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rattle after new timing chain

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Old 11-08-2011, 06:51 PM
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rattle after new timing chain

So i just put a new timing chain and metal guides on my 22re, but the dam thing still rattles. It mainly rattles when i let of the gas. Is it possible that it stretched already?
Old 11-08-2011, 06:55 PM
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did you replace the tensioner as well? it is oil pressure driven and could be worn out allowing slack?
Old 11-09-2011, 07:32 PM
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Okay well i didnt know your suppose to prime the oil pump when u do the timing chain.. but ive been driving it around town about 20 miles. Talked to a mechanic buddy and said there's a check valve next to the oil pump that i can stretch the spring to allow more pressure to build up. might try that, oh yeah its all new timing kit from Engnbldr.
Old 11-09-2011, 07:38 PM
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I know this sounds stupid ...but...if you overtorque your valve cover (7in.lbs? i think) it will make alot of noise,i know this from stupidity, i mean experience.
Old 11-09-2011, 08:49 PM
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nah dont think its the valve cover it sounds like chain slack. Does any one know what goes wrong if you dont prime the oil pump when u reinstall it..?
Old 11-11-2011, 07:34 PM
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well i dug back into it and i think i got a defective tensioner. The drivers side has no tightness to it, it has like an inch of slack... so i guess i getta do it over...
Old 11-11-2011, 07:49 PM
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ive been having this problem for a while now after I rebuilt my motor a year ago. the chain has alot of slack. I think i have an oil pressure problem
Old 11-12-2011, 01:54 AM
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there is a longer bolt for the oil pump that many people install in the wrong spot. When they do this it goes through the timing cover and pinches the tensioner so it cannot move. You may be able to see if thats what you've done by looking from up top.
Old 11-12-2011, 11:42 AM
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yeah it was a sticking into the cover a mm or two so backed it out. IM gonna crank it to tdc and see how much slacks their, I really dont wanna redo it. Im thiinking some crud might be blocking the tensioner oil passage... but no oil light. Ill try a higher weight oil like 20w maybe although its winter...
Old 11-12-2011, 11:43 AM
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oh yeah when i took the valve cover off i could see that the chain was hitting the two driver side guide bolts, is that a sign of too much slack?
Old 11-12-2011, 11:53 AM
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Just to let you know, when you turn the engine off you loose oil pressure and thus quite a bit of tension on the chain, but this is only on the passenger side. Are you sure you lined the timing marks on the chain properly? As that thing even with no oil pressure should be quite taught on the drivers side. As It can be somewhat difficult to even get the cam gear on with a brand new chain.

Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 11-12-2011 at 11:56 AM.
Old 11-12-2011, 12:39 PM
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heres my cam sprocket and tdc with everything lined up , sorry its a cell phone pic. iirc the crank dimple is in the middle of the shiny link. It looks right to me but it didnt help in tightening the chain any, I am running 5w30 could this be my culprit???
Attached Thumbnails rattle after new timing chain-1321132966061.jpg  
Old 11-12-2011, 12:42 PM
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that looks right but what about the bottom link as well?

And now that I am thinking about it, I never thought of this before now, but anyone know if these links are centered top and bottom, because if not I can see it being possible to put the chain on "inside out". Unless that bright link is only on one side of the link and not the other.

I kinda feel like a newb right now. lol.

Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 11-12-2011 at 12:44 PM.
Old 11-12-2011, 12:51 PM
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you think you feel like a newb lol. nah i think its shiny on both sides. the dimple on the bottom was a little to the left if i rememeber but its been awhile
Old 11-12-2011, 01:11 PM
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I've done many chains, but never ever thought of it being uncentered and put on "inside out" if that makes sense. But both bright links MUST line up on the top and bottom sprockets. And like I said that driver side should even when you first install it will make it a little tricky to get the upper sprocket on in most cases.

This might help. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

Old 11-12-2011, 04:04 PM
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yeah i followed those instruction but i had the head off so couldnt put the sprocket on, i put guides on then the tensioner. Alright took it for a drive and its weird, the rattle is really noticeable at idle but when you rev it up a lil its gone.. Also, when i gas it i hear it or something similiar to it, heard the air box sounds like it... Could it be the rod bearings??
Old 11-13-2011, 12:03 AM
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Take a video and upload to photobucket then post the link here
Old 11-14-2011, 05:08 PM
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ill try and get a video tomorrow, i was driving it around a lil more, When it is cold no noise at idle but once its warm it rattles like a mofo at idle, but goes away when you gas it but still hear some kind of rattle... Im thinking something is up with my oil pressure gonna try a heavier oil weight before i dig into it. Any suggestions on oils, It does have 217+ miles
Old 11-14-2011, 05:47 PM
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I wouldn't be driving that thing around till I found the cause of that rattle.

On that note, what do you mean by "Im thinking something is up with my oil pressure" ?

And once again, are you positive that the lower dimple on the cam gear is correct? I wouldn't take for granted you did it right the first time and take the timing cover off. There is absolutely nothing that should cause that drivers side to be "limp". Especially with a new chain. How difficult was it to get that upper sprocket on?
Old 11-14-2011, 06:09 PM
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You said you run 5W oil. And that when its cold, no noise. Warm its noisy. Have you tried any 10W oil? I put 250 miles a day on my '84 22R, and I run 10W-40 Castrol. It just sounds like a 22R sewing machine... with a slight valve tap, exhaust leak, and ragged tires...

My oil pressure is at 60psi when running 2500 RPM or higher. 20psi at idle. Have you checked your oil pressure?


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