flyingbrass

Today:

• Put the remaining bell housing bolts in and tightened them all.
• Hooked up the exhaust. I had to remove the bracket that holds the pipe to the bell housing and wallow out the big hole a little so the big bolt would fit through.
• Reconnected head to firewall ground, negative battery cable to block, and the ground wire that goes to a bolt on the PS bracket. Sanded everything clean first.
• Reconnected vacuum hoses and wires. Used a little dielectric grease on the o-rings of the plastic wire connectors.

I'm hoping tomorrow I'll have help to get the hood on, the clutch bled, and the crank pulley bolt torqued.

Beyond that, I need to install alternator, PS pump, fan, belts, radiator, new heater hose. Put oil back in the tranny (drained when replacing shaft seal). Check oil in the leaking transfer while I'm at it. Connect soft fuel lines. Buy and put in a new battery and either a terminal clamp or new battery cable. Few other odds 'n ends.

Getting closer.

92 TOY

wow...this IS EXCITING!!!!!!!!!!!

1990yota-pickup

do u know it will run?

flyingbrass

I see you're an optimist.

I couldn't bring myself to put my oil-soaked, caked-full-of-crap alternator back on, so I dropped it off at a local alternator/starter rebuild shop. Should be done in a few days.

I still haven't determined how to clean alternators safely. The windings supposedly have some kind of protective coating, plus I don't know what's ok to use on other sensitive parts within. Flushing it out with brake cleaner, electrical parts cleaner or whatever else didn't seem wise without knowing the consequences. Might ruin it. I've searched all over and have asked here several times. Still haven't found an answer.

joltin_jim11

buy one from a store that has "lifetime guarantee" then you dont have to worry about cleaning it

flyingbrass

Yeah, been there with another vehicle. If you don't mind taking advantage of that "lifetime guarantee" fairly often, and usually at the worst possible times for a part to crap out, go for it.

I'd rather have my original gone through by a good local shop. Same goes for the starter, though ours often only require a simple, cheap fix: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ct-fix-193101/

92 TOY

hey thanks for the info yesterday.

flyingbrass

Glad to help.

I got my alternator back today. The guy said it was practically an oil filter. A leaking front seal makes a mess of them. Cleaned up, put in new bearings and brushes. Everything else was ok.

One of these days I may upgrade to a higher output alternator. Unless/until I get some goodies that need it, stock will suffice. I'd like to rig up some lights for offroad driving. If I do, they will be LEDs which don't require much juice.

My negative battery clamp is in bad shape. The cable is the kind with 2 full thickness (probably 6 AWG) wires coming out of the clamp. One bolts to the block; the other bolts inside the fender. Parts stores want over $30 for this style, which I think is nuts. The existing wire to the fender isn't long enough to cut off and stuff in a new clamp. I might see about having a new cable made.

I've been fighting a nasty toothache the past few days. Can't think straight. I'm hoping it will die down soon.

92 TOY

Good about the alternator, bad about the tooth.

Again, thanks....

1990yota-pickup

screw, on making a cable just go pick you up a nice thick cable at the local parts store..

new cables in my truck will allow the truck to drive off the starter.. if in gear...

flyingbrass

That tooth got worse -- really bad and with a fever. Percocet didn't even knock much of the edge off. Now, after several days of taking an antibiotic it's feeling mostly ok. Not a permanent fix, but at least bought me some time.

Got the alternator, PS pump, AC comp, belts, fan, radiator put in. Hood is back on. Bled the clutch, torqued the crank pulley bolt, organized some wires and hoses.

I took the catalytic converter off in an attempt to see if it's plugged. Looking through it, I could only see a small spot of light, which shifted as I looked through different areas. I suspect this is due to the matrix inside. Are clogged ones obviously junked up?

In:





Out:






I had assumed my lower radiator hose was ok because it was only a couple years old. I didn't look at it until today. It's slightly swollen near the radiator outlet, feels soft there, and makes an odd sound when squeezed. It was a cut-to-fit from Napa. I paid $20 at the dealer today for a new one. Can tell it's much better quality.

