1990 4runner pulls to left and shudders while braking
#1
1990 4runner pulls to left and shudders while braking
i have a 1990 4runner 3vze v6 engine auto and when i come to a stop no matter if its a hard or soft stop it pulls pretty hard to the left shakes the steering wheel and vibrates.
is this a bad caliper on the right?
bad rotors?
is this a bad caliper on the right?
bad rotors?
#3
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That or a clog in the line.. but yea.. something on that side is creating unequal brake pressure.
Is there rubbing? Does the bad side brake drag? you can check that by driving for a couple miles and get out, if that side is noticibly hotter then the other; it could be dragging already.
The shaking, is it a vibration or your steering shakes? The reason I ask, a dragging brake will often overheat your rotor, causing warping.. which you feel if bad enough when you stop. Also tends to create an uneven brake.
Checks:
Check your caliper..
flush your lines, in particular that side.
Is there rubbing? Does the bad side brake drag? you can check that by driving for a couple miles and get out, if that side is noticibly hotter then the other; it could be dragging already.
The shaking, is it a vibration or your steering shakes? The reason I ask, a dragging brake will often overheat your rotor, causing warping.. which you feel if bad enough when you stop. Also tends to create an uneven brake.
Checks:
Check your caliper..
flush your lines, in particular that side.
#5
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Yes the shudder could be due to the rotor, and may contribute to some pull depending on how bad it is..But the most likely cause of the pull are seized pistons in the caliper
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I would agree. The steering shake is probably caused by the fact that 1 wheel is SLOWING down considerably faster then the other and they are "yelling" at each other, your getting the splash anger up your to the steering wheel. Id watch out, that model is notorious for weak steering linkage, free recall in effect actually. After you fix this, take it in and have toyota check out your steering.
So, yea, id have to agree on either a stuck/siezed caliper. Easy enough to fix. You should have your rotor turned while you do it. Autozone and the like will do it for either free, or cheap. Assuming you havent ruined it.. then buy a new one.
So, yea, id have to agree on either a stuck/siezed caliper. Easy enough to fix. You should have your rotor turned while you do it. Autozone and the like will do it for either free, or cheap. Assuming you havent ruined it.. then buy a new one.
#7
so whats the precedure on the brakes (inspecting/repairing) on these im not by any means a mechanic but with instructions i can do almost anything
also would this just be the front brakes? should i take it to les shwab and have them do a free brake check so i know what is wrong?
also would this just be the front brakes? should i take it to les shwab and have them do a free brake check so i know what is wrong?
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#8
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Vibrations:
warped rotor, loose/worn wheel bearings, out-of-round rear brake drum or warped rear disc (in case of rear disc brakes), out of round or poorly balanced tires, loose steering components combined with poor alignment settings.
Pull to the left:
contaminated brake pads on the left, loose/worn wheel bearings on the left, severely warped rotor on the left front, stuck caliper or sliders on the right front causing the right front brake to not apply properly, worn ball joints or tie-rod end on the left, right-rear brake cylinder siezed or contaminated linings (braking circuits are split front left/rear right, front right/rear left), air in the right front/left rear brake lines or that circuit in the master cylinder, improper camber/caster settings.
warped rotor, loose/worn wheel bearings, out-of-round rear brake drum or warped rear disc (in case of rear disc brakes), out of round or poorly balanced tires, loose steering components combined with poor alignment settings.
Pull to the left:
contaminated brake pads on the left, loose/worn wheel bearings on the left, severely warped rotor on the left front, stuck caliper or sliders on the right front causing the right front brake to not apply properly, worn ball joints or tie-rod end on the left, right-rear brake cylinder siezed or contaminated linings (braking circuits are split front left/rear right, front right/rear left), air in the right front/left rear brake lines or that circuit in the master cylinder, improper camber/caster settings.
Last edited by abecedarian; 04-09-2008 at 10:51 PM.
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If you feel nervous, of course have someone check it.. even better if free.
There are things you can do, go buy a service manual like a chiltons or something.., they have step by step vehicle specific instructions. Its not that hard, it just usually involves time and getting dirty.
There are things you can do, go buy a service manual like a chiltons or something.., they have step by step vehicle specific instructions. Its not that hard, it just usually involves time and getting dirty.
#10
i have done plenty of mechanical things before i have actually pulled one of these motors and done lots of other odds and end things just havent done any brakes yet odd?
ya les schwab is offering free brake checks so i might take it there tomorrow have them tell me whats wrong. buy the parts and do it myself hehe
ya les schwab is offering free brake checks so i might take it there tomorrow have them tell me whats wrong. buy the parts and do it myself hehe
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there you GO!
well your lucky. The week after I bought my first runner, the entire brake system went out. Ruptured a brake line. I learned how to do a complete rebuild of all my brake lines and system from scratch. Ihave the say, the only hard part was LEARNING how the hell to properly cut and flair brake lining. There is a very specific way to do it, any other and its unsafe. I got it, after going through about 10 feet of practive brake tubing.
So yea, its not hard.. just time consuming. Take this opp. to get to know your vehicle.
well your lucky. The week after I bought my first runner, the entire brake system went out. Ruptured a brake line. I learned how to do a complete rebuild of all my brake lines and system from scratch. Ihave the say, the only hard part was LEARNING how the hell to properly cut and flair brake lining. There is a very specific way to do it, any other and its unsafe. I got it, after going through about 10 feet of practive brake tubing.
So yea, its not hard.. just time consuming. Take this opp. to get to know your vehicle.
#13
so today i went out and drove the 4runner and now its seems as tho the brakes are alot better its not shaking anymore of pulling hard to the left still a little but not that bad. however it seems like there isnt that much pressure behind the pedal its pushs to the floor fairly easily
#14
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so whats the precedure on the brakes (inspecting/repairing) on these im not by any means a mechanic but with instructions i can do almost anything
also would this just be the front brakes? should i take it to les shwab and have them do a free brake check so i know what is wrong?
also would this just be the front brakes? should i take it to les shwab and have them do a free brake check so i know what is wrong?
Check out your fluid level. One of your calipers/brakelines could be leaking, also check the rear brakes and see if there is any evidence of a leak back there. Brake fluid can cause major problems with drum brakes and if it's pulling even when you aren't hitting the brakes that could be a good indication. When the fluid is getting close to gone it will be less noticeable, atleast it was in my FJ60.
Last edited by Luvmeye22re; 04-10-2008 at 09:44 PM.
#15
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Ick! Brake pedal going straight to floor, thats not good. If its a drastic change from a day ago, your probably loosing fluid somewhere. I would be very careful about driving it anywhere at this point. Your entire brake system, A.k.A your life seems in question.
I ruptured a brake line, had a weak spot and lost all of my brake fluid in the 6 miles I had to drive it home.. with me granny driving and costing as much as possible rather than braking.
Also, your master cylinder could have gone.. it helps build pressure.
Turn your truck on, grab a friend and have him pump the hell out of your brakes with it in park. Look to see if fluid is squirting/dripping from somewhere.
I ruptured a brake line, had a weak spot and lost all of my brake fluid in the 6 miles I had to drive it home.. with me granny driving and costing as much as possible rather than braking.
Also, your master cylinder could have gone.. it helps build pressure.
Turn your truck on, grab a friend and have him pump the hell out of your brakes with it in park. Look to see if fluid is squirting/dripping from somewhere.
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