outdoorjunky

I have a question about AC service fittings. I'm doing a proper r12 to r134a conversion on my truck I purchased a new condenser, evaporations core, Drier, Compressor, Expansion valve, and new o-rings for all the hose connections and fittings but I'm having an issue with the service port adapters. I've purchased two different service port adapters sets that are supposed to be for r12 to r134a conversions but the fittings are the same thread count and size and only fit on the low pressure side of the manifold. The high pressure side is a standard tire stem Schrader valve thread count and the fittings are too big to work on it. Can anyone point me to which adapter I need to be able to connect the r134a service fitting to the high side on my compressor manifold? I'm reusing the original compressor manifold on the new Denso compressor. Thanks in advance for the help.

outdoorjunky

I figured out a solution. For anyone in the future I used the AC pro adapter fitting set for r12 to r134a but the issue was/is that the fitting with the correct thread count has a flange with a hex pattern to be able to use a wrench on it. The hex pattern wont clear the manifold housing so I had to grind it off and use some pliers with electrical tape wrapped around the jaws to get it on the housing. The other fittings I got with the red and blue caps did not fit the high side at all.

Blueman

When you're done, please share the total cost, how long it took you, and if you're happy with the results in the summer heat. Mine needs a bit of R12 now and then, and I'm guarding my extra cans. But once they're gone, I'll need to go down your road.

outdoorjunky

Will do. I can tell you total cost to this point having all the parts in hand and refrigerant. So far I'm about 650$ in parts and I bought a manifold gauge set so I can charge the system myself at a cost of about 110$. I bought some components that were probably not needed too but I wanted to bring the whole system up to date so I got a new Compressor, evap core, AC low pressure switch, amplifier, Condenser, and drier all are Denso parts. I probably could have saved money by just taking it to a shop to charge it but I have other vehicles I wanted to use the gauge set for in the future so long term it will pay for its self. I could have saved money by not going with OE parts too I'm sure but I prefer to stay OE when possible, I think the aftermarket complete kit is about 200$ less than I spent.

Beside all of that I think the previous owner charged the r12 system with r134a at some point, probably right before he sold the truck to me because the AC worked for the first week or so and then the system stopped turning on. I took a black light to the fittings and every single fitting was glowing green with uv dye including the compressor housing so I think all the seals got eaten away from mixing the ester oil with the r134a and the low pressure switch prevented the compressor from turning on. Thats another reason why I just opted to replace stuff instead of reusing the evap core and stuff like that because the guy before me was a real idiot and did a lot of jenky stuff that I've spent the last 2 years correcting.

I'll report back with results when I get it done and tested in real AC conditions.

mholme

outdoorjunky I think I posted on your Facebook thread asking if the 22RE only has service ports on the compressor. Is it possible to retrofit lines from a later model that has service ports on the lines for 134A? Only being able to charge at the compressor with makeshift adapters doesn’t sound ideal, even a little risky if liquid refrigerant hits at ground zero.

outdoorjunky

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yes the ports are on the compressor housing and newer R134a systems seem to have the ports on the hard lines that come off the compressor. I'm not sure if this compressor was used in later models or not. As far as make shift the only thing make shift was grinding the base of the fitting that has a ridiculous amount of extra material that blocks it from threading on. the connection seems solid with that done and it seems several others had to do the same thing to get their fittings to work. the instructions that came with the new compressor say to use the manifold fittings from the old compressor and to replace the o-ring seals which is what I did and it seems good. the Schrader valves from the original housing are still in tact so if there is some leak it would only be during charging the system with the manifold gauge attached.

mholme

Well good luck. You may want to replace the Schrader valves too. Cheap insurance even if they look fine. I know how satisfying it is to have working AC when you want it. Good on you for buying a gauge set. I’ve recharged several with mine, definitely pays for itself.

outdoorjunky

I have a kit with new Schrader valves that are going to go in too. I'd rather do that than have to pay for refrigerant to recharge the system a second time.

