1991 pickup 4x4 vibration
#1
1991 pickup 4x4 vibration
Hi. My truck vibrate between 35 and 65 mph. I have new tires ball joints idler arm pitman arm and tie rod ends with an alignment. What else could be causing the vibration?
#2
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Lots of things. (Universal joints come to mind right away.)
Find a hwy with a gentle hill down. Get it to vibrating, then take your foot off the gas. Difference? Shift into neutral. Difference? Does the vibration change with engine speed? Road speed? Is it different uphill v. downhill?
Find a hwy with a gentle hill down. Get it to vibrating, then take your foot off the gas. Difference? Shift into neutral. Difference? Does the vibration change with engine speed? Road speed? Is it different uphill v. downhill?
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Jpl00311 (12-20-2021)
#5
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Does it look like a bearing? In the center of the propeller (drive) shaft? http://web.archive.org/web/201204171.../3propelle.pdf
It should have (basically) no play.
OEM: https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/T...723035070.html
Discount OEM: Chinese replacement: https://www.ebay.com/itm/252862047091
Pay your money and take your chances.
Read all the way through the manual before you start. With match marks and special service tools, it's not trivial. But you can do it.
It should have (basically) no play.
OEM: https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/T...723035070.html
Discount OEM: Chinese replacement: https://www.ebay.com/itm/252862047091
Pay your money and take your chances.
Read all the way through the manual before you start. With match marks and special service tools, it's not trivial. But you can do it.
Last edited by scope103; 12-10-2021 at 02:09 PM.
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Jpl00311 (12-11-2021)
#6
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I just replaced this on my pickup. It's a long bed, and has that center support bearing.
I don't mean to be an argumentative jerk, but yeah, that bearing has slop to it, in a way. Where the driveshaft goes through it, it's mounted in that rubber thing that's around the center area, but inside the outer metal piece.The rubber allows the drive shaft to move around a bit. It's pretty firm, the rubber is, but it does allow a slight movement. I checked mine when I got my new one (OEM btw) in by grabbing hold of the drive shaft and giving it a good yank or two, so I speak from experience.
I replaced it when I was under there to lube the chassis, and noticed the rubber sticking out in one place from the outer metal shell. The drive shaft moved real easy when it was like that, but in the new one did allow a small movement of the drive shaft with some real OOOMPH from me. I guess not when I am driving, cause it drives smooth as silk.
BTW: Look at the flanges that stick out of the outer metal shell. Note that they have a notch on one side, and a kind of dip, or small indent on the other. It matters which way all that is oriented when installed on th driveshaft. I can't recall off the top of my head if the cut out is supposed to be facing the front of the truck, or the back, but it matters for mounting it up into the truck. I had to look it up on the computer, but it showed clearly which way is forward.
I just checked the FSM, it specifies that the cutout face the rear of the vehicle.
Good luck!
Pat☺
I don't mean to be an argumentative jerk, but yeah, that bearing has slop to it, in a way. Where the driveshaft goes through it, it's mounted in that rubber thing that's around the center area, but inside the outer metal piece.The rubber allows the drive shaft to move around a bit. It's pretty firm, the rubber is, but it does allow a slight movement. I checked mine when I got my new one (OEM btw) in by grabbing hold of the drive shaft and giving it a good yank or two, so I speak from experience.
I replaced it when I was under there to lube the chassis, and noticed the rubber sticking out in one place from the outer metal shell. The drive shaft moved real easy when it was like that, but in the new one did allow a small movement of the drive shaft with some real OOOMPH from me. I guess not when I am driving, cause it drives smooth as silk.
BTW: Look at the flanges that stick out of the outer metal shell. Note that they have a notch on one side, and a kind of dip, or small indent on the other. It matters which way all that is oriented when installed on th driveshaft. I can't recall off the top of my head if the cut out is supposed to be facing the front of the truck, or the back, but it matters for mounting it up into the truck. I had to look it up on the computer, but it showed clearly which way is forward.
I just checked the FSM, it specifies that the cutout face the rear of the vehicle.
Good luck!
Pat☺
#7
YT Community Team
I’d ask to have the wheel balance rechecked. 4wd tires are notoriously hard to balance because of the tall profile/sidewall. If you see a ton of weight on the rim you know they had a hard time with it.
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Jpl00311 (12-20-2021)
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#9
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To verify it's a driveshaft issue I would recommend that you remove the rear driveshaft and take a test drive in 4x4. if your vibration is gone then you are on the right track.
Another tech tip, when troubleshooting a vibration start with your assometer.
does the steering wheel shimmy or do you feel the vibration through the seat?
If the steering wheel shakes your vibration is most likely in the front of the vehicle (MOST likely).
If you feel the vibration through the seat it's MOST likely in the rear of the vehicle.
You could still have a problem from BOTH ends of the vehicle.
I have found issues in the past with "cold flat spots" in the tires. These are from sitting (especially in cold weather) and won't allow for proper balancing of the tire/wheel unless driven for 5-10 miles first to build some heat in the tires and make them more pliable (and go back to being round).
If your tires are balanced with a cold flat spot they will be out of balance when they warm back up.
All this being said, you can also have tires (even new) that are not truely round or that the tread wobbles side to side when spinning.
Toyotas are light trucks and are more susceptable to vibrations than heavier trucks.
#10
Registered User
That's what clued me in when I found mine being bad. No vibrations, or anything else like that. Just a piece of the rubber sticking out of the casing.
If you have it done, make sure you ask to see the bearing mounted on the driveshaft. A lot of places don't know about the notch orientation's importance, and just put it on backwards. IE facing the front of the vehicle, not the rear. It must face the rear of the vehicle, according to the FSM. I had a small discussion with the guy that did mine. I had to call it up on my lovely wife's cell phone to prove it to him. I don't bother with carrying a phone myself.
The carrier bearing actually won't mount to the truck correctly if the notches aren't oriented correctly.
Good luck!
Pat☺
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Jpl00311 (12-20-2021)
#11
YT Community Team
Akwheeler gave solid info. May, or may not solve your issue, but the info is dead on.
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Jpl00311 (12-20-2021)
#12
Ok I changed the carrier bearing and that solved most of the problem. Now I have a shake I can feel when accelerating. I can feel it the most when truck goes into overdrive. I'm guessing I couldn't notice before because the other vibration was so violent.
#13
Registered User
U-joints going bad?
Pretty easy to check. Grab the drive shaft near them and try like crazy to shake them up and down, and side to side. ANY sign of free-play, they're bad. Or getting that way. Replace them, or have them replaced. It's much easier to replace a u-joint if you have a hydraulic press, believe me. I did the ones on my pickup 3 times now. About every 100,000 miles. We had a killer outfitted garage out at my work, and some really good mechanics that helped me a lot. The hydraulic press was a lifesaver. Great for bearings too.
Good luck, whatever you find
Pat☺
Pretty easy to check. Grab the drive shaft near them and try like crazy to shake them up and down, and side to side. ANY sign of free-play, they're bad. Or getting that way. Replace them, or have them replaced. It's much easier to replace a u-joint if you have a hydraulic press, believe me. I did the ones on my pickup 3 times now. About every 100,000 miles. We had a killer outfitted garage out at my work, and some really good mechanics that helped me a lot. The hydraulic press was a lifesaver. Great for bearings too.
Good luck, whatever you find
Pat☺
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