1987 Toyota Truck Advice
08-10-2021, 06:37 PM
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1987 Toyota Truck Advice
Hi everyone,
I am in the works of going to look at a 1987 Toyota Truck for sale. Some of the details I know right now are that it's 4x4, manual, and has low miles. I am curious what things I should be looking out for when I go and inspect the truck? Also what is a good price for a truck this year that has the qualities stated above? Thanks!
I am in the works of going to look at a 1987 Toyota Truck for sale. Some of the details I know right now are that it's 4x4, manual, and has low miles. I am curious what things I should be looking out for when I go and inspect the truck? Also what is a good price for a truck this year that has the qualities stated above? Thanks!
08-10-2021, 07:08 PM
#2
It seems down south the interiors fade quite a bit, and the passenger dash pad is almost always cracked. Replacement pads are expensive (I've sold a couple, $300+). Of course rust is a concern, atleast for my area the stock boxes don't exist on the trucks here because of rust. If it has the 4 cyl, listen carefully for a timing chain slap noise, it's a common issue that's overlooked on them and can cause more damage if not fixed. Besides that, remember interior parts are expensive to replace (everything is like $20+ per item, it adds up fast). Overall it's pretty much like any other vehicle, look for issues, ask for maintenance logs (nice bonus to know what's been replaced when), check tires, test drive it, listen for odd noises, etc.
The 4x4 is very simple on these trucks, so not too much to go wrong. The biggest killer of them in my area is clearly rust, second worst is hack job wiring jobs. Check under the hood and under the rear of the truck, two most common area's I've found for hack job work. The taillights are almost always messed up from people trying to wire in a trailer light kid the old school way, but it doesn't work with these trucks, have to have a box to convert the signals (pretty cheap, Curt seems to make a pretty good one and it's plug and play, no cutting wires).
If it's a 3.0L (not sure if they were even offered in 87, might have been 88 they started), they are somewhat known for blown headgaskets. It's not like a cavalier though, they blow not very often, a guy I know and his friend got 2 different 4runners with the 3.0L and both had head gaskets done at 300k miles, and both trucks where 500k+ miles when they were buying them. I know the one lasted 700k+ before it was scrapped, the other I don't recall how far he said he got before it was done. Might be a "3.slow" but they are reliable, same story for the 22r/22re. Talking about the r vs re, the r = carb, re = fuel injection. Everyone has their own opinion, but I'd say the EFI one would be the better pick, it has more power stock, better throttle responce, and if there's issues, generally the computer has a code to give you. The carb ones are simpler, but you'd need to know mechanics to really take advage of it.
Back on the subject of rust, these trucks have a boxed in frame, so they tend to have more rust problems long term than more open frame designs (like a C channel frame that most domestic trucks run in this era). The boxed in frame design is very strong, just the rust is the only issue to deal with.
Prices change wildly based on location, I have a 2wd 86 in fair to good shape with a couple small issues I'd love to get $1000 for (basically my money back out of it). It's an AZ truck though, faded interior, wiring is getting brittle (insulation coming apart at connectors, so bare wire + salt on roads = electrical problems). It has the stock box though, so that's pretty rare here lol.
Anyway, good luck with the truck.
The 4x4 is very simple on these trucks, so not too much to go wrong. The biggest killer of them in my area is clearly rust, second worst is hack job wiring jobs. Check under the hood and under the rear of the truck, two most common area's I've found for hack job work. The taillights are almost always messed up from people trying to wire in a trailer light kid the old school way, but it doesn't work with these trucks, have to have a box to convert the signals (pretty cheap, Curt seems to make a pretty good one and it's plug and play, no cutting wires).
If it's a 3.0L (not sure if they were even offered in 87, might have been 88 they started), they are somewhat known for blown headgaskets. It's not like a cavalier though, they blow not very often, a guy I know and his friend got 2 different 4runners with the 3.0L and both had head gaskets done at 300k miles, and both trucks where 500k+ miles when they were buying them. I know the one lasted 700k+ before it was scrapped, the other I don't recall how far he said he got before it was done. Might be a "3.slow" but they are reliable, same story for the 22r/22re. Talking about the r vs re, the r = carb, re = fuel injection. Everyone has their own opinion, but I'd say the EFI one would be the better pick, it has more power stock, better throttle responce, and if there's issues, generally the computer has a code to give you. The carb ones are simpler, but you'd need to know mechanics to really take advage of it.
Back on the subject of rust, these trucks have a boxed in frame, so they tend to have more rust problems long term than more open frame designs (like a C channel frame that most domestic trucks run in this era). The boxed in frame design is very strong, just the rust is the only issue to deal with.
