Is it unusual for my truck to have the original motor in it at 251,000 miles and still meet perfect compression with no leaks and have it not burning any oil? Or is that a sign that the motor has been replaced. Keep in mind that the motor looks original and has a lack of power that I haven't been able to completely fix (Motor might be getting tired)

 

Not unusual at all.....

I *think* there is a vin # on the block and/or head somewhere. If you really want to know, it would be worth it to clean the engine down and look for it.

 

I didn't think it was but then I started thinking maybe. Yeah the engine compartment is pretty clean, hasn't seen too much off road time, so I will probably be able to find it when I get home. I think the first time it had seen mud was the first time I took it in the mud, that's how clean it looks.

 

Could have been rebuilt and not necessarily replaced. I've owned several with over 250K than ran like a top after being rebuilt earlier.

 

It runs great but seems a little tired which is why I think it might be original. Besides the previous owner kept all receipts. There is everything from a tranny rebuild a 190,000 miles to smog receipts. But there is no receipt for an engine rebuild or replacement.

 

No need to replace it then when you can rebuild it.

 

my 82 yota has 350.000 on original motor i know because i bought it new in 82

 

Well I'm thinking of rebuilding the motor. What company would you recommend buying a rebuild kit from? Also I've never rebuilt a 22re, about how long does it take to rebuild one? Is there anything I need to pay particularly close attention to when rebuilding one?

 

alternate perspective:

if it has perfect compression, why are you opening that pandora's box? lack of power sensation could be any number of things, including crappy 10% ethanol gas, low tire pressure, clogged air filter...clogged injectors....etc. when's the last time you did a valve check? pull the VC and see how it looks in there. if it's clean, and you've got no leaks at the HG, i'd not fix what wasn't broken.

fyi: engine number stamped on left side of block toward the front, sorta under the distr.

 

I have to agree. If you have this engine rebuilt or do it yourself and get it all back together and have the same clogged injectors (or whatever) causing you troubles you'll be pissed.

I think you mentioned to me that it was so weak you couldn't hardly drive it. Have you done anything to it lately? Besides the compression check.

How are the valves, distributor, cap rotor and wires? Has it been tuned up lately? How does it do at the smog shop?. Got any codes?

 

I've replaced the distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter, fuel pump, cleaned the air filter, decarbonized the motor, cleaned the injector, adjusted the valves, replaced the cat, and I run it usually on 91 octane fuel. I hooked it up to an engine scope at my college and everything checked out. We disconnected the EGR valve and that solved all of my problems at first and then I lost my power again(No I didn't loose it because of the camper shell). When I had my power back I was running 87 octane with techron added in. This tank I am running 87 octane with techron added in and I lost my power again. I have no ideas. I have no DTCs being displayed by the check engine light either. People have told me that maybe the engine is just getting tired. Any ideas?

 

Thats common. Mine has about 250k i rebuilt the head at 240k and everything else is original. Still perfect compression. Although it does burn about a half quart between oil changes

 

ooppss never mind but check your 02 may be going out send bad signals off and on

 

Bought my truck new in '85 and have 230k on the original motor, never rebuilt. Only time the head has been off was when the head gasket leaked at 30k miles.

 

I forgot to add that, I replaced the O2 sensor as well. The engine scope checked vacuum on the motor, the spark intensity, whether or not the coil was working properly, whether or not the spark advance was working, whether or not the injector was working, whether or not each spark plug was working, and what the A/F ratio was. There may have been other things but I don't remember. All of those things checked out. The only thing was that my A/F ratio was at like 16:1, is that normal on a 1980's 4 cylinder economy motor? Because I know that they say, I believe, that 14.5:1(or something close to that) is considered perfect. Then again besides my truck all of my other hobby cars are old american V-8s so I'm not sure what a normal A/F ratio would be on a 4-cyl.

 

You just described my buddy's 84 almost exactly and we know it's all stock. My 85 did too but was leaking oil and didn't have perfect compression. Bottom end is still stock now at almost 270,000 (had 250 when I got it).

 

i will add that i notice a significant power change by gas. i no longer use BP. makes the cycle pop on decel, and makes the truck sluggish. i always try to get chevron. and i add the techron frequently. it was the only gas my old lexus would accept without pinging. and that was premium. i use regs in the runner. how about checking volts to the injectors? how's your timing? maybe bump it a degree? that connector at the distributor is prone to intermittency before it finally craps out too. is that ok, not crudded up?

 

The engine scope is pretty much a giant rolling pc station that graphs electrical currents. The injector is getting the proper voltage at the proper time. Timing is advanced to 7 degrees BTDC. Also no the distributor was distributing the spark perfectly and efficiently. So right now I'm at a loss for words. I've ran it on 91 octane with an octane booster mixed in and it doesn't make a difference. Fuel pressure is great as well. I wonder if somehow my injectors are gummed up again even though I cleaned them just last year and have ran an injector cleaner that actually cleans a few times since?

 

my 89 2wd has 382,000km on the origenal motor and still runs good. burns just a little oil though.

 

Haha, I've never heard gas referred to as regs.

My 84 22r with 149,000 burns 3 qts. per trail run. I think I might need a rebuild. It just goes to show you that when well kept these trucks can last for quite a while without problems or a rebuild, that's just not the case for me. Truck sat for 9 years, then I wheeled the poop outta it. Valve stem seals, rings, etc. all shot.