RedYota91

Just to confirm, is stock timing 10 degrees? Thats what I have found so far, but I just want to make sure!

RedYota91

So we replaced the coolant, got it all topped off and we are still unable to get the heat to blow inside. Its not overheating or anything. I think we'll let it cool, fill her back up and see if that will do it. I filled the engine first (the hose on the top of the radiator) and then topped off the radiator. Any other input?

We got a timing light from a friend and it didnt work. But on the good side of things, its warmed up and idling at a smoooooooth 600 rpms. Sounds like butta'!

xxxtreme22r

I don't know if those 3.0's are set up like the 22r's but, did you run the engine with the heater on and with the rad cap removed to burp it? I know the heater has to be on to get the flow of coolant through the heater core.

I am pretty sure you had heat before the tear down? If so checking to make sure the heater control valve is actually opening is probably a mute point.

RedYota91

So after we brought it up to operating temp while idling, it still wasnt blowing hot, but wasnt overheating. So we decided to take it out and drive it to see if the added load would help get things moving. It did. I did have the cap off when it was sitting and it burped but whatev, all is good now!

Just a few pics!! First time out of the garage! Hell, first time with the hood shut in almost 2 months!!


Next to my truck




Thanks again for everything!

92 TOY

awesome bud......nice truck too.

MudHippy

I've always hooked mine up right at the distributor on the #1 wire. It's never caused me any issues doing it like that. Works just fine, and makes things much easier.

Yep, 10° with the check connectors jumped. 8° when not.

Oooh, that's way too low. Idle rpm is supposed to be 800 +/- 50.

A moot point, you mean. Nobody'd be able to hear it if was a mute.

Sorry, had to.

92 TOY

sooooooooo.....how's it going?

what would you estimate your final cost at......?

RedYota91

Last I heard from my brother, its running like a champ. AND on top of that, its handling the early snow 'storm' that we are getting up here in the NW. He did another oil change and topped off the coolant.

Off hand, I can only really guess what the total is as I havent really added everything up. I spent probably $950 for the Toyota parts and from the junk yard. About $120 for the injector servicing. $600 for the head work/valve job. Then you could probably throw in another $60 for coolant and oil. Id say that we probably spent an extra $100 in misc tools and such. ROUGH grand total of $1830. OUCH! What really killed the job was the valve work. That came out of left field. We originally were quoted $150 for the head cleaning, inspection, etc. I can only guess what this wouldve cost at a local shop if they did all the work that we completed. The shop we normally visit wanted $1500 and Toyota said $2000, both just being for the head gasket.. Anything else would add on top.

92 TOY

ouch!

GO_BLUE!

hey I enjoyed reading your head gasket story....

Mine is a Cardinal Red '92 3vze with 120K on the odometer and it has been 10+ years since the headgasket was replaced per factory recall.

So I expect I'll need to replace the head gaskets sometime in the next couple of years.

Reading your story and the other stories on here make me feel more confident that I can do it myself.

Congrats on the work and I hope your lil brother appreciates it too. I know he's having fun in the snow right now!

-Tom

RedYota91

Thanks! I honestly believe, knowing what I know now, I couldve done this work in a fraction of the time. But I tell ya, the best part was knowing that this vehicle wasnt on a deadline.. It didnt have to be done Monday so that allowed for less stress and more focus on just doing it right. On top of all that, it was fun to just learn and get this in depth into an engine. I would not hesitate to flex my wrenchin' skill again.. Hopefully just at a little later date!

RedYota91

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr! My brother was just heading home tonight and called me... His check engine light is on! He said the oil pressure is fine, its not overheating and the truck is running fine. I do know that his exhaust is a heap-o-rust and Im hoping that there is some O2 sensor that is just in need of replacement. So.. I did some quick searching but havent gotten a good answer. What flashes/how do you check what the code is? Is it the check engine light itself? Input appreciated!

Wrenchinjoe

There is a "Diagnostics" box next to the fuse pannel in the engine compartment. Jump the T1 and TE1 terminals with a paper clip, turn the key to run (not start) and count the flashes of the CEL. It will flash some number of times, pause briefly then flash more. Then it will pause longer and start over. 5 flashes, small pause, followed by 2 flashes, followed by a longer pause = code 52.

RedYota91

Perfect, thanks! He did pull over, shut it off, start it back up and didnt have the CEL anymore. Hmmm

RedYota91

And as of today, he hasnt had it light up again. We did take the truck up in the hills and cut a Christmas tree down. It was its first big run up in the snow and did quite well!

92 TOY

hey RED.....you still around???

I stole this pic from ya and drew on it.

surfing the internet I get alot of conflicting (OK, not really) info on the timing components.

almost pulled the trigger on a complete timing set from ROCKAUTO but then noticed a difference in the configuration of the water "?OUTLET" area that attaches at the top.

so i emailed TRDPARTS4U to see if they could give me a price. you ordered from them, I've ordered from them and fully intend on ordering from them again.

again, when I go on TOYOTA specific sites, it's like as if the 3vze engine never existed for 1988.....i get 4cylinder and in-line V6 (landcruiser!!!!!...why is that listed there?) as engines on all the sites...so it's very frustrating.

anyway....hopefully will get a reply so i can get a clue as far as $$$$$$ goes.

here's your pic I vandalized. yellow circled stuff is stuff i want prices on.



here's what I almost ordered from ROCK (notice the difference)....$101.79



and here's a different on from ROCK that does NOT include the tensioner spring (GATES Brand).....$90.99



and the CLOYES Brand from ROCK ($110.79)



I'm going to post all this on Joe's Build thread also.

EDIT----->>>>> I guess those must be file photos.....probably not of the actual parts for those last 2. so this is even more frustrating now.

Wrenchinjoe

92Toy,

I think I see what you are referring to. The water outlet that is integrated into the #2 idler pulley appears to have a different shape in Red's photo from the first Rock products photo you show.

Red's photo shows the part from the front where the mating piece that accepts the radiator hose bolts on. The first Rock photo shows the same part but from the rear where it bolts onto the intake manifold.

You should be ok purchasing any of those kits you show photos for SO LONG AS your engine uses the spring tensioner, not the hydraulic tensioner. Your VIN can clarify that if you are unsure.

92 TOY

wow....that was sooooooo simple and i blew it.

good eye on the pic being from the reverse angle......makes me feel a whole lot better now.

ahhhh....i'm back in business then.

bluidvl

FYI- I'm doing a head gasket job on an 89' 3.0 and went ahead and rolled the dice on the Gates Timing Set off ebay ($150 bucks for tensioner, idler, H2O pump, and T belt). It should be in by this weekend and I'll post up what they sent. I emailed them to confirm that this was indeed the kit for my truck and they seemed quite confident. I ordered my bolts and gaskets from engnbldr. I'm curious to see what his 10.9 grade head bolts are like.

HappyAdventure

Wrenchinjoe - how do you look up if an engine has a spring or hydraulic tensioner via the VIN. Call the dealer? by year?