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1987 Toyota pickup 22r idle problem

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Old 11-22-2019, 04:15 PM
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1987 Toyota pickup 22r idle problem

Every cold start it will start and idle fine until the idle gets really high and won’t drop until you pat the gas any idea to get the idle at a normal speed and not so high?
Old 11-22-2019, 04:59 PM
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Carbed, not EFI, right??

If the high cold idle drops when the accelerator is tapped, sounds like it's working as designed.

Should be possible to adjust the idle somewhat lower if truly excessive, but otherwise, no worries.
Old 11-22-2019, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by millball
Carbed, not EFI, right??

If the high cold idle drops when the accelerator is tapped, sounds like it's working as designed.

Should be possible to adjust the idle somewhat lower if truly excessive, but otherwise, no worries.
yes it’s carbureted I’ve read where it was normal to idle high when it was cold but it seems to be too high but after I pay the gas it idles perfect
Old 11-23-2019, 09:17 AM
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From my experience your problem can be found in the choke opener diaphragm. It's responsible to release the choke once the BVSV senses a warm enough coolant temperature. The RPM cannot be adjusted as it is set by the angle of the choke and the throttle valve angle. Use a vacuum pump and connect it to your choke diaphragm. Pump it up to @ 20 psi (some very slow leakage is fine) and it should pull the linkage in releasing the fast idle cam. If it doesn't hold or doesn't pump up then your diaphragm is bad. If the diaphragm is good then it's probably your BVSV not applying vacuum correctly. You can also "T" into the vacuum line with your hand pump and watch what the BVSV does. If it never sends vacuum to the choke diaphragm then it's not going to release the fast idle cam.

Also, how long are you waiting? What temperature thermostat are you running? A lower thermostat temp will cause the BVSB to pull in sooner and a sticking thermostat will cause it to pull in later.

Once the choke opener drops idle then your choke heater should be warmed up and it holds the choke valve fully open so it doesn't run too rich under normal temperature. It's powered directly from your alternator from terminal L.

Last edited by Tims86Toy; 11-23-2019 at 09:19 AM.
Old 11-24-2019, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Tims86Toy
From my experience your problem can be found in the choke opener diaphragm. It's responsible to release the choke once the BVSV senses a warm enough coolant temperature. The RPM cannot be adjusted as it is set by the angle of the choke and the throttle valve angle. Use a vacuum pump and connect it to your choke diaphragm. Pump it up to @ 20 psi (some very slow leakage is fine) and it should pull the linkage in releasing the fast idle cam. If it doesn't hold or doesn't pump up then your diaphragm is bad. If the diaphragm is good then it's probably your BVSV not applying vacuum correctly. You can also "T" into the vacuum line with your hand pump and watch what the BVSV does. If it never sends vacuum to the choke diaphragm then it's not going to release the fast idle cam.

Also, how long are you waiting? What temperature thermostat are you running? A lower thermostat temp will cause the BVSB to pull in sooner and a sticking thermostat will cause it to pull in later.

Once the choke opener drops idle then your choke heater should be warmed up and it holds the choke valve fully open so it doesn't run too rich under normal temperature. It's powered directly from your alternator from terminal L.
it’s been sitting for about 4 years I’m thinking it could be a sticking thermostat it still has the stock radiator
Old 11-24-2019, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Austin87
it’s been sitting for about 4 years I’m thinking it could be a sticking thermostat it still has the stock radiator
Your're barking up the wrong tree there, unless you have other overheating issues that you haven't mentioned.
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