Please let me know what you think. I really want to be done with this cause im in the middle of a headliner project in my car and lifting a buddys runner.....I thought it was going to be quick and painless.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...p-guys-129155/

 

Put your old cluster back in and find yourself an 85 and 87 wiring diagrams. From there, you can determine if the 87 will work in your 85. Toyota did a wiring change from 86 to 87....which may be your problem.

 

Search ToyotaNation for information on the swap. I'm pretty sure that is where I found the tech article and pictures to show how to cram your new tach wire into the right part of the plug on the back of the cluster. I guess you know to run a wire through the firewall from the cluster to where the ignition coil is, there by the coil shall ye find an empty green plug of a single wire, use a spade connector on your new wire to plug in to it. I used the cluster from a 1988 4Runner SR5 V-6 in my 1985 2wd base truck. I had to recalibrate the tach for the 4 cylinder (you take the cluster apart, remove the speedo so you have access to the side of the tach where the potentiometer is, temporarily set the cluster in place, run the vehicle with an accurate rev counter/dwell meter, and adjust the tach out.) I also replaced the oil pressure sending unit with the gauge type to replace my idiot light model before putting in the cluster. The idiot light sending unit will ruin the oil pressure gauge if left in. The gas gauge works perfectly, so I suspect your new gas gauge is stuck. If your cluster came out of a wrecked truck that has been in the junk yard for a while, like mine was, I strongly recommend taking each gauge out of the cluster and going after them with contact cleaner. Best of luck to you.

 

I found the link to the gauge swap page...

http://www.humboldt.edu/~pke1/Truck/

Good luck!

 

Ok so I have an 84 pickup and took gauges out of an 87 pickup and had a similar problem to what you describe with your fuel gauge. what I had to do to fix it was pretty simple, its in this thread. I also had to move the oil pressure pin too cause it wasn't reading oil pressure on the gauge, I hope that you have the sr5 style oil pressure sending unit or youll fry the gauge. Heres the link, hope it helps.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...talled-110383/

 

ok im going to dig this back up cause im ready to work on it again. I pulled the cluster out for a while so i could get everything in order to swap it.

The fuel gauge after sitting has worked its way back up to the full line and depending on how it sits it will be above that or below the full line. I need to get it to be at empty im thinking to make it all work unless swapping the wires on the plug will pull it down. My stock cluster falls each time i shut the truck off and i hear this one wont but i think to start it should be down with no power going to it right?

I got the oil pressure sender all new bulbs so were ready to rock. If anyone can confirm that the gas gauge should be on E to start or if it matters i will throw it in ASAP. I got a new dash with out cracks and a tippy gauge to throw in so im pretty exited to do it.

Thanks
Russell

 

anyone?

 

So i went through everything i could with the wires and what not. Heres what i have found. The truck pulled the cluster from was an 85efi 4runner and my truck being an 87 dlx longbed the tach goes in the same location and the oil pressure wire is the same too. I read about people with the coolant spike after the cluster swap and what i found from the diagram that was posted above when i tried that i too had that spike. I moved it back and it was fine.

Where i was going... The fuel pressure sender on a few writeups was something listed to swap and my carbed truck and that efi truck SHOULD have different ones. What i read in the manual for an 85 is that the efi trucks and carb trucks read the same resistance at different levels of gas. I cant figure out why this would effect the gauge but today im going out to the yard i got the cluster from and pulling the sender with hopes it cures the issue.

Does anyone have a link to a downloadable pdf for the 87 pick up? I got the 85pdf and would like to compare pin outs for the cluster because it doesnt list color it just lists the spot and what it does.

i read the gauge test on in the manual and it says i should see approx 55ohm and im seeing 57ohm on the test pins and at 4.5v the needle is vibrating at about 4.5v so im about out of ideas other then the sender. The diagrams in the factory manual dont show wiring at the tank for the sender as it does the efi truck.

 

I read it wrong that was cluster specs for cluster w/o tach and with tach is supposed to be between
ig-fu=78ohm
fu-e=156ohm
ig-e=239ohm

so according to the book it says replace fuel receiver gauge. I gotta call out there cause he had another one so i gotta swap em out. I think im going to pig tail that truck for the tach plug and the wiring to compare pinouts.

 

I have an 84 4Runner and did an SR5 cluster swap about 2 weeks ago, I guess i got lucky because it was plug and play, my 4Runner already had the tach wire installed and everything worked the first try. The only problem im having is the oil presure sending unit is bad, it will work for 10-30 seconds and go dead. I have another sending unit but havn`t had time to change it.
As for your gas gauge question, when i turn the key off in my 4Runner the gas gauge stays in the same place, it does not drop to empty and it was the same way on the original gauge cluster. The SR5 cluster i got came out of an 84 SR5 2 wheel drive fuel injected truck.

 

i tested the gauge and its bad.

swap to the oil pressure sender for a gauge and it will be fine. Dont continue to run that or you will burn the cluster up. just unplug it ans swap it next oil change. A new sensor is 15-25 at a parts store. just tell them you need the one with gauge. most trucks were prewired for the goodies but like mine (87DLX carbed cali truck) it has all the interior goodies wired no tach tho