All that's left is to get a new battery, new negative clamp or cable, add coolant and oil, probably replace the fuel filter. Planning to fire it up (or at least try) on Wednesday.

joltin_jim11

ive got 340,000+ miles on my 1986 toyota 4x4 and can tell u from experience the dealer hoses and belts for toyota are far superior to parts store belts and hoses. at 90,000 miles i figured id change the new belts on my truck even though they looked pretty good for that many miles.i bought the replacements from a parts store. the Gates belt on the alternator lasted 30,000 miles and shredded on me going down the freeway. fortunately i had tucked all the old belts under the extra cab.........i was back on road in 15 minutes. got home and went to dealer to replace the parts store belts with toyota ones. life lesson learned keep the old hoses and belts as spairs, they may come in handy in the middle of nowhere. gl with the tooth, JJ

Staceman1

Your CAT is fine, put it back. Also, ditto on belts and hoses!

PS, hope that tooth gets better!

1990yota-pickup

keep spare in a old tackel box behind your seat so you never will be stuck on the road longer then 15 minutes ie (belts jb weld, saftey wire zip ties hose clamps new hoses, pair of spark plugs,

cant go wrong with a BDAR KIT battle damage assetment and Repair kit

joltin_jim11

make it the 4 hour JB weld.........i actually had to put a completely stripped spark plug in with the 4 hour JB. just goo'd it all over and stuck it in. this was in Oklahoma and it got me back home to California and many miles after that.

92 TOY

Flying...you're getting closer.

oooooooohhhh...I hate teeth sooooo much. lots of mouthwash...a good one like listerine and hold it over the tooth area too. FINISH YOUR ANTIBIOTICS TOO!!!!! Percocet are a popular goody as well...might be better off with some motrin or alleve instead (motrin OR alleve but not both as they are both the same kind of medicine and are tuff on the belly) but they are anti-inflammatories....infection and inflammation are what are giving you the pain.

flyingbrass

I've been making a mental list for a tool kit to carry. I need to put everything in a box instead of jammed behind the seat. Already back there is a blanket, 2x8 blocks, factory bottle jack, cheater pipe, odds n ends of wrenches, channel locks, screwdrivers, hose clamps, a hose or several, old belts (probably the originals), zip ties, and the all-important, always keep it there so you don't get caught without when wheeling: toilet paper.

I'll add some more sockets, extensions, etc. JB weld is a great idea.

My tooth is semi-ok for the time being, but I know it's borrowed time.

I went to an Interstate battery store/warehouse (69th and Orangewood for those in the west valley) and had them make me a battery cable. They didn't have any 4 gauge wire, so they used 2 gauge. Crimped part of my old main cable into the clamp to go to the fender/body ground screw. Only cost $11.48 after tax. Nice, helpful people there. Before making the cable they pulled a pallet off a top shelf with a forklift and dug through the boxes it held to see if they had a pre-made one that would work. A+ for customer service.

joltin_jim11

i think you got a pretty good deal on them making that battery cable for you.

flyingbrass

Yeah, it sure beats $30 everyone wants for a 6 gauge original style cable (actually, the orginal looks smaller than 6). Someday I'd like to put in a higher output alternator. When replacing cables, might as well get ones beefy enough to handle it. 2 gauge is overkill.

I bought Gates belts from Checker. Now I'm wishing I had gone Toyota. Also bought a battery at Checker. Tried a group 24, which didn't quite fit in the battery tray. Took it back and got a smaller, weaker 25, which is what I had before. My old battery still showed 12.37v after sitting all these months, but it was 6 years old. Someday I'd like to get an Odyssey. $200 is too steep right now.

For now I'm going to reuse my thermostat. It's only a few years old and was working fine. Says made in USA. I tested it in hot water this evening. I might cut out the jiggler thing. I didn't have a temp overshoot problem before, but I've read that it can crop up after making changes.

Edited to add: I left the jiggler in.

I've left a heater hose undone and the thermostat housing is off. I'll pour some coolant into the heater and fill the block through the t-stat hole before installing the thermostat. I'm hoping that will get everything filled better than just pouring coolant in the radiator.

I was afraid that after running so long with a burned valve the cat might be a mess. New exhaust is on the todo list, after brakes, tires, rear springs or whatever else more important crops up.

Tomorrow is the planned fire up day. Might replace the transfer output seal first. It is dribbling just sitting there. I hope the bearing is ok.

TinMan

looking forward to reading about the first start. What is the break in procedure you are going to use? what break in oil are you using?

My rebuild kit came in yestarday. It is all rock brand stuff. But seems to be a decent quality. I am sure I will follow your lead on some of the gen toyota stuff, like head gasket and what not. Prob going to go with clevite bearings

looking forward to hearing her start up.