84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

Wiring a power inverter

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-14-2009 | 06:59 PM
  #1  
TinMan's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 832
Likes: 0
From: Eastern NC
Wiring a power inverter

I've had a 750w power inverter laying around the garage for a number of years. Used a few times hooked directly to the battery with large algator clips on camping trips. I figure it might work out pretty well mounted into the back of my runner. So I have a few questions.

1. I picked a few spools of different color 12ga 600v braided wire. Will this be sufficient to handle a load?

2. There is not a data plate on it, and i dont have the destructions. What amp inline fuse should I put into it? 15 or 20amp.

3. Were should I draw the power from?

I would like to run power to the back like 4Crawler did in his power window posts. But my after market window switches are lighted, so I had to put the relay back in.

I know running it out the firewall and to the battery is a good option, but I do not really want to, I like the engine compartment to look clean and stock.

I plan to mount it to some aluminum diamond plate, and mount it to the roll bar on the down tube were there are bolt holes. Anyone know what size bolt and thread pitch those are.

The area under my radio is open, so I plan to put a diamond plate cover there, with a switch for the power inverter, and a hole for a AFM.

From the inverter I had thought about running a small extention cord up to the console.

Once again any help is greatly appreaciated.

On another note, has anyone had any experience with this.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...&r=5831_286661

I though about mounting that to the other side with a small tank, gauge and manifold.
Old 09-14-2009 | 07:40 PM
  #2  
myyota's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,166
Likes: 11
From: GrangeVille, Idaho
12 gauge wire even though its rated at 600 volts is to small, and over time it will heat up and melt, causing a short. I would recomend that you go with 4 or 6 gauge wire with a fuse as close to the battery as possible, and you shouldn`t have any problems.

I don`t have any experience with that compresor from harbor freight, but for the price its worth buying.

Last edited by myyota; 09-14-2009 at 07:44 PM.
Old 09-14-2009 | 08:25 PM
  #3  
4Crawler's Avatar
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,817
Likes: 31
From: SF Bay Area, CA
Looks like the compressor pulls 14-15 amps. For the inverter, 750/12 = 62.5 amps (at full load), x23 on the 4-6 gauge wire.
Old 09-14-2009 | 08:45 PM
  #4  
bigtrucknwheels's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,336
Likes: 2
From: Where it always works if you work it, in Sunny Selinsgrove, PA
Originally Posted by tmcorbin
I've had a 750w power inverter laying around the garage for a number of years. Used a few times hooked directly to the battery with large algator clips on camping trips. I figure it might work out pretty well mounted into the back of my runner. So I have a few questions.

1. I picked a few spools of different color 12ga 600v braided wire. Will this be sufficient to handle a load?

2. There is not a data plate on it, and i dont have the destructions. What amp inline fuse should I put into it? 15 or 20amp.

3. Were should I draw the power from?

I would like to run power to the back like 4Crawler did in his power window posts. But my after market window switches are lighted, so I had to put the relay back in.

I know running it out the firewall and to the battery is a good option, but I do not really want to, I like the engine compartment to look clean and stock.

I plan to mount it to some aluminum diamond plate, and mount it to the roll bar on the down tube were there are bolt holes. Anyone know what size bolt and thread pitch those are.

The area under my radio is open, so I plan to put a diamond plate cover there, with a switch for the power inverter, and a hole for a AFM.

From the inverter I had thought about running a small extention cord up to the console.

Once again any help is greatly appreaciated.

On another note, has anyone had any experience with this.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...&r=5831_286661

I though about mounting that to the other side with a small tank, gauge and manifold.
You really need to use a #4 wire... (750W/12V = 62.5A) A number six will carry it, but will get decently warm.. I see that you said you had a cable assembly of 12 gauge wires. If it is a bundle of three #12's, using all three wires, you will be able to carry the current.

regarding a fuse size, you'll want to go with a 70A fuse, as mentioned before, mounted as close to the battery as reasonably possible.
Old 09-14-2009 | 09:03 PM
  #5  
stormin94's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,222
Likes: 4
From: Lake County, CA/Sacramento
I've planned on this too............

Although I never ended up doing it, at least not quite yet.

Here's my thread, theres lots of good information in it:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-dc-ac-139154/
Old 09-15-2009 | 04:39 PM
  #6  
TinMan's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 832
Likes: 0
From: Eastern NC
Thanks for the answers, this site is great.

Just a quick internet search for 4ga wire did not come up with much.

http://www.wiringproducts.com

This site sells 4ga flexable welding cable. They also have inline 70amp fuses. It all looks like it should cost about $100.00.

I doubt very seriously I would ever run the inverter at full throttle. Mostly just to charge things like a blue tooth head set and the kids video games.

I'll put it on the projects list, but this payday is a knuckle rebuild kit from marlin crawlers.

Once again thanks for the answers. They may have saved me from burning my truck up or smoking something important.

Stormin94 that is a good thread,
Old 09-15-2009 | 05:19 PM
  #7  
myyota's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,166
Likes: 11
From: GrangeVille, Idaho
I just bought 20' of 4 gauge battery cable from a local auto parts store and it cost me about 47.00 dollars, plus another 15.00 dollars for terminal ends and shrink wrap.
Old 09-15-2009 | 06:32 PM
  #8  
TinMan's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 832
Likes: 0
From: Eastern NC
What about something like this, cheap, looks easy to instal, and may be able run multiple other items off it once instaled in the rear of the truck.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2117928

later
Old 09-16-2009 | 07:07 PM
  #9  
myyota's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,166
Likes: 11
From: GrangeVille, Idaho
That looks like it should work.
Old 09-16-2009 | 07:47 PM
  #10  
James Dean's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 606
Likes: 4
From: Tucson, AZ
I ran a 2oht wire from my front to my rear battery just to make sure. 17' with sealed crimp connectors at each end cost me $125. I figure it's better than having a 17' plasma cutter lighting up my ride because of a short or meltdown. A have air pumps, stereo, KC lights and an inverter running off mine. Remember it's always better to go overkill. I would go with at least 4, unless you plan on running other things as well then go 2.

Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Sleaker
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
17
08-26-2020 06:03 AM
keithporter83
Pre 84 Trucks
1
07-24-2015 07:37 AM
luckypig44
Newbie Tech Section
4
07-19-2015 11:25 AM
Johntom240
General Electrical & Lighting Related Topics
7
07-13-2015 12:18 AM
nick b
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
4
07-11-2015 04:38 AM



Quick Reply: Wiring a power inverter



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:40 AM.