1st gen roll bar 2nd gen 4runner install with pics
#1
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
1st gen roll bar 2nd gen 4runner install with pics
Well today I figured out how to install the 1gen roll bar into my 2nd gen 4runner and have a few pictures and some advise for those looking to do this install as well.
The first thing I learned is doing it by yourself is not happening you will definitely need someone to help.
The next thing I learned is going through the tailgate is not happening either the easiest and only way to do it is through the rear drivers side door well might go the same from passenger side as well I used the drivers side.
Here's the way to do it (or the way I did it and it worked great)
After cutting 2 1/4" s off all four legs turn the roll bar upside down so that the roof side is laying on the floor. Grab your helper and have him/her go to the other side of the truck and open the rear door and help slide the roll bar completely inside and remove that side's seatbelt as both of them need to be removed , A 14 mm socket will do it also make sure you both put the seatbelt on the same side of the rollbar.
Now that the roll bar is fully inside the rear of the truck slowly slide it back toward the wheel well and start rotating it into the standing position it will fight and your helper has to keep pace with you and it will fight you all the way but once you have it turned into position it's all sweet and well worth it just looking at it setting there , it may only be for BLING but boy doe's it BLING well.
I belive if you do this and don't have the speaker's in place like I do it should be no problem and no need to take out the side panels and you maybe even able to weld your mounting feet on outside but with my speakers I had to weld mine up inside. You may also want to weld them inside as well because the front feet will have a bit of an angle to them from the wheel well so just pull your carpet up set it and wed away.
I also for got I had my camera with me till my buddy told me it was sitting on the front seat so all the pictures are after the rolling into place part VERY SORRY. You may also want to trace a set of plates and cut them to match the feet for the bar so you can mount the nuts on the bottom on a steel plate and not run the risk of pulling them throught the floor and ruining that part of the floors.
So now on to the pictures!
The first thing to do is drop the rear seats and push the front seats all the way forward and tilt them forward as well that little bit of room makes all the differance.
My friend Danny checking things out after getting the roll bar in place not set yet
Seeing what Danny's seeing
Danny jumping in and doing some welding because he wanted to help and get in on the fun
Almost done all set to match side to side and from the end of the roll bar to the edge of the tailgate
Now I just need to get some por 15 to make it a beautiful piece of TOYOTA HISTORY
The first thing I learned is doing it by yourself is not happening you will definitely need someone to help.
The next thing I learned is going through the tailgate is not happening either the easiest and only way to do it is through the rear drivers side door well might go the same from passenger side as well I used the drivers side.
Here's the way to do it (or the way I did it and it worked great)
After cutting 2 1/4" s off all four legs turn the roll bar upside down so that the roof side is laying on the floor. Grab your helper and have him/her go to the other side of the truck and open the rear door and help slide the roll bar completely inside and remove that side's seatbelt as both of them need to be removed , A 14 mm socket will do it also make sure you both put the seatbelt on the same side of the rollbar.
Now that the roll bar is fully inside the rear of the truck slowly slide it back toward the wheel well and start rotating it into the standing position it will fight and your helper has to keep pace with you and it will fight you all the way but once you have it turned into position it's all sweet and well worth it just looking at it setting there , it may only be for BLING but boy doe's it BLING well.
I belive if you do this and don't have the speaker's in place like I do it should be no problem and no need to take out the side panels and you maybe even able to weld your mounting feet on outside but with my speakers I had to weld mine up inside. You may also want to weld them inside as well because the front feet will have a bit of an angle to them from the wheel well so just pull your carpet up set it and wed away.
I also for got I had my camera with me till my buddy told me it was sitting on the front seat so all the pictures are after the rolling into place part VERY SORRY. You may also want to trace a set of plates and cut them to match the feet for the bar so you can mount the nuts on the bottom on a steel plate and not run the risk of pulling them throught the floor and ruining that part of the floors.
So now on to the pictures!
The first thing to do is drop the rear seats and push the front seats all the way forward and tilt them forward as well that little bit of room makes all the differance.
