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1987 22r Ssupposedly Rebuilt and maybe low Oil Pressure?
I recently bought an 87 toyota pickup xtra cab 4wd.
5 speed. With it came an 87 xtra cab long bed 2wd for parts. The 87 4wd sat for 8 years seldom being ran. When I got it the interior was all apart and needed to be put together. I got that squared away. Hooked a battery up and found the alternator wire was melting and smoking. Took the wires and alternator off and disconnected the radiator and hoses. It had water and corrosion in the radiator which was useless and I didnt need the alternator to start the truck. The owner I bought it from said that the 22r was rebuilt. Under the hood all things appear to be there. All vaccuum lines are hooked. Aside from removing the alternator and radiator components, I had to add gas, free up the carb of mud dauber nests, and gas and gas treatment to the tank. Now, the stories out the way, here's the issue ----->
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The previous owner said the owner before him had the 22r rebuilt. He said it didn't have any oil pressure. When I got it running, I cleaned the air out of the oil pressure sending unit. I disconnected at the block and shot oil across the yard then I got smart and disconnected it at the back of the aftermarket oil pressure reader. The oil pressure at idle is 18 - 20 psi on startup. I know the rule of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 RPM but I'm just not sure if that's good enough? I dont want any premature wear on the engine and want to make sure parts are properly lubricated. I have my daily driver single cab 4wd which usually has the psi creep up (along with RPMs due to vaccuum line leaks) but once it's good and running it idles at around 1800 rpm and 30 psi oil pressure. This new xtra cab seems to idle at a lower RPM (no tach but sounds quieter) but has the aforementioned 18 - 20 psi. Does this seem okay? Is there any way to make sure I'm getting enough oil to all the important parts? Would changing the oil and filter help being it could be 8 years old? How can I check oil gallery plugs? Drop pan and check oil pickup tube? Remove oil pump?
Any help is appreciated with trouble shooting. Please let me know if I'm over thinking or under thinking.
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some pics of it just to show off I guess.
1987 22r with w56 trans in it. Japanese style 4wd bed somehow in Louisiana.
Alright. Oil pressure is around 15 - 20 psi at idle. The needle in the oil pressure reader kinda wiggles. When I hit the throttle, the oil pressure jumps up. Earlier I held the throttle to get 40 psi. the later 60 psi. Based off the oil pressure reader getting it above 60 seemed hard if not impossible. Just trying to get some insight. Someone pls help 😭😭
Alright so I got oil pressure now. Thanks ole87yota for the information. I have 60 psi when the truck is warming up. Once its warm, the psi stays around 20 or 30. It idles fine when the PSI is at either of those two. The issue I'm noticing now is once I put it into first or reverse. I put the truck in first and let out on the clutch but it'll stall. Itll do the same in reverse. It's a soft stall like not getting enough gas. The oil pressure obviously drops. I find myself having to give it a lot more throttle to prevent a stall. Also, sometimes when I hit the throttle, theres a light hesitation where oil pressure drops instead of goes up (this is intermittent). Could this be from a vaccuum leak? Could the truck be getting too much air for the gas and then stalling out? It's got bigger mud tires compared to my single cab's smaller all terrains so I expect to use the throttle when letting off the clutch more but it just feels too weak when I let out. Anything below the listed 20 psi and the idle is rough. I'm looking for any tips relating to this throttle delay/stalling easy in gear) Could it be the carb? Vaccuum leak? Actually oil pressure issue? Sorry for the random progression of the message. Any help is greatly appreciated.
the truck has the stock 4.10 and 31/10.50 tire . Nothing too exceptional I dont believe.
I checked the carb fuel bowl. It's too full. But could it being too full cause the throttle hesitation? Could that cause the rough low idle? I haven't checked the gas lines but plan to. Could that cause the issue? I've just got no clue right now.
I long ago gave up on carburetors in cars, but "fuel bowl too full" is almost always caused by a bad float valve. Maybe just dirty. In my (very limited) experience, carb rebuild kits pretty much always include a replacement valve.
