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1989 22RE turns over, spark but won't start
#22
As a secondary vehicle, I try to spend a little time on each of my day's off working on this issue. The warmer weather also helps...
I checked all my grounds and used a pair of jumper cables as added grounds, to no avail.
I have (now and in the past) put the "best" (most expensive) parts that NAPA had to offer: brass connections on the cap and rotor, good plugs, no rust. All the seats for the plugs were nice and shiny.
So far my starting-to-get-educated opinion on the issue is this:
Somehow the coil is firing the spark at the wrong time. Now before I throw more parts at this truck has anyone had issues with the ignitor? (little flat black module with a bunch of colored wires that in my truck is bolted to the top of the coil)
My mechanic friend says that I should try advancing the distributor, but it has worked great for 200k+ miles right where it was.
Is it possible that the little magnetic switch inside the distributor has failed?
Sorry for so many questions. Seems like since so many of these trucks are on the road this can't be a unique issue.
I checked all my grounds and used a pair of jumper cables as added grounds, to no avail.
I have (now and in the past) put the "best" (most expensive) parts that NAPA had to offer: brass connections on the cap and rotor, good plugs, no rust. All the seats for the plugs were nice and shiny.
So far my starting-to-get-educated opinion on the issue is this:
Somehow the coil is firing the spark at the wrong time. Now before I throw more parts at this truck has anyone had issues with the ignitor? (little flat black module with a bunch of colored wires that in my truck is bolted to the top of the coil)
My mechanic friend says that I should try advancing the distributor, but it has worked great for 200k+ miles right where it was.
Is it possible that the little magnetic switch inside the distributor has failed?
Sorry for so many questions. Seems like since so many of these trucks are on the road this can't be a unique issue.
Last edited by vonscorpio; 01-30-2013 at 02:02 PM. Reason: Grammar
#23
Yes a failed NE sensor will prevent spark. But you said you had spark.
The igniter and coil tests are pretty easy and straight forward.
Verify the coil and igniter are in spec. Verify the distrubutor rotor is in the vicinity of the spark plug pickup. Verify the injectors function and the fuel pressure isn't too low. Pull the valve cover and verify the timing chain didn't jump a tooth.
Timing is part of a tune up for a reason, it changes over time due to friction wear and fatigue in the wiring. He's not crazy, basicly. It can't hurt to try, just put matchmarks and see what happens worse case you put it back where it started and move to the next test.
The igniter and coil tests are pretty easy and straight forward.
Verify the coil and igniter are in spec. Verify the distrubutor rotor is in the vicinity of the spark plug pickup. Verify the injectors function and the fuel pressure isn't too low. Pull the valve cover and verify the timing chain didn't jump a tooth.
My mechanic friend says that I should try advancing the distributor, but it has worked great for 200k+ miles right where it was.
#25
Back again on my day off. Checked out all the grounds. Shiny contacts all around.
I have to say jumping time seems to be the only logical possibility at this point although the details of that confuse me... Somehow I would think there would be a backfire?
So, as a novice to timing chain issues, what is the best way to go about this?
And what tools will make this as painless as possible? Timing light?
The truck is parked on the side of the road in a community that has a vigilant HOA.
Any obvious work will need to be completed in one day or at least made to look like its done.
P.S.
I am guessing that I should replace the chain and guides while I'm in there. Just curious if there is a brand of chain/parts this forum would recommend? AND is it advisable to replace the water and oil pumps at the same time? I see these parts sold in kits.
I have to say jumping time seems to be the only logical possibility at this point although the details of that confuse me... Somehow I would think there would be a backfire?
So, as a novice to timing chain issues, what is the best way to go about this?
And what tools will make this as painless as possible? Timing light?
The truck is parked on the side of the road in a community that has a vigilant HOA.
Any obvious work will need to be completed in one day or at least made to look like its done.
P.S.
I am guessing that I should replace the chain and guides while I'm in there. Just curious if there is a brand of chain/parts this forum would recommend? AND is it advisable to replace the water and oil pumps at the same time? I see these parts sold in kits.
Last edited by vonscorpio; 02-08-2013 at 08:49 PM. Reason: Post script
#26
im sorta having the same problem, but mine is not getting any fuel to the rail, i can run a hot wire to the battery and fuel pump,and it shoots fuel to the rail, but will not spray from my cold start injector at all.. is it possible i can drill a tiny hole in the CSI and it help?
#27
Ok, back again after a few months of letting that truck sit. Had to tow it out of the area due to the HOA, but now that weather is better time to address the issue.
I have come to the conclusion that the timing chain has slipped.
I have found several helpful walk-through's showing how to do the work.
What I seek now is what parts are recommended? (right down to the gaskets) and is it advisable to order the original parts from Toyota (~$600) or aftermarket (~$200)? And if aftermarket which brand is the one that will keep me from having to go through this again for at least another 200k miles?
I have come to the conclusion that the timing chain has slipped.
I have found several helpful walk-through's showing how to do the work.
What I seek now is what parts are recommended? (right down to the gaskets) and is it advisable to order the original parts from Toyota (~$600) or aftermarket (~$200)? And if aftermarket which brand is the one that will keep me from having to go through this again for at least another 200k miles?
#29
Hi james970452000, sorry I don't have much advice on what might be wrong.
Turns out the timing chain on my engine had slipped, as others in this forum suggested and in spite of only moving one or two teeth, still managed to bend at least one valve. The 22RE is an interference engine, sadly.
All of this can be tested and verified simply by using a timing light. (the timing that is, not the valves)
Coupled with a starter which failed during the timing chain operation (unrelated causes), the overall unmaintained condition of the rest of the vehicle and ugly cosmetics, I was done pouring time and money into this project and I sold it for a little more than scrap price. You might even say I just gave up. I decision I somewhat regret now.
Turns out the timing chain on my engine had slipped, as others in this forum suggested and in spite of only moving one or two teeth, still managed to bend at least one valve. The 22RE is an interference engine, sadly.
All of this can be tested and verified simply by using a timing light. (the timing that is, not the valves)
Coupled with a starter which failed during the timing chain operation (unrelated causes), the overall unmaintained condition of the rest of the vehicle and ugly cosmetics, I was done pouring time and money into this project and I sold it for a little more than scrap price. You might even say I just gave up. I decision I somewhat regret now.
Last edited by vonscorpio; 06-01-2015 at 08:40 AM. Reason: Clairity
#30
Engnbldr.com or LCE performance has the timing chains kitsor you can go OEM or with local parts store. If you go with a local dealer or parts store then look into getting steel guide rails, they will be the most help with a new chain kit and LCE and engineBuilder has the hits and so does Marlincrawler.I suggest either of those 3 just mentioned!!!!!!
#31
#32
Sounds like a cold start injector stuck open or wrong pigtail attached to it
sounds like a flooding cold start injector, could also be a temp sensor is having issues. What component test have you done?
#33
My other engine was hard starting, so I replaced it last week with my spare engine. Hard starting was not reason for engine swap but the swapped engine is also hard starting. Whatever the starting issue is its with the truck,,,wiring? I guess I could put my spare ECU in, see if that makes a difference?
once started it runs fine and continues to start easily once warmed up.
once started it runs fine and continues to start easily once warmed up.
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