1993 toyota rusted front end repair video before and after
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: warren mi
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1993 toyota rusted front end repair video before and after
1993 toyota rusted front end repair video before and after cut a piece of bed frame drilled holes grinded all the old rust out. no more clunking when driving or wheel shaking about 35mph
before http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdW-CmdmgZg
now http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3V3CnhoCaEs
before http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdW-CmdmgZg
now http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3V3CnhoCaEs
#2
Dude are you serious, angle iron, double nuts? triple nuts, using a castle nut as a spacer? were they long smooth shank with little thread area to have to use a spacer, not very safe, grade 8 all threaded bolls even zinc coated are not very much. I hope there high grade bolts and nuts, I doubt it, even a washer is cupped. To do it right wouldn't have cost that much, around 100 for factory cross member from dealer or online and around 40 bucks or less to have someone burn a new cross member in, I bet new cross member would have already would have had the spot welded on nuts on the inside to remount those brackets...I'm sorry but that something I wouldn't have done, but that's just me!!!!
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: warren mi
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i no it aint professional but its holding for now. im on a budget and cant afford a new cross member. the 4 big bolts costed $12 and with lock tight. i have a welder should i weld everything up didnt want to incase this had to come out.
#5
Weld the ends if u want, be careful, go slow and get right temp, no boogger welds! do not weld those brackets to angle iron, but you need to go buy new grade 8 fine thread shorter bolts and self locking nuts and lock washers, get rid of the double/tripple nuts, 1-inch1/4" fine thread bolt, 1-lock washer, and 1-self locking nut for each of the holes to mount brackets.
#6
dude thats scary! angle iron... wow. I am no 2wd expert, but the front bars (with the bushings that go to your control arm) are now putting A TON OF STRESS on your "new front bar"... going over bumps and whatnaught are going to destroy and/or snap off your bolts. Those keep bars keep your tires from going back and forth... its just going to slowly tear this all apart. Please please rethink this. Atleast use thicker metal.
#7
CROSSMEMBER SUB-ASSY, FRAME, FRONT Toyota Part #51201-35240
The part you're inquiring about is called "CROSSMEMBER SUB-ASSY, FRAME, FRONT and should be Toyota Part #51201-35240
You should really inspect the rest of your frame to see how bad it is. From what i see this is a very dangerous situation. Check the bolt mounts of where this front support bolts to and use the above picture to help you determine what you might need. Even if you don't have the money right now it still will be interesting for you to know about what it's going to cost for the parts to fix it correctly. If the rest of your frame is really bad then i would say the truck is probably borderline worth fixing. You really have to think about your safety here, and the others on the road as well. I see you spent a good amount of time fixing it up, however that setup is just as dangerous as the way it was sorry to say, Just being honest.
Not saying you will buy the OEM toyota replacement(s) part needed, but you should still call your local dealer and get a price on the part Toyota Part #51201-35240
The price will vary from $95 to $180, but like i said still inspect your frame and make sure where that part bolts on is not totally gone rusted out. Any questions let me know, I will help out anyway i can.
be safe.
You should really inspect the rest of your frame to see how bad it is. From what i see this is a very dangerous situation. Check the bolt mounts of where this front support bolts to and use the above picture to help you determine what you might need. Even if you don't have the money right now it still will be interesting for you to know about what it's going to cost for the parts to fix it correctly. If the rest of your frame is really bad then i would say the truck is probably borderline worth fixing. You really have to think about your safety here, and the others on the road as well. I see you spent a good amount of time fixing it up, however that setup is just as dangerous as the way it was sorry to say, Just being honest.
Not saying you will buy the OEM toyota replacement(s) part needed, but you should still call your local dealer and get a price on the part Toyota Part #51201-35240
The price will vary from $95 to $180, but like i said still inspect your frame and make sure where that part bolts on is not totally gone rusted out. Any questions let me know, I will help out anyway i can.
be safe.
Trending Topics
#9
Don't get me wrong, I'm not rich and i understand the world we live in. Money is always the issue, still that is too much of a risk imho. Also there is always a chance in law enforcement would get a good look at that, they could deem it an unsafe vehicle and tow it and give a citation.
I love 2wd trucks. I just Hope OP understands just how dangerous and risky that is.
#10
Registered User
its definatly not the best, but its easily fixable. things always get better the second time around.
so now that we know your "design" works. its time to improve it. consider that repair job a protoype. now all we have to do is go full scale with it!
just take off all the hardware thats on there. Go with a thicker more durable angle iron next time. drill all your holes just like you did there. then go get some bolts! you want everything to be the same size, same grade, and same threads and also, you want all the bolts facing the same direction. Like others said go with the grade 8!! if your gonna do it, do it right and pay the extra money to get that peice of mind. once you get your bolts get some nylon lock nuts, or even just lock washers.
then everything is all good to go back together. and maybe even some paint or por-15 will keep it looking good and prevent it from rusting.
and another thing, this is totally optional though. but i coat the threads of every single bolt that goes on both my trucks with "anti-seize". Its one of my pet peeve's. if i dont do it, i cant sleep at night, because i know some way or some how the bolt is gonna rust up, and either sheer off when i dont want it too, or the heads going to break off while im wrenching.
so now that we know your "design" works. its time to improve it. consider that repair job a protoype. now all we have to do is go full scale with it!
just take off all the hardware thats on there. Go with a thicker more durable angle iron next time. drill all your holes just like you did there. then go get some bolts! you want everything to be the same size, same grade, and same threads and also, you want all the bolts facing the same direction. Like others said go with the grade 8!! if your gonna do it, do it right and pay the extra money to get that peice of mind. once you get your bolts get some nylon lock nuts, or even just lock washers.
then everything is all good to go back together. and maybe even some paint or por-15 will keep it looking good and prevent it from rusting.
and another thing, this is totally optional though. but i coat the threads of every single bolt that goes on both my trucks with "anti-seize". Its one of my pet peeve's. if i dont do it, i cant sleep at night, because i know some way or some how the bolt is gonna rust up, and either sheer off when i dont want it too, or the heads going to break off while im wrenching.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
WTB[International]: 93 P/u fuel door lock, roll bar, hitch, chrome rear bumper
Gamble_STi
Items Wanted
0
06-27-2015 07:54 PM
YotaGreenhorn
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
3
06-27-2015 07:00 AM