Alright I got the fuel bowl lense out and sprayed carb cleaner in the trucks float valve area. I pressed the valve up and down with my finger and it moves pretty freely. Probably still needs adjusting. The truck will idle very low and has 20 psi at warmed up idle. It doesnt require throttle to stay alive but still wants to die once I try to creep off in first or reverse. Theres still the pause when giving throttle intermittently. I got a rebuild kit but pretty much every screw I touched on the top half of the carb rounded so I'm not doing that and I'm tired and defeated lol. Thinking of throwing a new mechanical pump after checking how strong the suck from the current one is
Alright, later on that same day, I took the fuel line off that runs after the fuel pump (mechanical) and before the carb. I cranked the engine and it spit some really red gas. I decided to drop the skid plate and drained the tan . Then I flushed some new gas through it just to clean it out more. Now the tank is empty and I've been trying to clean out the gas lines. what I've been doing is leaving the fuel line off the carb and cranking the engine to get it to spit into a bottle. This is taking a bit of time. I'll usually fill the butterflies with some gas, get the truck runnin, then spray starter fluid in the carb to keep it going. Then the fuel pump spits a lil bit of the old fuel out the lines at a time. I was wondering if there was a better or faster way to do this? I've been doing this for most of the day and I'm still not getting everything out the lines. Dont want to have anything in the lines that's that red and old. I tried looking around and some said compressed air. Would that be faster? What would be the procedure? Tryin to get a good idea.
Alright, later on that same day, I took the fuel line off that runs after the fuel pump (mechanical) and before the carb. I cranked the engine and it spit some really red gas. I decided to drop the skid plate and drained the tan . Then I flushed some new gas through it just to clean it out more. Now the tank is empty and I've been trying to clean out the gas lines. what I've been doing is leaving the fuel line off the carb and cranking the engine to get it to spit into a bottle. This is taking a bit of time. I'll usually fill the butterflies with some gas, get the truck runnin, then spray starter fluid in the carb to keep it going. Then the fuel pump spits a lil bit of the old fuel out the lines at a time. I was wondering if there was a better or faster way to do this? I've been doing this for most of the day and I'm still not getting everything out the lines. Dont want to have anything in the lines that's that red and old. I tried looking around and some said compressed air. Would that be faster? What would be the procedure? Tryin to get a good idea.
Pull the inlet hose off the pump.
You can start a siphon here or pressurize the tank.
Easiest way that comes to mind to pressurize it is to CAP off the vent on the fill nozzle and put air in the vent hose
Red? Are you in a farming community? In North America, farmers can buy gasoline without tax, for use off-roads only. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_d..._North_America To keep it out of your road-worthy pickup, the gas is dyed red. If you are caught with red gas, there is a substantial penalty.
To pressurize the tank, all you need to do is squeeze closed the evap line, and wait for the sun to come up. As the fuel warms, it will build pressure in the tank (especially when it's low on fuel). Once it squeezes out enough fuel to fill the line (going to your gas can) below the level of the fuel, just remove the filler cap and it should siphon out.
You can start a siphon here or pressurize the tank.
Easiest way that comes to mind to pressurize it is to CAP off the vent on the fill nozzle and put air in the vent hose
I'll definitely try this. The problem with the current method is having to feed the carb and keep it going to pump substantially faster through the system. I'm not sure how the lines have so much bad gas in them given I drained the tank and cranked it over so much now.
Red? Are you in a farming community? In North America, farmers can buy gasoline without tax, for use off-roads only. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_d..._North_America To keep it out of your road-worthy pickup, the gas is dyed red. If you are caught with red gas, there is a substantial penalty.
To pressurize the tank, all you need to do is squeeze closed the evap line, and wait for the sun to come up. As the fuel warms, it will build pressure in the tank (especially when it's low on fuel). Once it squeezes out enough fuel to fill the line (going to your gas can) below the level of the fuel, just remove the filler cap and it should siphon out.
Spoiler
I'm in rural south central Louisiana. Theres a fair share of farming but I'm not sure on the gas. I thought it may be farm gas. The truck sat for 8 years with gas in the tank. And no cap on the filler neck. I just figured it was really old gas that had evaporated all the ethonal out and water may have crept into the tank. I havent tried anything with the red gas to see if it's burns easy or what.