Prices change wildly based on location, I have a 2wd 86 in fair to good shape with a couple small issues I'd love to get $1000 for (basically my money back out of it). It's an AZ truck though, faded interior, wiring is getting brittle (insulation coming apart at connectors, so bare wire + salt on roads = electrical problems). It has the stock box though, so that's pretty rare here lol.
Anyway, good luck with the truck.
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Damion812 (08-11-2021)
08-10-2021, 07:38 PM
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Thanks for the response, I have a couple of questions. So if I end up finding rust on the frame, is that something I should turn from right away? I'm assuming fixing rust issue can vary in cost, but aren't on the cheaper side of things. However, say everything turns out good, do you think $5,000 is a good price? I'm trying to buy it at a lower price, so if issues do show up, I don't get screwed at the end. I'm also located in California, so I'm not sure if we have as much rust issues compared to Michigan.
Last edited by doctor_crispp; 08-10-2021 at 07:50 PM.
08-10-2021, 08:09 PM
#4
Pretty sure most areas of CA are like paradise vs the northern states that see a lot of snow (and salt on the roads), atleast as far as rusty vehicles go. Rust in of it's self isn't a major deal in an area where rust isn't a major problem. Here the rust gets so bad the bottom of the boxes fall off, and the frame can get so bad it breaks in half. I've bought a lot of parts vehicles with bad frames, and when it's that bad, the best case would be to replace the frame, since patch work won't last long before another section rusts through. I'm pretty sure CA prices are some of the highest in the country, so $5k to you might be cheap, but that's expensive for me xD. If the truck is more or less perfect and in great shape, I could see $5k, but if it's been in a wreck, is rusty, etc, I'd be targeting more $2-3k at best in my area.
Just as an example, I went truck hunting about 6 years ago for a Tacoma 3.4L v6 5 speed manual 4x4 extended cab truck that was in good to great shape. I was willing to spend upto $5k, and the one I went for looked great in the photos and was listed for $3600. After showing up there, the truck was just starting to get the michigan cancer (rust) and I offered $2000 and they took it. The next year the leaf spring mount broke free from the frame and I sold it for parts/repair for $1000 and started driving my $500 rusted out beater T100. That truck is made in Japan like the 87 would be, the Tacoma was made in the USA and Dana axles didn't build the frames to spec, so that was a major problem. It seems the Japanese built machines hold up better, but maybe I have a bias for Japanese made machines. The VIN starts with JT for Japan Toyota, 1T, 2T, 4T and 5T are all USA Toyota.
Anyway, surface rust (light rust) shouldn't be a problem and probably somewhat common I'd think there on the underside of vehicles. It's the heavy rust where rust holes can form and such where the problem is. If the rust flakes off, it's pretty heavy at that point (called scaling).
I wish I had pics of the frame, but here's a couple trucks I had. First one I got cheap because the frame was patched with chainsaw bars (hill billy style fixing, but way up north lol). I used it as a yard beater because it had too many issues including the frame (paid $500 for it). After about 3 years the frame did break in half. You can see in that pic the door didn't shut right, the fender is rusted off the body, and the cab to box lines aren't even. That box is a fiberglass aftermarket box (inside is smooth flat metal, usa built box, I think in Ohio if I remember right).
On the opposite side of things, this 2wd truck is the AZ truck I mentioned before. It has surface rust on the tail gate and such, but it's nothing major, sand down and repaint and it's savable. Paid $900 for this one, and got to drive it for a while till I got the Tacoma.
I don't see pics of my T100, but the body is shot, but the frame is good (just surface rust). This frame is probably just a little better shape than my T100 to give a bit of a visual. I think I paid like $300 for this one, not engine/trans and frame was bobbed (cut off). Figured it would be a fun off road toy, just haven't figured out what I'm throwing in it.
Here's another fun example where you can see the heavy scaled frame. This truck was a daily driver until right before I bought it. The frame physically is broken on one side. Box was trashed (I pulled it) and the frame is junk, but the cab isn't half bad, a little rust on the fender, the rest is good. This was a long box extra cab 2wd.
Talking about all of these trucks, one thing to note is the 2wd's have a 5 lug bolt pattern while the 4x4 had 6 lug. Also the brakes on the 4x4's were upgraded. The 2wd's generally had higher gearing while the 4x4's very often came with 4.10 gearing or near that area (3.73 to 4.56 vs around 3.50's for 2wd). If you want mpg and more of a road vehicle, the 2wd's are great for that and drive more like a car. The 4x4's are more off roaders and work trucks, they ride a bit stiffer and are lower geared so mpg isn't as good. The 2wd's can hit around 30mpg, the 4x4's I never had on the road, but I suspect around the mid 20's. My T100 got around 18-20mpg but that's with a v6 too and a physically bigger truck.
