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1987 4runner Auto to Manual Swap

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Old 12-02-2015 | 06:29 AM
  #1  
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From: West TN
1987 4runner Auto to Manual Swap

I have done countless hours of research on this subject so dont flame me for not searching. I think ive found enough writeups and everyone keeps telling me that this is a pretty straight forward job and that I can do it in 7 hours or less. Im still pretty new on working on my truck... so Im having a little nervousness.

I have all the parts I need, a nice guy is selling EVERYTHING for the swap to me for $550 pedals and wires included. I ordered a brand new flywheel and clutch from Marlin Crawler.

My thread is asking you, more experienced wrenchers, If there was any tips or little things that were speedbumps in your install? Things to watch out for? Things to make sure I do right?

The things I havent been able to find a detailed explanation on are:

1.) Wiring the clutch start cancel switch
2.) Wiring the battery volt meter (im switching out the part of my cluster that has the ECT light, i have a sr5 cluster)
3.) everyone says jump the wires to make your truck think youre always in neutral... like this is a no brainer thing that everyone should know like how to tie their shoes, but like can anyone explain this to me a little better?
4.) Where and how to run the clutch lines the writeups are pretty vague on this

heres what ive gathered so far (loosley):

-disconnect driveshafts
-Drop old trans/case
-cut hole in trans shaft for new shifters
-install flywheel and clutch
-install trans/case
-install boot plate/boots
-drill firewall with large drill bit
-wire master/ slave cylender
-install pedals
-install clutch lines
-figure out wiring of computer and clutch start cancel
-figure out how to wire volt meter
-figure out how to wire reverse lights???
-add fluids
After doing all of this it should crank and drive? Am I missing something?

Is there any extra stuff I need to do for the 4wd? like for the light to come on and stuff?


my truck:

1987 4runner SR5 Automatic 22re, Manual front hubs. No lockers yet, no gears yet. Jasper motor with 500 miles on it. and 5 in suspension lift from previous owner

Installing a W56-b transmission


Thank yall in advance for any help and for the time to read my post. Fixing rear sag is next, but im broke now...

Last edited by dbbowen; 12-02-2015 at 06:34 AM.
Old 12-02-2015 | 09:59 AM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

First what part of the country do you live in??

That could play into just how long it takes .

Having help or alone ??

Some time having help is worse depending on the help.

Did you remember to get Fly wheel Bolts since you don`t have them??

The bolts to mount the Clutch plate because you don`t have them??

Does the rear drive shaft come with your parts ??

Maybe it would be better to ask just what all your getting??

If You really want to hook up the Clutch Safety switch plus the button your going to need to get a relay Then wire it up to eliminate Toyota`s blunder .

Since the clutch Hydraulics are run before the engine is dropped in you just do the best you can.

Being very careful not to kink your line as you install it.

I find the new Copper /Nickle line is really nice to work with bends and flares really nice.

I would suggest replacing the rubber line with a new one then every thing is new.

Cross member come with your parts *** Been so long I can not recall if they are different .

New Transmission Mount while you have it all apart

Voltmeter !!
Just plug your cluster in the Voltmeter is connected to the bus on the cluster according to Scope I never had a need to look

Neutral safety switch

Jumper the Black/White Stripe wire and the Black wire.

Reverse lights

Your Auto Trans is going to have a different plug then the manual one Maybe you got both male and female plugs with your parts.

Other wise either source your own plug or go looking to find one at your local yard.

4x4 light
On the manual trans it is only one wire the switch grounds into the transfer case Red /Yellow stripe wire

I have never done a swap like this without a complete parts vehicle So I know there will be quite a few things missing more then likely.

Unless you have really great luck in which case you have hit Power Ball a few times.

I would venture Two 10 or 12 hour days .

Unless you are the type to go fast and worry about mistakes later

Plan to just cut the trans cooler lines ?
Old 12-02-2015 | 04:26 PM
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From: West TN
Ah, So much info! thats awesome! so...

I basically have a donor truck, going to pick up all the parts on sunday. The guy im buying from has a wrecked truck and has done the swap before so he said he would set me up with all the parts (drive shaft being one of them) He told me about runnning the trans cooler lines to cool the power steering, I wasnt sure of what he was talking about but he said he'd show me.

I ordered all new bolts from marlin crawler, the flywheel bolts and the clutch bolts.

What do you mean about the relay and everything with the clutch start cancel, I would really like to have it. Could I pull the relay from the donor truck?

Where can this copper/nickel hydraulic line be found? Autozone or places like that or specialty shops?

Im pretty sure im getting the cross member with the transmission and case.

With the volt meter, there isnt any type of special wiring to get it to work? I currently have the little Power/ Normal lights in the spot where the volt meter is, but im getting his dash cluster too.

Ill ask and make sure I get both male and female plugs for the reverse lights IM GLAD I ASKED, would not have ever thought of that.

The 4x4 light wire has the same plug on the auto and manual i presume?


I live in Tennessee, are you talking about weather influencing the build? I didnt really get that part.


Ill talk to the guy and see if I can get a list of parts to see if I got everything
Old 12-02-2015 | 04:36 PM
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From: West TN
basically Im getting the trans, case, bell housing, shifters, master/slave cylinders with line, pedal set, flywheel, clutch start cancel, and right side of the dash cluster. He said he will leave all of the male and female wiring on the transmission
Old 12-03-2015 | 12:01 AM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

Location had to do with the amount of winter chemicals the vehicles may have seen.

Meaning dealing with broken bolts corroded and rusted hardware etc.

The fine people in the southwest have no clue these things can really increase the times quoted for doing things

Find a copy of the schematic for the clutch start circuit as the manual transmission has a starter relay

Make sure to get the switch mounted on the clutch pedal as well as the switch in the dash

Without looking I don`t know if the Auto Harness has the wiring for a Clutch safety circuit I would guess it does not !!!

Meaning you will need to build your harness for this and merge it into your truck

I think that will be easier then cutting and splicing manual harness parts.

I buy the Brake Line Tubing from Federal Hill Trading Company

Cunifer tubing is the trade name .

A good site just to check out in any case.

Cluster swap!!!

When doing this the main problem is matching the sensors from the idiot lights to a the gauges you need the sending units that come with the vehicle the cluster was in.

Volt meter is the simple one nothing to do
Old 12-03-2015 | 05:14 AM
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From: West TN
Ah i see what you mean about location now! haha

This clutch start cancel sounds like its going to be a job haha I am currently looking for an 87 FSM right now, all of the online links are broken so it might look like ill have to buy one from somewhere.

With the cluster swap, Im only swapping the right side of the cluster (it seems to be 3 pieces. Im going to keep my speedometer/tach(middle) and my oil pressure/temp (left) so hopefully it will just all plug in and play. Hopefully!!! hahah
Old 12-03-2015 | 12:48 PM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

Best of luck I have only swapped the complete clusters .

When doing projects like this Mr Murphy likes to visit.
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