My friend Danny checking things out after getting the roll bar in place not set yet
Seeing what Danny's seeing
Danny jumping in and doing some welding because he wanted to help and get in on the fun
Almost done all set to match side to side and from the end of the roll bar to the edge of the tailgate
Now I just need to get some por 15 to make it a beautiful piece of TOYOTA HISTORY
#4
Looks good, but I know why you couldn't fit the rollbar in the tailgate...look at all that crap in your cargo area!
Yep, gotta sneak in the doors as the roll bar won't go through the tailgate and it is much easier to weld the feet on outside the vehicle due to room and setting the carpet on fire.
Yep, gotta sneak in the doors as the roll bar won't go through the tailgate and it is much easier to weld the feet on outside the vehicle due to room and setting the carpet on fire.
#6
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Looks good, but I know why you couldn't fit the rollbar in the tailgate...look at all that crap in your cargo area!
Yep, gotta sneak in the doors as the roll bar won't go through the tailgate and it is much easier to weld the feet on outside the vehicle due to room and setting the carpet on fire.
Yep, gotta sneak in the doors as the roll bar won't go through the tailgate and it is much easier to weld the feet on outside the vehicle due to room and setting the carpet on fire.
Notice the 6 pack of water , and the p.b.blast , a couple snatch straps( incase I needed snatched out real fast ) a 3.0 90-95 repair manual
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#10
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
The hardest thing is to get it in the rear and rolled into place and hats really not that hard just roll up your carpet mark drill and your done. By the look of things if you did that sas this will be like changing the oil.
You will be glad you did in the end its the shi* and adds a new dimension to the back of your runner and it really don't block your view but with your window down people notice it so far I have had 4 guys ask me about doing it on there's.
#12
Yes, you are probably going to have to cut it to fit as the fender well to floor lengths are different from generation to generation compared to the 1st gen roll bar.
Measure 3 times and cut too long so you can trim some more if need be. You don't want to have to weld some tubing back on, just the mounting plates and probably at an angle to fit the fender well.
Measure 3 times and cut too long so you can trim some more if need be. You don't want to have to weld some tubing back on, just the mounting plates and probably at an angle to fit the fender well.
#13
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Yes, you are probably going to have to cut it to fit as the fender well to floor lengths are different from generation to generation compared to the 1st gen roll bar.
Measure 3 times and cut too long so you can trim some more if need be. You don't want to have to weld some tubing back on, just the mounting plates and probably at an angle to fit the fender well.
Measure 3 times and cut too long so you can trim some more if need be. You don't want to have to weld some tubing back on, just the mounting plates and probably at an angle to fit the fender well.
Last edited by olharleyman; 01-03-2008 at 03:02 PM.
#14
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Yes, you are probably going to have to cut it to fit as the fender well to floor lengths are different from generation to generation compared to the 1st gen roll bar.
Measure 3 times and cut too long so you can trim some more if need be. You don't want to have to weld some tubing back on, just the mounting plates and probably at an angle to fit the fender well.
Measure 3 times and cut too long so you can trim some more if need be. You don't want to have to weld some tubing back on, just the mounting plates and probably at an angle to fit the fender well.
Last edited by olharleyman; 01-03-2008 at 03:04 PM.
#16
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Well the holes are pre drilled into the mounting plates so i just used a step bit that matched the boltholes in the stock mount hole's , iimc they were 7/16 x 1" bolt's with nut's and lock washers on the bottom plates I made to match the top ones.
Last edited by olharleyman; 01-03-2008 at 05:02 PM.
#18
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Thread Starter
#20
Registered User
Can you post a pic of the bar in relation to the seat backs with the seats UP?
The reason is that I am thinking of putting a Milford cargo barrier into my Gen1 4Runner.
http://www.milfordind.com.au/shop/?p...02ed27c7c783ed
I realize that the Gen1 appears to have a "lower" floor - so thats not a huge issue.
But I want to have an idea of how the seat backs differ...
The reason is that I am thinking of putting a Milford cargo barrier into my Gen1 4Runner.
http://www.milfordind.com.au/shop/?p...02ed27c7c783ed
I realize that the Gen1 appears to have a "lower" floor - so thats not a huge issue.
But I want to have an idea of how the seat backs differ...