Just_ Rollin'

Check the page I linked to. Valve cover has nothing to do with the timing belt job. On the water pump some people use just gasket and some use just sealant or both. I used both. Let the sealant set for a day if you can before you run it.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

That sounds like a partially clogged radiator. Flushing doesn;t work all the time....a new radiator is the way to go.

evan1395

So I am about to do the water pump tomorrow. Is there anything I need to know before attempting the job? Remove fan shroud, radiator, clutch fan then the pump, correct? Where does the O Ring go again that came with the new pump? What size nut holds on the clutch fan? Anything large or abnormal?

Cdsbigsby

I know you can do a timing chain replacement with only 10, 12, and 14mm sockets (not counting the 3/4" for the crank pulley). If I remember right the clutch fan is 10mm bolts, I think the water pump has 10 and 12 on it because a couple of the bolts run through and hold the timing chain cover on. Fitted gasket goes into groove on back of water pump.

Be careful of overtightening the new bolts, I broke one off in mine.

evan1395

Ok. But the removal process I described is spot on? Im realllly hoping.it is the water pump that is causing it to overheat. There isnt much else I can do after this.
Verrrry Stupid question, I know. But which way does the thermostat go in? Hahahha.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Easy way to check the water pump. Remove the upper radiator hose and run the engine, you should get flow when the thermostat opens.

evan1395

Im a little afraid to start it back up with that grinding metal sound and traces of smoke. What i THINK is a bad bearing/turbine in the water pump. If it.means anything, when it was running.prior to the noise starting, the top hose was firm and filled with hot water. What does that tell me? Is the pump working?

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

That means the pump is working. Have you checked your belts and pulleys? What kind of smoke? And where was it coming from?

evan1395

If the pump is working, why couldnt I visibly see the water moving through the radiator when the cap was off?
The smoke was coming from behind the plastic cam gear cover. The noise was coming from what I thought was the water pump.e

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Some radiators you can see it and some you can't. Depends where the cap is in relation to the inlet. Have you popped the timing cover off? Maybe the timing belt slid off the pulley and hitting something. Did the smoke smell like rubber burning?

evan1395

I have not pulled the timing cover off. Is this the plastic "cam gear cover" I was referring to? The smoke didnt really have a smell, just a hot musty burning smell.
How tedious is it to locate the timing cover and inspect the belt? Sorry man, im not to familiar with these 3.0's, bare with me.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Yea the timing cover is the plastic cover. I'm no help I've never messed with one. I pulled the entire engine and got rid it it lol

evan1395

Well lets hope its just a few bolts. If its NOT a bad water pump, I have nooo effing clue what to try next

nothingbetter

before you change the water pump, pull off the timing over and figure out where that smoke came from. If it turns out to be the WP you're set, but if its something different you can still return the WP.

evan1395

Im not one to give up on a job, but after removing radiator, fan shroud, fan, plastic timing cover AND Metal timing cover, I saw just how involved this job is. I was unaware that the water pump was tied into the timing setup. Me not knowing these 3.0's too well, I had nooo idea how to take the tension off the belt and remove it to get the water pump out. Unfortunately I reassembled and told the guy this is out of my hands and it needs to be taken to a shop. Luckily my buddy owns a shop and im gonna setup an appointment for him and make sure this gets fixed.
I figured even IF I did get the belt off and swap the pumps out, you then need to time the engine when putting the belt back on, is this correct?


NothingBetter, it is still hard to say exactly where the smoke was coming from. But with the grinding metal bearing sound and water NOT circulating through the radiator, I'm almost positive it is a faulty pump.

evan1395

So im gonna go back and give it another go at it. The only thing that discouraged me before was taking the timing belt off. I got a diagram from mechanic buddy. The tensioner pulley is the smaller one on the left with the high tension spring attached to it, right? The cam gears should have marks on them correct? I basically just mark the teeth in relation to the belt position before taking it off? I was told these 3.0's are NON Interference engines, what exactly does that mean?

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Non inference engines are where if the timing belt/chain breaks the valves will not hit the pistons.

evan1395

As for the timing belt tensioner pulley, do you just rotate it clockwise, much like a tensioner pulley for a serpentine belt? Where are the marks on the cam gears for the belt? I basically just position the belt BACK on exactly how I took it off?

Just_ Rollin'

The cam gears have little triangles and you want them point at 0 degrees, or straight up. The camshaft has a little circular mark on the front of the gear down there. What you want to do is line up the timing belt marks with the camshaft gears pointing straight up and line up the timing belt mark with the dot on the camshaft gear. However, make sure you do this and keep it under tension somehow while you install the rest. I put a block of wood under the tensioner pulley to act as temporary tension while I installed the rest of the stuff before finally doing the hydraulic tensioner. Otherwise, the belt may move when you put tension on it from the tensioner. I suppose you could also zip tie the belt to another part of the belt to make sure it is taught. Key word here is taught/tension. I had it all done myself and then the belt moved before I discovered my wooden block trick.

evan1395

So ill just make marks on the belt that correspond with the triangular marks on the cam gears, and the dot on the camshaft pulley?
I was reading this thread...http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=72480.0

And the guy removes the crankshaft pulley in order to remove the LOWER timing cover. Is this necessary to remove the water pump?
Which is the hydraulic tensioner? I see the one on the left side of the timing setup, but it has a spring and bolt to keep it in place. Pictures 19 and 20. Is this the hydraulic tensioner?