Removing lspv
#1
Removing lspv
Hello
I have searched but have not found info on running without an LSPV.
Ive purchased an 84 pickup with a 4 inch allpro and 33's its a bit of a project the previous owner was mid EFI conversion so im finishing that. they also did an updated 4 runner rearend ( wider, Bigger drums) The LSPV is missing and as far as i see the rod is just one more thing to get caught on rocks. My question is can i run the system without the valve. what about a manual prop valve?
Thanks
I have searched but have not found info on running without an LSPV.
Ive purchased an 84 pickup with a 4 inch allpro and 33's its a bit of a project the previous owner was mid EFI conversion so im finishing that. they also did an updated 4 runner rearend ( wider, Bigger drums) The LSPV is missing and as far as i see the rod is just one more thing to get caught on rocks. My question is can i run the system without the valve. what about a manual prop valve?
Thanks
#2
I know it's not an 84, but I removed mine and added a manual prop valve on my 97 tacoma.
This site helped me out alot http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=186295
My truck is a daily driver, and I have not had a problem running the manual valve.
The only reason you might have a problem with it, is if you tow anything.
I have not towed anything with mine since i removed the LSPV
You cannot run a straight line to the rear, because it will lockup. Your rear only does(correct me if I'm wrong) 20-30% of the braking.
So, you can remove it, but you need to put a manual prop valve in the system.
This site helped me out alot http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=186295
My truck is a daily driver, and I have not had a problem running the manual valve.
The only reason you might have a problem with it, is if you tow anything.
I have not towed anything with mine since i removed the LSPV
You cannot run a straight line to the rear, because it will lockup. Your rear only does(correct me if I'm wrong) 20-30% of the braking.
So, you can remove it, but you need to put a manual prop valve in the system.
#3
here is a thread from Pirate on the LSPV that also has some good information
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=489391
another one:
http://www.4x4spot.com/proportioning.htm
glad that you asked about this, it reminded me that i needed to get off my butt and do something about mine...
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=489391
another one:
http://www.4x4spot.com/proportioning.htm
glad that you asked about this, it reminded me that i needed to get off my butt and do something about mine...
#4
If you run without it your asking for a wreck.
Search Disc Brake Conversion or click on the link in my signature and scroll down and find the link to my disc brake conversion thread... go to it, then link to elvotas writeup to find the part # for the manual LSPV from summit racing.
either get another stocker LSPV or get the manual, dont run without, you put yourself and everyone on the road in danger of becoming another statistic. Bottom line its plain out right stupid.
Search Disc Brake Conversion or click on the link in my signature and scroll down and find the link to my disc brake conversion thread... go to it, then link to elvotas writeup to find the part # for the manual LSPV from summit racing.
either get another stocker LSPV or get the manual, dont run without, you put yourself and everyone on the road in danger of becoming another statistic. Bottom line its plain out right stupid.
#5
doesn't putting in the proportioning valve (properly adjusted) negate the need for the LSPV?
I am thinking that with the amount of lift and flex I expect from the new rear suspension i will install on my '81 that that LSPV rod will not work correctly or be long enough..
I am at work right now on break, but I will take a closer look at your thread (and Elvota's) when I get home...quick glances it looks like a good read..
I am thinking that with the amount of lift and flex I expect from the new rear suspension i will install on my '81 that that LSPV rod will not work correctly or be long enough..
I am at work right now on break, but I will take a closer look at your thread (and Elvota's) when I get home...quick glances it looks like a good read..
#6
#7
as an alternate to elliminating the valve (way bad idea) or installing a manual lspv (better idea), you could extend the bracket on the axle that the rod connects to according to how much of a lift there is.
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#8
i Pretty much figured running with nothihng wouldnt work i more wanted some input on the manual valve with as soft as my rear springs are i dont think i will be towing anything. so i think im going with the manual set up.
Thanks for the input
Thanks for the input
#9
Don't mean to raise the dead here, but I stumbled across this while searching. So I'm doing a SAS on my 87 4Runner and getting ready to bleed the brakes when I realized i forgot about the PV. I assumed that the rear lift would tweak with the PV being as it sits a little higher now, so I decided to do a little searching. Do I just raise the rod on the axle side an inch for every inch of lift to put at a stock somewhat setting again?
Couple years ago I made the mistake of bypassing the valve on my bagged 90' Toyota while I was cleaning up the frame for my link install. Big mistake! The rears lockup with the slightest touch, and my back end is already light enough from cutting out the center for the notch and link bars.
Couple years ago I made the mistake of bypassing the valve on my bagged 90' Toyota while I was cleaning up the frame for my link install. Big mistake! The rears lockup with the slightest touch, and my back end is already light enough from cutting out the center for the notch and link bars.
Last edited by ToyotaDude; 12-29-2011 at 02:57 PM.
#11
I know old dead thread but I am running TG's rear disk conversion on my 85 4runner without any proportioning valve, and it's doing fine. I have not had the wheels lock up yet, pedal is firm, and braking is very smooth. Brake stats are - TG rear disk conversion, IFS front calipers, FJ vented front rotors, 1inch bore MC, and stock 85 brake booster. Used Elvota's method of removing the return brake line from the rear. So basically have one dedicated circuit to the front and one to the rear.
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