Aleight. I now have good gas in the tank and the truck idled well for a while. Since the new gas, I had it idling at a higher RPM (based on noise) but the oil pressure gauge only would register 40 psi on a cold start. Then it would idle down to 30ish psi. Eventually it sputter out though. When the idle dropped to around 20 psi any application of gas would cause the RPMs to tank and the PSI to also tank. Then I tried starting it a few more times and it would start but then sputter out again. Eventually it kicked off and after a minute returned to the higher idle at like 30ish psi and would respond to throttle by having rpms go up. Maxing out the throttle pegged the oil pressure around 45 psi. I looked it up and some info on the throttle making the psi tank and some other threads said the accelerator pump? I also have a replacement fuel pump to try if that could be it? Also looking for any insight on maybe trouble shooting or other possible leads? One thing I've been doing is taking the fuel filter off and blowing on the line that feeds to the pump(the reverse way) and spitting out the orange rust and debris it picks up. I'm fine with changing the pump and acknowledge itll need another new fuel filter. But I'm trying to figure out what makes it act this way. If I left it to idle, it would also eventually die without any throttle engagement. But once it idles down around 20 psi and throttle is applied it wants to stall out. I dont want to change the pump and filter and have no progress but dont mind doing it.
Stop fixating on oil pressure. It has absolutely nothing to do with whatever fuel/carburetor issues you are experiencing.
About all that might be said is that oil pressure is somewhat dependent on engine revs. Nothing to do with your real issues.
The only reason I'm fixated on the oil pressure is because the previous owner told me it had no oil pressure and thats why it was parked for so long to begin with. So I'm wary on its oil pressure in general. And I only had the oil pressure sender unit to gauge anything off of. I put an tachometer and the new fuel pump. It runs fine for a while but then the RPMs kinda fluctuate (bounces up then down) Could be the gauges. Sounded consistent. Gauge just didn't read consistent. Almost like the wire had a short in it with intermittent contact. Then the RPMs dropped and oil pressure obviously followed suite. On idle it was around 1500 rpm before dropping and dropping as if choked without enough gas. I gave it throttle and held it at 3000 rpm. Oil pressure was 30. Would it do that with a gas issue? I get that oil pressure is dependent on engine speed. But you've got to have good oil pressure before you have premature wear. At 3000 rpm you're supposed to have 36 - 72. I'm most likely gonna drop the tank soon and check it out. Maybe something clogging or causing gas issues. I'm just looking for insight.
Oil pressure is not your problem. As long as you have some oil pressure than you will be fine. Based off of the numbers you report I would agree that either then engine is low mileage or was indeed rebuilt before. Those are very good pressure numbers. Your running issue is most definitely a bad gas or fuel pumping issue. It is common for the lines on top of the tank to rust out. You may be sucking some air into the fuel line while the engine is running. Since the truck sat for so long I would suggest you look at replacing the carb with a weber or a Holley. The stock carb is going to give you nothing but trouble.
Alright. After dropping the tank on it, I looked in it with my phone flashlight and recorded what I could see. It's way rusted. I poured out the last bit of gas in it and it was all gritty and dark chocolate color. I have a 2wd parts truck and the gas tank was off and in the bed when I got it. I looked at it the same way and it looks great on the inside. The 2wd gas tank is smaller but I'm not too worried about that. Anyways I put the 2wd gas tank in, put all the hoses. And now the fuel pump wont suck from the gas tank. I took the fuel hose off at the fuel filter and put it in a can to see if the fuel pump somehow got messed up and it sucked from the gas can just fine. I'm really hoping this gas tank will work. I'm pretty sure the hoses are on the tank right. Could that even cause the issue? I know theres about 2 gallons in the tank and the fuel pump is spitting nothing in the bottle I have rigged up after the fuel pump and before the carb.
As someone else said stop worrying about your oil pressure it's fine. Have you check the distributor cap and rotor button? What you describe with the engine dying sounds like the distributor could be a tooth off. It may be the carb but don't get hung up on one thing. Check the timing with a timing light, that should.let you know if the distributor is in correctly.
Alright. Been down on it a couple days preparing back to school stuff and staff meetings. Plus the battery was dead on the truck. I put the battery on a trickle charger and went threw it on the truck. She idles without dying now. High idle was 2500ish RPMs. Warmed up idle was around 1250ish. Sounded good. Still had the small delay in throttle pedal and revs. At idle of 1250 rpm and 10 psi the idle isnt as smooth. But honestly still feels like a fine idle. I guess all that could be carb related after sitting up like said before. I also haven't ever looked at the timing like garyd22re said. Which I'll probably get around to checking that too. I want to get the lower steering coupling so I can actually drive it on a type of road and see how she feels. I'm eager and tired of waitin but also tired of working lol.
07-15-2020, 01:46 PM