itscrazytom

I recently did mines on the 88 22RE Pickup and I bought everything new like you my friend. I had to get the 90 degree elbow fitting R-134A to be able to connect one side of the hose to the manifold. My first attempt, I pulled a good vacuum and started charging the system with R-134 but the compressor did not engage. I had to direct connect the +12VDC wire on the compressor to the battery and it started taking R-134. Once it took in 1 can, I reconnected the compressor back to the harness. 2 cans in and I blow the low pressure rubber hose. I sent the 30+ year old rubber hose to coldhose.com in florida to replace the failing rubber. Here's my recommendation;

-send in your old rubber hose to get it replaced before attempting the install, 30+ year rubber is not good
-replace all O rings with the green ones, oil them with PAG oil
-buy and install UV dye
-Buy 90 degree elbow for low side valve and use LOCTITE when installing valves

2nd attempt two weeks later when I received the hose back went smooth. So far my AC is still working like a champ.

outdoorjunky

good tips thanks for the reply.

I did buy some UV dye that is going to go in when I charge the system.

As far as the hoses they are definitely newer than the truck. I can see that someone was in there at some point because there were green o-rings on a lot of the fittings except for the drier and the compressor which had the Denso provided o-rings that matched what I have with the new Denso parts so it looks like they replaced the hoses when they resealed the fittings. Anyway, I checked the hose rubber for cracks and it is in good shape. I made sure to move the hose around and flex it a bit to be sure there weren't any hidden dry rotted areas and I didn't see any issues with the rubber.

I got everything installed with new o-rings up to the firewall and then I pulled the EVAP core and swapped it out on my workbench. I would have put it back in already but the weather stripping is shot so I ordered some more and will reseal it before connecting it back up to the heater core and blower motor. I'm close to getting to the charging phase, which I'll probably do tomorrow or Wednesday at the latest. Fingers crossed that it all goes smooth and the compressor fires up when it gets pressure.

86SR5PU

I feel I got lucky...
I tried to purchase a $200 kit but they did not have the right compressor for my truck.
Talking to my dad, the 2nd owner of the truck, he told me the gas came out of the ac system all at once, in the early '90s.

For less than $100 I gathered 134 gas, oil, o-rings, new dryer and expander. I did have problems with the new fittings and just used the new one on the low side.
I pulled all the hoses and lines to flush them out. This is when I found the problem....
The dealer that installed the system let the liquid line rub on the inner fender.
I ordered a high pressure union from the local auto store for $7, cut the hole off and mended the line.
That same auto parts store loaned me the vacuum pump and gauges for free.

The defroster works like a champ, can't wait for summer....

outdoorjunky

My OCD kicked in and I couldn't live with the half ass high side fitting that I had to grind the flange off of. The correct fitting that will definitely get the job done is the right angle 3/16 high side retrofit adapter. Napa part number is TEM 801405. it was about 8$. I was able to return the adapters that I bought that didn't fit the high side. For the low side 7/16 works for that and I didn't need a right angle for that side the standard straight retrofit adapter works on there. I put some permatex thread sealant on the service fittings as well because you need to remove the Schrader valves from the compressor manifold and the fittings have their own Schrader valves installed so I put some thread sealer as extra insurance from leaks.

outdoorjunky

I got it done and charged. I ran into an issue with the compressor not kicking on so I had to jump it during the charging process but with the compressor jumped I was getting 43 degree air at idle coming from the vents. I did a little troubleshooting and my first step was to check the Amplifier because the part number on the one that the dealer sold me was different than what I pulled out of the truck. I thought to myself "I bet this is the wrong amplifier" when I was installing it but I wanted to see if it was just a case of Toyota updating the part number over the years, but it was not the case and as soon as I re-installed the original amplifier the system kicked right on immediately when I pressed the AC button. Under load the AC blows about 39 degrees at the vent. I'm pretty happy with the results, I just hope it holds up. I guess the lesson here is that sometimes it's better to follow the mantra "if it ain't broke don't fix it". I didn't really need the new Amplifier.

mholme

Good job and congrats. I didn’t drive my truck for a few months and the first thing I did after it started was turn on the AC in the middle of winter to make sure it kicked on.