12V outlet wiring options
#1
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12V outlet wiring options
hello all
(obligatory disclaimer: yes, i did search. i found situations which weren't analogous to what i'm trying to do and that's the reason for the new thread.)
i'm in the process of installing a converted 4runner center console - converted because the under the lid storage has been gutted and is large enough to hold a 12V outlet and antenna connector for my midland 75-822 cb (and keep it away from prying eyes).
i want to mount a second toyota OEM cigarette lighter/12V outlet (from junkyard) inside the storage compartment (for the CB to plug into) and i'm looking into options on the wiring.
i know i can run a thicker gauge direct to the battery but can i get away with (safely) piggy-backing off of the original cig lighter/12V on my truck (with inline fuse)? the second outlet (the one inside the console) will only be used for the CB which is not exactly an energy hog and the stock plug will power my GPS. i'm not going to plug in a mini fridge or anything crazy into the center console and, again, it is mostly meant as theft deterrent as it will allow me to stash the midland inside the arm rest lid of the console. wiring experts, any safety concerns? thanks
(obligatory disclaimer: yes, i did search. i found situations which weren't analogous to what i'm trying to do and that's the reason for the new thread.)
i'm in the process of installing a converted 4runner center console - converted because the under the lid storage has been gutted and is large enough to hold a 12V outlet and antenna connector for my midland 75-822 cb (and keep it away from prying eyes).
i want to mount a second toyota OEM cigarette lighter/12V outlet (from junkyard) inside the storage compartment (for the CB to plug into) and i'm looking into options on the wiring.
i know i can run a thicker gauge direct to the battery but can i get away with (safely) piggy-backing off of the original cig lighter/12V on my truck (with inline fuse)? the second outlet (the one inside the console) will only be used for the CB which is not exactly an energy hog and the stock plug will power my GPS. i'm not going to plug in a mini fridge or anything crazy into the center console and, again, it is mostly meant as theft deterrent as it will allow me to stash the midland inside the arm rest lid of the console. wiring experts, any safety concerns? thanks
#2
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I would personally use a relay to control it. What are you going to be running of of this outlet? Anything with a high amperage draw?
If so: Grab a 4 post relay, some 12 or 14awg wire (10 if you're drawing a LOT), bring a red, fused wire in from the battery to post 30 on the relay. Run the positive side of the cigarette lighter to terminal 87, the negative side of the cig lighter to a good ground.
Do you want it ACC controlled? If yes- run 86 to ground, and 85 to any 12v accessory source that's hot with the key on ACC.
When your key is on ACC, cig lighter will be hot, and be able to handle a good amount of current. Always make sure that power wire from the battery to terminal 30 is fused very close to the battery.
Edit: just read your whole post. Running a CB + GPS off the stock cig wiring is fine. In any case, if you DID want to run a mini-fridge, my above description would get you there. LOL.
If so: Grab a 4 post relay, some 12 or 14awg wire (10 if you're drawing a LOT), bring a red, fused wire in from the battery to post 30 on the relay. Run the positive side of the cigarette lighter to terminal 87, the negative side of the cig lighter to a good ground.
Do you want it ACC controlled? If yes- run 86 to ground, and 85 to any 12v accessory source that's hot with the key on ACC.
When your key is on ACC, cig lighter will be hot, and be able to handle a good amount of current. Always make sure that power wire from the battery to terminal 30 is fused very close to the battery.
Edit: just read your whole post. Running a CB + GPS off the stock cig wiring is fine. In any case, if you DID want to run a mini-fridge, my above description would get you there. LOL.
Last edited by shaeff; 05-19-2011 at 10:57 AM.
#3
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No problem that I could see by tapping the lead to the existing cig socket. That's protected by a 15A fuse in the drivers kick fuse block, so no need to use an additional fuse. By the way, the OEM cig sockets have a little L-shaped fusible link in the back. I managed to blow that FL by running an air compressor, even though I was using the rated 15A fuse. Why the FL blew before the fuse, IDK, but it did. That was a PITA to replace, so definitely be sure there's nothing higher than a 15A fuse in the fuse block.
The only reason to run a separate wire is if you intend to run more than 15A total between the two sockets at the same time.
The only reason to run a separate wire is if you intend to run more than 15A total between the two sockets at the same time.
#4
I vote separate fused 12 g wire from batt; why not have a second, unswitched path that can be used without the ignition switch turned on or to ACC. You can get nice rubber 12 cig sockets with rubber-like tethered caps at the boat supply store. Of course, you'll have to remember to turn the radio off...
#6
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Im no electrical guy but from my experiance. Hard wire your CB, both + and - to the battery for less static. So when your listening to truckers fight and you turn your wipers on it doesnt get staticy*.
#7
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I also think the lighter socket is not needed unless at times you will want to use for plugging other devices in. If you need to remove the radio most I have seen just plug the power cord in the back it has been a few years though.
I would just run a fused hot wire and a good ground the one on the left door post comes to mind.
You can buy power sockets almost any place these days
I would just run a fused hot wire and a good ground the one on the left door post comes to mind.
You can buy power sockets almost any place these days
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#8
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yeah, thought about that too but one of the reasons i bought this thing was so that, in the event that i ever wanted to, i could take it out of my truck and use it in our other vehicle. the plug is a compromise at this point.
#9
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again, the whole compromise thing is true here also but it is also true that in my limited time running this thing the static issue didn't present a problem.
#10
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shaeff has it right. relay to the extra socket plus a fuse. and tyler-h is right as well. since the spark plugs, wiper motor, and most other loads discharge through the body, it is "noisy". running directly from the positive and negative will help tremendously (something i need to do)
also, great idea on putting the outlet in for easy portability. i, uh... might have to borrow that one...
also, great idea on putting the outlet in for easy portability. i, uh... might have to borrow that one...
#11
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I vote separate fused 12 g wire from batt; why not have a second, unswitched path that can be used without the ignition switch turned on or to ACC. You can get nice rubber 12 cig sockets with rubber-like tethered caps at the boat supply store. Of course, you'll have to remember to turn the radio off...
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