friend had problems with a "new" old tube of RTV.

Ultra Gray seems popular for most things Toyota. Marlin uses it on transmissions and transfer cases, Putney's Machine uses it everywhere that calls for sealant, Jim Brink recommended it for doing a timing chain, etc.

Gray probably would have been fine on the oil pan too, but I felt better using Toyota FIPG. I've heard The Right Stuff is chemically similar to FIPG.

flyingbrass

Interesting. I'll check compression again in a few thousand miles to see if it changes.

My carb needs a refresh, but my cat may also be a problem. When I pulled it to take a look there weren't any obvious clogs, but held up to the sun I could only see a small point of light through it. If these cats weren't worth so much I'd gut it for now (next emissions test is 2 years away).

Good luck with your coolant issue. I hope it's nothing serious.