So after having the relay bank and several sensors in the back window go out in the past few weeks ive decided to make a standalone wire harness for the back window, but keep the factory switch in the center console and the key switch in the back.

Things you will need:
2x 5 Pin relay (with N.O and N.C contacts)
spade crimps
Wire (16 Gauge)
Fuse Holder

Run one hot wire from the battery into the firewall and through the center console all the way to the rear cargo hatch, while running this wire pull two more to the center console from the rear hatch to feed the switch legs. Wire the relays accordingly and hook everything up, works pretty awesome.

 

Did you put a fuse in-line from your power source? I didn't see it mentioned in your post. Pretty important if you don't want to catch your truck on fire. I hung the relays behind the dash and mounted the switch in an empty slot below the heater-fan controls. I tapped power from the original rear window circuit breaker line-blue wire from left side kick panel.

 

Hey, wondering what the section is with all the numbers... 87 86 87a 85 ect.... are those the stock relays?..... I'm trying to wire a rear window into and 82 2x4 pickup wire harness.... I have the entire 4runner rear window harness, switches relays and all... just trying to understand it better before I dive in

 

Googling "automotive relay pinout" came up with this first: https://www.delcity.net/images/lined...%20Diagram.pdf

Those numbers are (more-or-less) standard pin numbers for automotive relays.

 

Nice, thx... googles your friend if you know what to type in... seems like this is the most... legit way to wire it

 

You're awesome for posting this! I rewired mine due to messed up relay and bad switch but got afraid more switches were gonna fail. I put one 3-way toggle switch up front like most people who hillbilly rewire it and I want the rear key switch back, but I'm not so good at electronics and no one else wanted to help me figure it out.

P.s. I put an inline fuse on the the hot wire (15amp, iirc)

Thanks again, this will help a lot of people!

 

 

what gauge wire should be used for this?

 

I got this all connected and the front switch now works. However the key does not. It worked until a week ago when it all quit working.

I tested continuity on wire between relay and key with relay and key disconnected so I know my cabling is good.

I tested continuity next on the key. these are the only ones that passed.

L turn - blue/black to blue
R turn - blue / white to blue
no turn - white / black to green

i get no click at the relay


any help would much appreciated. I have nothing else wired to the key except for the blue/black and blue /white. Do I need to do something with the blue at the switch?

 

Quite often, the actual test conditions may be in error. Like, is the key in the run position? Is the top on the truck? Is the rear window wiper all the way UP? Like as in it's rest position on the holder? Just a little out will stop the glass from moving. Is the rear door lock button down (locked) ALL the way?
It doesn't take much to disable the whole circuit. It's a safety thing. They didn't want the rear window moving with the tailgate down, for example. Kids crawling around, window part way down, crash! goes the glass.

All the conditions for window movement being true, however, did you make certain the switch in the center console isn't sticking one way or the other? Not enough to move the glass, but enough that the relay is disabled? I've found that, as well as the key switch being just out of center, can cause things to not work as expected.

Finally, you can try taking the switch part of the key-switch off the key cylinder, and cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner and a plastic brush. Put it all back together, then try the key. From your test results, it sounds like the keyswitch is working as it should, but still...

Get a copy of the FSM online. It's a PDF, and you can print pages out as needed to take out to the truck. It has a complete set of schematics in the far back.
Worst case scenario, it may be time for a new relay.

Good luck to you!
Pat☺

 

I jumped the blue/black and blue/white on the relay side of the key harness and get nothing. I would thing that completing that circuit would yield window movement or at least some relay click

 

If you put a +12VDC source to each side of the motor, one at a time, the motor should drive the glass one way or the other, depending on which side of the switch you're on.
Here's the schematic I have. The colors my be slightly different for your truck.


You can also see the wires to connect to to try the motor it's self. Apply the +12VDC to one side of the motor, then the other to make sure the motor functions properly.
Don't leave it on too long, as you don't want to drive the glass too far.
You can also try and see, with +12VDC applied to the relay, if there is voltage to the two key switch sections. One for the window, one for the lock. They apply ground to the relay to provide a complete circuit to their respective circuits. Again,, one for the window, one for the lock, as you can see above.
If only one half of the key switch is functional, and it sounds like the half that works is for the automatic locking setup, you can pull them off the key's cylinder, and try cleaning. Re-assemble, and see if everything works.

Finally, verify that you have +12VDC actually going to the power relay assembly. You can see that there is a circuit breaker in the power input line. Does it need to be reset?




It's inside the driver side kick panel, where the fuse box is. It's a small, circular, aluminum case, with a flat top. You can pull it out, and check it. Only 2 terminals. Is there continuity? If not, there is a small hole in the top. Insert a small, very small probe, screwdriver, whatever. Press until you hear a click. It should now have continuity. If not, the circuit breaker is bad. If it's good, put it back in, and try the back window. If the CB pops again, you have a short to ground in the circuit someplace. Now comes the fun part. You need to trace the wire to find it. Something that can help is to measure to ground. Probably will have a very low ohm reading. You can pull a plug about 1/2 way to the power relay some place, and measure again. Short? If not, the trouble is before the plug. If so, the problem is further along. It reduces the length of wire you have to trace out. You can see the path in the schematic above, and the connectors in the line.
These wires get old, and the insulation get's brittle. Just a small crack or portion flaking off, and there's the path to ground. You see?

Hope something in all this helps...
Pat☺

 

There is a step missing in the hand drawn diagram. You may have picked up already? What is that third wire on the key switch supposed to connect to? (Probably ground, but easy to test by seeing what the cabin switch does with those pins it shares with the switch on the relay)

 

Solved! The rear key switch blue wire needs ground. Everything else in the schematic is correct.

 

I know this is an old thread but does anyone have a wiring diagram for the center console switch that I can use? The one I have from the FSM shows only 3 wires going to the switch but when I look at my switch there are 5 wires and I don't know what the other 2 are supposed to be doing. If the blue wire is already ground then that saves me having to cut another wire but I don't know what the "not used" wire goes to. Any tests that I can perform would be helpful. Thanks.

 

I believe the other two wires are for the switch illumination.