Kind of funny, I feel like I'm an expert on rust or something giving a class on it xD.
Just as an example, I went truck hunting about 6 years ago for a Tacoma 3.4L v6 5 speed manual 4x4 extended cab truck that was in good to great shape. I was willing to spend upto $5k, and the one I went for looked great in the photos and was listed for $3600. After showing up there, the truck was just starting to get the michigan cancer (rust) and I offered $2000 and they took it. The next year the leaf spring mount broke free from the frame and I sold it for parts/repair for $1000 and started driving my $500 rusted out beater T100. That truck is made in Japan like the 87 would be, the Tacoma was made in the USA and Dana axles didn't build the frames to spec, so that was a major problem. It seems the Japanese built machines hold up better, but maybe I have a bias for Japanese made machines. The VIN starts with JT for Japan Toyota, 1T, 2T, 4T and 5T are all USA Toyota.
Anyway, surface rust (light rust) shouldn't be a problem and probably somewhat common I'd think there on the underside of vehicles. It's the heavy rust where rust holes can form and such where the problem is. If the rust flakes off, it's pretty heavy at that point (called scaling).
I wish I had pics of the frame, but here's a couple trucks I had. First one I got cheap because the frame was patched with chainsaw bars (hill billy style fixing, but way up north lol). I used it as a yard beater because it had too many issues including the frame (paid $500 for it). After about 3 years the frame did break in half. You can see in that pic the door didn't shut right, the fender is rusted off the body, and the cab to box lines aren't even. That box is a fiberglass aftermarket box (inside is smooth flat metal, usa built box, I think in Ohio if I remember right).
On the opposite side of things, this 2wd truck is the AZ truck I mentioned before. It has surface rust on the tail gate and such, but it's nothing major, sand down and repaint and it's savable. Paid $900 for this one, and got to drive it for a while till I got the Tacoma.
I don't see pics of my T100, but the body is shot, but the frame is good (just surface rust). This frame is probably just a little better shape than my T100 to give a bit of a visual. I think I paid like $300 for this one, not engine/trans and frame was bobbed (cut off). Figured it would be a fun off road toy, just haven't figured out what I'm throwing in it.
Here's another fun example where you can see the heavy scaled frame. This truck was a daily driver until right before I bought it. The frame physically is broken on one side. Box was trashed (I pulled it) and the frame is junk, but the cab isn't half bad, a little rust on the fender, the rest is good. This was a long box extra cab 2wd.
Talking about all of these trucks, one thing to note is the 2wd's have a 5 lug bolt pattern while the 4x4 had 6 lug. Also the brakes on the 4x4's were upgraded. The 2wd's generally had higher gearing while the 4x4's very often came with 4.10 gearing or near that area (3.73 to 4.56 vs around 3.50's for 2wd). If you want mpg and more of a road vehicle, the 2wd's are great for that and drive more like a car. The 4x4's are more off roaders and work trucks, they ride a bit stiffer and are lower geared so mpg isn't as good. The 2wd's can hit around 30mpg, the 4x4's I never had on the road, but I suspect around the mid 20's. My T100 got around 18-20mpg but that's with a v6 too and a physically bigger truck.
Kind of funny, I feel like I'm an expert on rust or something giving a class on it xD.
08-11-2021, 07:17 AM
#5
YT Community Team
Just because it's in California doesn't mean it lived here, you still need to be watchful.
Rust and bad body work are just a nightmare to fix. Makes replacing a engine seem easy. Superficial rust on the frame and body can be removed, neutralized, and painted. When the metal is actually bubbling that's a whole different beast. One that'd make me close my wallet.
A Salvage title can be problematic. Depends on why it got branded.
Extensive body work would make me walk. Or at least make a low offer.
Interior pieces can be hard to come by. If the interior is trashed I'd bid low.
Carfax's green check marks won't mean much on a vehicle of this vintage. The history showing date/miles/location of certain events like registration, state inspections, etc. can be enlightening if you know how to read.
Rust and bad body work are just a nightmare to fix. Makes replacing a engine seem easy. Superficial rust on the frame and body can be removed, neutralized, and painted. When the metal is actually bubbling that's a whole different beast. One that'd make me close my wallet.
A Salvage title can be problematic. Depends on why it got branded.
Extensive body work would make me walk. Or at least make a low offer.
Interior pieces can be hard to come by. If the interior is trashed I'd bid low.
