Planning my timing chain replacement on my '84 2wd
#1
Planning my timing chain replacement on my '84 2wd
Hey guys,
1st post here in like 10+ years!
My 84 2wd long bed 5 speed 22r needs a timing chain. Its got 235K miles on the original chain, and I think it was supposed to be changed about 100K miles ago. I am hearing what I believe is the chain rubbing the plastic guide. Since the noise started, I have not driven the truck much for fear of that plastic guide breaking off and the chain rubbing a hole in the block.
I have read that I can retrofit a double roller chain by changing the sprocket and pump gears, and then trimming a splash guard under the valve cover.
My question is, is that necessary, or should I just go back with a factory single roller chain and metal guide?
I was also planning to pull the head, have it resurfaced and crack checked, then put a new head gasket on there. However, some things I read while searching this forum last night made me question whether I should do that. I don’t think I have any head gasket problems. Coolant does leak out over time, but Im pretty sure it’s from the lower radiator hose. No coolant in the oil or anything like that. So now, my plan has shifted to NOT pulling the head.
My engine leaks oil like crazy. I have replaced the seal on the front of the pump, but new timing cover and oil pan gaskets will do it wonders. Are there any other gaskets I should replace “while I’m at it”?
Any recommendations on where to get the kit from? I was thinking about ordering from yodashop.com.
Thanks!
James
1st post here in like 10+ years!
My 84 2wd long bed 5 speed 22r needs a timing chain. Its got 235K miles on the original chain, and I think it was supposed to be changed about 100K miles ago. I am hearing what I believe is the chain rubbing the plastic guide. Since the noise started, I have not driven the truck much for fear of that plastic guide breaking off and the chain rubbing a hole in the block.
I have read that I can retrofit a double roller chain by changing the sprocket and pump gears, and then trimming a splash guard under the valve cover.
My question is, is that necessary, or should I just go back with a factory single roller chain and metal guide?
I was also planning to pull the head, have it resurfaced and crack checked, then put a new head gasket on there. However, some things I read while searching this forum last night made me question whether I should do that. I don’t think I have any head gasket problems. Coolant does leak out over time, but Im pretty sure it’s from the lower radiator hose. No coolant in the oil or anything like that. So now, my plan has shifted to NOT pulling the head.
My engine leaks oil like crazy. I have replaced the seal on the front of the pump, but new timing cover and oil pan gaskets will do it wonders. Are there any other gaskets I should replace “while I’m at it”?
Any recommendations on where to get the kit from? I was thinking about ordering from yodashop.com.
Thanks!
James
#2
this guy made a nice video series on that job. It Was a big help during my engine rebuild. I like the idea of leaving the bottom half of the intake on and exhaust manifold but my back wouldn't. Maybe an engine hoist or a helper. If you should change your mind about pulling the head.
22RE performance is a good place for OEM gaskets and parts.
Last edited by Damion812; 12-02-2020 at 08:44 AM.
The following users liked this post:
5 Fists (12-02-2020)
#3
Axlemans videos are great, he's on Yotatech as arlindsay1992. I followed his rear wheel bearing replacement video a few months back, made it very easy to tackle.
Last edited by 5 Fists; 12-02-2020 at 11:24 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Damion812 (12-02-2020)
#4
Axlemans videos are great, he's on Yotatech as arlindsay1992. I followed his rear wheel bearing replacement video a few months back, made it very east to tackle.
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