n4ynu1010

I believe you , it may be fixed , ok so it is a progressive and not synchrounous , thats nice to know .
Just wait on the jets and get'em in there and I have a feeling she is going to wake up a bit .

natedawgg94

k sorry it's been awhile these long hours of work are dragging me down lol. got the jets yesterday but looks like it may be the weekend before i get to install. also picked up some new plugs to change after the jets. got my exhaust leak fixed over the weekend, adjusted the valves, played with the timing, and truck is running a lot better. heard from the guy i bought it from said 1 thing he for got to tell me was the fuel pump has never been changed. so anyone see that as a problem? depending on how the new jets work out i may end up buying a new one. should i get a oem or aftermarket?

n4ynu1010

Hey man you don't owe me a explanation , you sound like you have been real busy .
If the fuel pump is working then leave it be , one thing I would be curious about is the pressure the pump develops , is the fuel pump you have for the injected motor or carbuerated motor ?
If the truck came with a injected motor and you have a fuel pump for injection then I would presume someone has added a fuel pressure regulator and if your trk had a carburated motor in it then don't worry about it , if it is working and not running dry then its good to go , I used to have a small brass block on my race motors that had a barbed adapter on each end for fuel lines and a 1/8" npt threaded port in the middle , and I would put a 20 psi gauge in the 1/8" port so I could monitor not only my fuel pressure but the fuel pumps health as well , they are real cheap and you can get a little angle bracket and mount to the fender well inside engine compartment so you will always know you have the right pressure or pressure at all .
Make sure when you take that carb apart to double check your "Float Bowl Level" - very important - and could have something to do with the dying on hard acceleration problem if "Float Bowl Level" is low .
Take your time man and let me know how it does when you get it done .

natedawgg94

k the fuel pressure reg. sounds like a good idea got any pics or link to place to buy whole setup? that's what i'm worrying bout the pump not keeping pressure. also where should float level be? (thinking just above halfway). easy on me i've not worked on a lot of carbed cars. been raining here so may be the weekend before i get around to doing anything on the truck. our shop has to much junk in it lol.

n4ynu1010

You may not need a regulator if you have the fuel pump for the carbuerated engine , I was just saying you could mount a pressure gauge there to monitor and check the pressure , you will need to find out from Weber Dealer or Rep what max pressure or reccomended pressure is , since it is for that motor you should be fine but gauge would tell you exactly what pressure the pump is delivering and in fact that it is working good , you should order manual for that carb if you havn't already
The float generally when you take the top off of the carb and turn upside down then the float should generally be sitting perpendicular/paralell with the flat surface just below it (carb body) holding it upside down.
Call the Carb dealer and ask them what the measurement is , they have a measurement that you set the space between the top of the float and the carb body while holding upside down after removing top of carb , generally that measurement will put it pretty much exactly paralell with the body of the carb just below it while holding upside down.
Just be very careful bending tab that reasts on main jet to adj height of float bowl , do not bend float bowl to either side or any way as this will mess up the float bowl level and operation of the float , you will see a small tab coming off of float bowl body in center that rests directly on the main needle jet , that little tab is all you bend very carefully to raise or lower float bowl level / height adj. .

natedawgg94

gotcha can drove the truck this morning and was running a little rough then when i shutthe truck off here at work it backfired and could smell fuel. which i've noticed a slight fuel smell lately after shuting the truck off. also noticed this morning a freaking oil leak where the timing cover and head meet. eeeerrrrrrr more fun for the weekend. lol i think i need to check the fuel pressure from idle to over half throttle. there is only 2 thing left on the truck that are orginal with 250k on them that's the fuel pump nad the distr. thinking of swapping the 2????? good idea?

n4ynu1010

If the float bowl level is low then you will have that problem with acceleration as the float bowl will dry up if too low and if your fuel pressure is low (which I doubt) it could too , stopped up fuel filter could do the same .
If its running rough on idle and your smelling alot of gas then float bowl level could be too high also or fuel pressure could be too high , need to find what pressure the carb is designed to use and then check your fuel pressure and see where you are at
You should be able to get the pressure gauge block at a auto store (brass or aluminum block with 2 barbed adapt. ends and a 1/8" npt in middle) , you can probably get one with the gauge maybe but the gauges are cheap if you can't , you would'nt need but a 20psi max for the carb. .
If your truck came with a carbuerator then it should be Ok , if the trk came with a EFI originally then you will definately need a pressure regulator .
Either way it would be nice to see what pressure the pump is delivering so you could see if it is working like it should
And if you havn't changed the fuel filter or it looks very old then I would change that just to be sure as well .
Running rough could be alot of things , if the motor is timed and ignition is good then it would have to be carbuerator and if it is carb and you are smellin gas then main needle jet may need to be replaced,float level too high or fuel pressure too high .
Just remember once you get it straight it will be reliable carb , I loved mine , but looks like PO may have left you a little can '0 worms there , just keep at it and you will get it right

natedawgg94

yeah just wish i had a little more time to work on this beast. the truck did come factory with carb. if i can find a gauge i can make a block here at the shop. how these thing run at the parts place? hopefully i'll have some good progress to report saturday. this old truck needs a little work been raining past few days and i've noticed that i'm getting water in the truck. haven't pin pointed it but it's running down beside the driver side kick panel. windsheild is cracked could be that. just something else to add to the list of to do's lol

n4ynu1010

You can get a gauge cheap man from a local hardware or auto parts store , just need a 20psi gauge for oil or gas , if you can't find one at those places then go to a HVAC Supply and they will have some low pressure gauges for oil burner applications you can use
Since you have the carbuerated pump it should be about right so if it is running real rich at idle it would most likely be your main needle jet or float bowl level unless the Weber incorporates some kind of power valve and if that is bad it could cause it too (backfires will blow the diapram in them and cause extra gas to leak in venturi's which is only really noticeable at idle).
Take your time man , get it right , don't get in a rush , it will save you alot of money and aggravation

natedawgg94

yeah i've kinda put it off a little for now had another project come up. motor swap on a honda car which is always fun lol. so truck is runnign okay for now but i still think i'm missing something with the vacuum advance but it can wait for now.

long-haul

Did you get this sorted out? Sounds like you would be in good shape with a fuel pressure regulator and a quick timing check, as long as your electric choke works (if not, definitely start there). Do you have a timing light? If not, just pop off the valve cover, put a 19mm socket on the pulley nut and crank the nut until the cam sprocket dimple is ~11:30-- you should be able to feel slack in the #1 exhaust valve. Pull the distributor cap to make sure she's pointing to #1 on the cap and put everything back together. Leave the distributor finger tight for you to dial in when the engine gets hot. Good luck!

n4ynu1010

Let me know how it goes when you pick it back up

natedawgg94

sorry it's been awhile but finally got back to this project. found a small intake gasket leak and fixed that truck runs a little better but not 100%. haven't had a chance to mess with the jets but the truck does deisel from time to time after cutting the switch off so seems like i need to adjust timing again.

natedawgg94

k i've got the truck pretty close now had some vacuum lines mixed up. now the idle screw is out 1 round. truck fading on the top end and i have some new jets but haven't installed them yet. also installed a fuel pressure guage just to make sure it didn't jump around. pressure bounces around 6 at idle and stays at 5 psi during rpm increase so seems pretty good. hope to change the main jets out this week weather is suppose to be decent

4runner530

I also have an 87 base 4x4 pickup with a 22r carb motor, MIne runs way to rich, need to figure out how to adjust the airfuel mixture but am having a hell of a time