So as I'm going through this truck and I keep on finding wires that lead to nothing I am beginning to believe pull A/C wiring hookup with no A/C as a components that are wired up but not necessary that these unnecessary wires confuses that aren't necessary that I should probably at some point stop trying to rewire and start from scratch correct? Trying to keep it as original as possible but I don't think I can anymore I have too many things that I would need to cut out and that means I'm going to be wearing out multimeter batteries before I get this done. Should I just start over and make my own fuse block I'm literally looking at dozens and dozens of wires. And my, dash combination meter or instrument panel only has two sensor pin slots used, charge and I believe oil pressure. I believe that might make a lot of the EFI pins that might not be actually reading anything screw with what's actually wrong with the truck causing stalling. Have I said anything wrong that needs correcting?

 

Alright, I am confused.

Just what exactly is your problem? Start from the beginning.

Is your wiring harnesses all cut up or are they still intact?

 

I legitimately suck at talking. My Borderline Personality makes that and impulsiveness an issue. My harness is in the truck, short of a couple wires clipped the only thing I have done is remove the fusible links and fuse box. I cut these out thinking all I need is reference and the ability to reconnect the wires if anything went wrong. But it wasn't until I tore into the nonexistent A/C that I discovered exactly what I got myself into.

See it started out just by replacing the carburetor, but that did not fix my idling or stalling problem. And that voltage reading I'm not sure if this is actually supposed to be the case maybe it is and I just was an idiot and impulsive but I don't think that voltage is supposed to continuously change when taking readings and there's no real set number for anywhere you're testing. It's in the ballpark of where it should be but it will fluctuate by climbing far past but it would be supposed to be reading at starting up so if I had a device that was like say for instance One bowl they would go from like .8 volts to 1.3 volts then back to .8. as far as I'm aware I don't believe that any setting should get a reading like that right?

 

Where, exactly are you taking the voltage readings (what are you touching with the multimeter probes)?

Posting some pictures of what you are doing might be helpful.

Is the engine running when you are taking the voltage readings?

What made you think you have an electrical problem?

A good battery should read right around 12.6V with the engine off and 13V - 15V with the engine running.

 

Posting pictures now would not help, at least not at this moment, still trying to clean it so I can take pictures actually. But it wouldn't matter what it was I was taking a reading of everything was doing that it's like the ground itself or to chassis or whatever it was that was connected was like powered on and going through a cycle of some kind. Now the battery read fine. It was a little bit low but it was still starting before I took the battery out. It would start up after a little hesitation but it would giving me different problems. Some days it took forever to start other days it would start to stall after days it would completely stall when I took my foot of the gas. And considering that the carburetor is responsible for idling and starting actually given the choke system from what I understand, I figured that maybe the electrical could still be causing a problem in the carburetor even if it is new. But there was one other problem I haven't thought of in a while, when I would try to get the carburetor to work before replacing it I tried cleaning it and I saw a video that you can spray a little bits of carburetor cleaner or at least some kind of spray I imagine it was carburetor cleaner into the air intake and it would kind of rev up. Mine did not, it hesitated, or even stalled entirely. But I'll get some pictures in the morning after I cleaned up cuz I literally have torn this interior apart looking for anything else missing. Or unnecessary. My thought was that if there were components that were never there, maybe it might balance out if I took out some wires for some components that are no longer necessary given that they're all the same thing but I never knew if that would have worked in the first place. I originally started the electrical thinking I might have to start from scratch. I think I guessed right. But just consider what a standard base pickup looks like with 80-90% of the cab interior torn out. And there you have it that's what my truck looks like.
​​​​​​like. I spent today kind of cleaning so that way I'm not so scattered but the rest of it is pretty much intact, and I started reconnecting wires at the fuse box I figured since I kept on my might as well put it all back together and take it slower one step at a time for now. Cuz I haven't even tested that carburetor yet. Welcome to my brain. I figured out I do not belong working on cars but I ain't giving up.

 

These trucks came from the factory with wiring for optional equipment that the truck may or may not have.

The unused wiring for options your truck does not have does not create any problems. It is completely fine to leave it there.

I think that you should leave the wiring alone for now and put it back to how it was originally. You might be creating more problems than you are solving by attempting to remove wires.

I would go back and focus on the carburetor for now.

Where did the carburetor come from?

Is it a factory replacement Aisan Carburetor, or is it something like a Weber 32/36?