Wiring a power inverter
#1
Wiring a power inverter
I've had a 750w power inverter laying around the garage for a number of years. Used a few times hooked directly to the battery with large algator clips on camping trips. I figure it might work out pretty well mounted into the back of my runner. So I have a few questions.
1. I picked a few spools of different color 12ga 600v braided wire. Will this be sufficient to handle a load?
2. There is not a data plate on it, and i dont have the destructions. What amp inline fuse should I put into it? 15 or 20amp.
3. Were should I draw the power from?
I would like to run power to the back like 4Crawler did in his power window posts. But my after market window switches are lighted, so I had to put the relay back in.
I know running it out the firewall and to the battery is a good option, but I do not really want to, I like the engine compartment to look clean and stock.
I plan to mount it to some aluminum diamond plate, and mount it to the roll bar on the down tube were there are bolt holes. Anyone know what size bolt and thread pitch those are.
The area under my radio is open, so I plan to put a diamond plate cover there, with a switch for the power inverter, and a hole for a AFM.
From the inverter I had thought about running a small extention cord up to the console.
Once again any help is greatly appreaciated.
On another note, has anyone had any experience with this.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...&r=5831_286661
I though about mounting that to the other side with a small tank, gauge and manifold.
1. I picked a few spools of different color 12ga 600v braided wire. Will this be sufficient to handle a load?
2. There is not a data plate on it, and i dont have the destructions. What amp inline fuse should I put into it? 15 or 20amp.
3. Were should I draw the power from?
I would like to run power to the back like 4Crawler did in his power window posts. But my after market window switches are lighted, so I had to put the relay back in.
I know running it out the firewall and to the battery is a good option, but I do not really want to, I like the engine compartment to look clean and stock.
I plan to mount it to some aluminum diamond plate, and mount it to the roll bar on the down tube were there are bolt holes. Anyone know what size bolt and thread pitch those are.
The area under my radio is open, so I plan to put a diamond plate cover there, with a switch for the power inverter, and a hole for a AFM.
From the inverter I had thought about running a small extention cord up to the console.
Once again any help is greatly appreaciated.
On another note, has anyone had any experience with this.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...&r=5831_286661
I though about mounting that to the other side with a small tank, gauge and manifold.
#2
12 gauge wire even though its rated at 600 volts is to small, and over time it will heat up and melt, causing a short. I would recomend that you go with 4 or 6 gauge wire with a fuse as close to the battery as possible, and you shouldn`t have any problems.
I don`t have any experience with that compresor from harbor freight, but for the price its worth buying.
I don`t have any experience with that compresor from harbor freight, but for the price its worth buying.
Last edited by myyota; 09-14-2009 at 07:44 PM.
#4
Contributing Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,336
Likes: 2
From: Where it always works if you work it, in Sunny Selinsgrove, PA
I've had a 750w power inverter laying around the garage for a number of years. Used a few times hooked directly to the battery with large algator clips on camping trips. I figure it might work out pretty well mounted into the back of my runner. So I have a few questions.
1. I picked a few spools of different color 12ga 600v braided wire. Will this be sufficient to handle a load?
2. There is not a data plate on it, and i dont have the destructions. What amp inline fuse should I put into it? 15 or 20amp.
3. Were should I draw the power from?
I would like to run power to the back like 4Crawler did in his power window posts. But my after market window switches are lighted, so I had to put the relay back in.
I know running it out the firewall and to the battery is a good option, but I do not really want to, I like the engine compartment to look clean and stock.
I plan to mount it to some aluminum diamond plate, and mount it to the roll bar on the down tube were there are bolt holes. Anyone know what size bolt and thread pitch those are.
The area under my radio is open, so I plan to put a diamond plate cover there, with a switch for the power inverter, and a hole for a AFM.
From the inverter I had thought about running a small extention cord up to the console.
Once again any help is greatly appreaciated.
On another note, has anyone had any experience with this.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...&r=5831_286661
I though about mounting that to the other side with a small tank, gauge and manifold.
1. I picked a few spools of different color 12ga 600v braided wire. Will this be sufficient to handle a load?
2. There is not a data plate on it, and i dont have the destructions. What amp inline fuse should I put into it? 15 or 20amp.
3. Were should I draw the power from?
I would like to run power to the back like 4Crawler did in his power window posts. But my after market window switches are lighted, so I had to put the relay back in.
I know running it out the firewall and to the battery is a good option, but I do not really want to, I like the engine compartment to look clean and stock.
I plan to mount it to some aluminum diamond plate, and mount it to the roll bar on the down tube were there are bolt holes. Anyone know what size bolt and thread pitch those are.
The area under my radio is open, so I plan to put a diamond plate cover there, with a switch for the power inverter, and a hole for a AFM.
From the inverter I had thought about running a small extention cord up to the console.
Once again any help is greatly appreaciated.
On another note, has anyone had any experience with this.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...&r=5831_286661
I though about mounting that to the other side with a small tank, gauge and manifold.
regarding a fuse size, you'll want to go with a 70A fuse, as mentioned before, mounted as close to the battery as reasonably possible.
#5
I've planned on this too............
Although I never ended up doing it, at least not quite yet.
Here's my thread, theres lots of good information in it:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-dc-ac-139154/
Although I never ended up doing it, at least not quite yet.
Here's my thread, theres lots of good information in it:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-dc-ac-139154/
#6
Thanks for the answers, this site is great.
Just a quick internet search for 4ga wire did not come up with much.
http://www.wiringproducts.com
This site sells 4ga flexable welding cable. They also have inline 70amp fuses. It all looks like it should cost about $100.00.
I doubt very seriously I would ever run the inverter at full throttle. Mostly just to charge things like a blue tooth head set and the kids video games.
I'll put it on the projects list, but this payday is a knuckle rebuild kit from marlin crawlers.
Once again thanks for the answers. They may have saved me from burning my truck up or smoking something important.
Stormin94 that is a good thread,
Just a quick internet search for 4ga wire did not come up with much.
http://www.wiringproducts.com
This site sells 4ga flexable welding cable. They also have inline 70amp fuses. It all looks like it should cost about $100.00.
I doubt very seriously I would ever run the inverter at full throttle. Mostly just to charge things like a blue tooth head set and the kids video games.
I'll put it on the projects list, but this payday is a knuckle rebuild kit from marlin crawlers.
Once again thanks for the answers. They may have saved me from burning my truck up or smoking something important.
Stormin94 that is a good thread,
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#8
What about something like this, cheap, looks easy to instal, and may be able run multiple other items off it once instaled in the rear of the truck.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2117928
later
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2117928
later
#10
I ran a 2oht wire from my front to my rear battery just to make sure. 17' with sealed crimp connectors at each end cost me $125. I figure it's better than having a 17' plasma cutter lighting up my ride because of a short or meltdown. A have air pumps, stereo, KC lights and an inverter running off mine. Remember it's always better to go overkill. I would go with at least 4, unless you plan on running other things as well then go 2.
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