Ive been searching for about a hour and a half trying to find a writeup on how to replace the waterpump. None of the links at the top of this thread for FSM work. I have a 1984 toyota pickup sr5 22r carb'd. Some help please someone. Thanks...

 

www.ncttora.com/fsm

:wabbit2:

 

Once you take the belts, fan, and pulley off its just out with the old in with the new.

Use a new gasket and some permatex, snug the bolts but DO NOT TIGHTEN DOWN.
Wait 2-3 hours for permatext to cure (so there wont be any leaks) then tighten bolts up. re-assemble and your ready to go.

 

So....could a faulty water pump be forceing my coolant through the top of my radiator? Today on cold start up water shot through my cap "i took the cap off" so i know its not the "steam" building pressure because there was no steam it was a cold start up. Im curious if the water pump could even cause this....if not its the head gasket...everything else has been replaced.

 

maybe your thermostat isnt opening...
id change that and the rad cap for peice of mind when doing water pump

 

No..
That happens because your rad is open, and your system is pressurized.
I.e., your water pump is taking water from the bottom of your rad, pumping it through the block to the top, and back through the top of the engine into the rad.
Water likes to take the path of least resistance, therefore, it'll go where theres less pressure until pressure is equalized.

If your water pump is bad, it'll pee coolant out the bottom.

If the thermostat isnt open, water isnt getting pumped through the engine fast.
Hence the reason your engine gets hot at startup.
The thermostat opens up right before the boiling point, to circulate water and allow the engine to warm up.

 

I removed my thermostat to be sure that wasnt the problem. And my water pump doesnt appear to be leaking BUT at idle the truck will over heat if let sit for a while BUT when driving around i can drive it for hours....almost seems as if the waterpump is possibly on its way out and at higher RPMs its effiecient enough to keep it below boiling...idk im pulling my hair out.

 

Fan clutch?

If you dont know the last time any of that was done, i would just go through and put in a new thermostat, waterpump, and a radiator if need be. Its nice to not have to stare at the temp gauge while driving. Definatly worth the money.

 

X2 on the fan clutch. It is the fan (and clutch) at low speeds or stopped that cools the engine. While driving, you have air flowing through the radiator naturally, but when stopped, the fan must pull air through. Easy enough to check:
- http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/techneek/fan_clch.htm

Might just be the bi-metal spring in the center is stuck, I was able to loosen mine once by gently twisting the center metal rod (where the spring connects) with a pair of pliers. It is the spring that turns the rod to stiffen up the clutch as the air heats up. Also, you can add thicker fluid in the clutch for hotter conditions:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/Docs/FanClutch.pdf

But if the fluid has leaked out, then a new clutch is in order. I used a real Aisin clutch from Toyota in mine after having an aftermarket one fail in about a year.

 

x 3 on the fan clutch.

 

Thanks for contributing to the thread.

 

hm...well i guess a fan clutch could be causing my problems....It seems to only overheat at idle , and the overheating is boiling the water causeing steam which is making the radiator build unneeded pressure and overflow , blow out steam....Hmm its making sense now. So can anyone give me a link with a picture of what exactly a fan clutch is. and a place to buy it..=\ hate to sound stupid but i honestly dont know. Also how hard is it to change? I want to get this thing running right so I can restore the body and start addin gears , lockers and LIFT..

 

4crawler's second link seemed to look like one you could use.

 

That ones showing how to replace the fluid or something. I would just replace the whole assembly for piece of mind. Does it just have a few bolts holding it to the rear of the fan? Or how is it attached

 

Yes, bolted to the water pump pulley, 4 small bolts hold it on. Then a hand full of bolt hold the fan to the clutch. Remove water pump/fan belt, remove clutch/fan assembly, remove clutch, put new one in and reassemble.

 

Have you fix the problem? I am having a similar problem with my coolant puking out of the radiator cap; and I have replaced the cap and fan clutch, but still it did not fix the problem.

 

I hope Zach fixed the problem.... because letting it over heat, several times...could lead to bad news if not fixeded.

Mine did this, last year... It was DEFINITELY the radiator. First, the water pump started to fail... replaced it, then NO MORE than 2 days later, Radiator gave up the ghost. Also, I'm wondering why you don't have pressure heading out to the overflow, rather than right out the cap? Don't throw things at me, guys, ...hahaa. Just asking. I once had a bad cap doing this, ...a STANT, grrr, lol. Got a Toy CAP from the junk yard and voila, it allowed coolant to the overflow again.

 

I dont know why the pressure is not going through the overflow, but I do know that there is too much pressure inside the cooling system.

 

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New radiator cap.