Carfax's green check marks won't mean much on a vehicle of this vintage. The history showing date/miles/location of certain events like registration, state inspections, etc. can be enlightening if you know how to read.
08-11-2021, 11:06 AM
#6
Yea, #1 thing in my area is body condition, even a body with no engine/trans goes for more than a rusty running/driving vehicle. Replacing an engine is easy vs major rust damage, we have a saying here, you can replace parts, but it's hard to replace rust.
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Jimkola (08-11-2021)
08-11-2021, 11:59 AM
#7
YT Community Team
One winter driving in Chicago will make you think it was pulled off the deck of the Titanic. Seen it twice, once on a two year old LC, the other was a Avalon. Every bolt we tried to remove on the undercarriage broke. What a nightmare. I don’t know how the service depts there deal with on a daily basis.
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08-11-2021, 12:14 PM
#8
That's pretty crazy, I've head of people saying the newer built machines aren't as good for rust prevention (besides all of the plastic), but never experenced anything that sever. Generally the old toyota bolts come loose even after 20+ years in the salt belt. For just about any other brand, your hoping and praying it doesn't break.
The service departs (mechanic shops) don't care about the rust one bit, it's the workers that deal with it and the customer that has to pay extra if the shop actually charges extra for rusty bolts. Most don't charge extra and charge "by the book" hours, the same book that Texas uses, Arizona, etc. If the rust isn't bad, a good mechanic up here can get the job done within about the time span it calls for. If the rust is bad, it can be 2-4 times longer. Some jobs the mechanic can do 2-4 times faster than the time, but those are less common and things have to go really well for that to happen. Btw, my dad was a mechanic all of his life up here, he's always had bloody knuckles, damaged finger nails, sometimes bleeding under the nail (drill a hole to relieve the pressure by hand), etc.
The service departs (mechanic shops) don't care about the rust one bit, it's the workers that deal with it and the customer that has to pay extra if the shop actually charges extra for rusty bolts. Most don't charge extra and charge "by the book" hours, the same book that Texas uses, Arizona, etc. If the rust isn't bad, a good mechanic up here can get the job done within about the time span it calls for. If the rust is bad, it can be 2-4 times longer. Some jobs the mechanic can do 2-4 times faster than the time, but those are less common and things have to go really well for that to happen. Btw, my dad was a mechanic all of his life up here, he's always had bloody knuckles, damaged finger nails, sometimes bleeding under the nail (drill a hole to relieve the pressure by hand), etc.
08-11-2021, 03:22 PM
#9
YT Community Team
Toyota switched to clear chromate over their zinc-plated bolts instead of yellow. The yellow is better at withstanding salt corrosion but is a way more toxic process.
08-11-2021, 04:11 PM
#10
Yea I've read a bit about zinc plating (it's silver normally, there's an extra step to make it that yellow color, atleast for the DIY process). The EPA laws around plating are nearly impossible to be legal under, so atleast in the usa, there's not many places that plate anymore like they used to. If my memory is right the law was setup so if there was any updates to the process of zinc plating, it was basically an instant mandate. Not sure how toxic the actual process is since there's a lot of scrubbing and such done on the fumes. Not really sure what the byproduct of the process is though either. For DIY at home people, it's fairly easy to plate small things, but at scale the regulations cripple any startup.
Ironically, out in the ocean, the same logic of zinc plating is used on most (all?) metal ships. They have a zinc anode bolted on under the water level. The whole way the zinc works as rust prevention is the zinc will corrode (white powder) before steel, so it's sacrificed for the integrity of the steel it's protecting. That's how a steel ship can survive being in the ocean with out rusting to nothing. Same logic for the zinc anodes for in ground propane tanks, steel under ground tends to rust quicker than above ground (more moisture etc). The zinc is checked every fill up (or should be) from my understanding, and if it's about used up, it's replaced. Too bad we couldn't just bolt a lump of zinc to our vehicles and add 20-30 years of rust prevention xD.
Ironically, out in the ocean, the same logic of zinc plating is used on most (all?) metal ships. They have a zinc anode bolted on under the water level. The whole way the zinc works as rust prevention is the zinc will corrode (white powder) before steel, so it's sacrificed for the integrity of the steel it's protecting. That's how a steel ship can survive being in the ocean with out rusting to nothing. Same logic for the zinc anodes for in ground propane tanks, steel under ground tends to rust quicker than above ground (more moisture etc). The zinc is checked every fill up (or should be) from my understanding, and if it's about used up, it's replaced. Too bad we couldn't just bolt a lump of zinc to our vehicles and add 20-30 years of rust prevention xD.
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