Gearing running 38's
01-10-2006, 04:12 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by seaflea
Another vote for ZUK! If you need, I may be able to find you a used 3rd.
01-10-2006, 04:24 PM
#22
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It will still need to be sent to ZUK. The one I have is in my 85 front axle. I think the pinion is broken. Havent taken it apart yet. You would still need to have it regeared.
01-10-2006, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by seaflea
It will still need to be sent to ZUK. The one I have is in my 85 front axle. I think the pinion is broken. Havent taken it apart yet. You would still need to have it regeared.
Why would I need to buy another used 3rd as opposed to just sending him the one I have now? Either one would need the guts replaced, right?
01-10-2006, 04:35 PM
#24
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You are correct. No offense taken. I thought the mechanic was saying you needed a new 3rd and it was going to cost $2100 for it. I was just offerinng up my spare so you didnt have to pay that much.
If you just need a regear, then definately send it to ZUK.
If you just need a regear, then definately send it to ZUK.
01-10-2006, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by seaflea
You are correct. No offense taken. I thought the mechanic was saying you needed a new 3rd and it was going to cost $2100 for it. I was just offerinng up my spare so you didnt have to pay that much.
If you just need a regear, then definately send it to ZUK.
If you just need a regear, then definately send it to ZUK.
Thanks,
01-12-2006, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Amocat00
A mechanic is trying to tell me I should switch to something like 4:10's[
Originally Posted by Amocat00
Oh, ok, gotcha. No, the mechanic said it would be "easier" to just buy a new 3rd.
Thanks,
Thanks,
Yeah, easier for him, and more profitable too.
This guy is stupid and trying to rip you off.
Run away fast.
01-12-2006, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by fourwd1
With a 4 cyl and 5 spd, you already have 4.10s.
Yeah, easier for him, and more profitable too.
This guy is stupid and trying to rip you off.
Run away fast.
This guy is stupid and trying to rip you off.
Run away fast.
01-17-2006, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by FilthyRich
have you used the guys at either Island Off-road or Coastal???
~S
01-17-2006, 07:23 PM
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ammo
howd the install go?we put our new 3rd in on sat.it went well but the hardest part was getting the old 3rd out.it was actually frozen to the housing and to the studs.we had to take a jack under the pinion and crank it up to break it free.
also from the pix ive seen the antilock brake sensors are way out near the whellbearings ,so i said no it does not have antilock brakes.it actually does have a sensor up at the top which was difficult to remove but we did get it and put it in the new 3rd.still not sure if this is the antilock sensor or not or if its working or if it is missing a timing ring or something inside the 3rd.
howd the install go?we put our new 3rd in on sat.it went well but the hardest part was getting the old 3rd out.it was actually frozen to the housing and to the studs.we had to take a jack under the pinion and crank it up to break it free.
also from the pix ive seen the antilock brake sensors are way out near the whellbearings ,so i said no it does not have antilock brakes.it actually does have a sensor up at the top which was difficult to remove but we did get it and put it in the new 3rd.still not sure if this is the antilock sensor or not or if its working or if it is missing a timing ring or something inside the 3rd.
01-18-2006, 03:14 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by cherokeechief79
ammo
howd the install go?we put our new 3rd in on sat.it went well but the hardest part was getting the old 3rd out.it was actually frozen to the housing and to the studs.we had to take a jack under the pinion and crank it up to break it free.
also from the pix ive seen the antilock brake sensors are way out near the whellbearings ,so i said no it does not have antilock brakes.it actually does have a sensor up at the top which was difficult to remove but we did get it and put it in the new 3rd.still not sure if this is the antilock sensor or not or if its working or if it is missing a timing ring or something inside the 3rd.
howd the install go?we put our new 3rd in on sat.it went well but the hardest part was getting the old 3rd out.it was actually frozen to the housing and to the studs.we had to take a jack under the pinion and crank it up to break it free.
also from the pix ive seen the antilock brake sensors are way out near the whellbearings ,so i said no it does not have antilock brakes.it actually does have a sensor up at the top which was difficult to remove but we did get it and put it in the new 3rd.still not sure if this is the antilock sensor or not or if its working or if it is missing a timing ring or something inside the 3rd.
You're doesn't seem to have gone too badly, that's good. But, I don't know anything about that antilock break sensor or whatever. Mine has disc brakes in the rear.
~S
01-27-2006, 12:55 PM
#32
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Amocat00-
Sounds like you've got this all buttoned up, but here's another place to check out.
I was in your neck of the woods last summer - helped my lil sis move down to Havelock - anyways, while there I drove around the area & saw this shop that was about a mile from my sister's house - it's right beside Cherry Point (i think). They had a huge 84 runner with a buick v6 sittin out front which really got my attention...
BUT ANYWAYS, the place is Extreme Offroad 252-444-4440. Seemed like a shop devoted to 4bys cause they had nothing but lifted trucks everywhere.
Sounds like you've got this all buttoned up, but here's another place to check out.
I was in your neck of the woods last summer - helped my lil sis move down to Havelock - anyways, while there I drove around the area & saw this shop that was about a mile from my sister's house - it's right beside Cherry Point (i think). They had a huge 84 runner with a buick v6 sittin out front which really got my attention...
BUT ANYWAYS, the place is Extreme Offroad 252-444-4440. Seemed like a shop devoted to 4bys cause they had nothing but lifted trucks everywhere.
01-31-2006, 07:31 AM
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I've got a stupid question for you all: If I had my rear 3rd sent off for a re-gear, would I be able to re-install the 3rd once I get it back? Is it as easy as just sliding in the axle shafts?
Sorry, dumb question.
Sorry, dumb question.
01-31-2006, 05:47 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by cherokeechief79
can a yota rear run for any length of time with the pinion pointed up as high as his?wouldnt the pinion starve for oil?
Thanks,
~S
01-31-2006, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by fnrunner
Amocat00-
Sounds like you've got this all buttoned up, but here's another place to check out.
I was in your neck of the woods last summer - helped my lil sis move down to Havelock - anyways, while there I drove around the area & saw this shop that was about a mile from my sister's house - it's right beside Cherry Point (i think). They had a huge 84 runner with a buick v6 sittin out front which really got my attention...
BUT ANYWAYS, the place is Extreme Offroad 252-444-4440. Seemed like a shop devoted to 4bys cause they had nothing but lifted trucks everywhere.
Sounds like you've got this all buttoned up, but here's another place to check out.
I was in your neck of the woods last summer - helped my lil sis move down to Havelock - anyways, while there I drove around the area & saw this shop that was about a mile from my sister's house - it's right beside Cherry Point (i think). They had a huge 84 runner with a buick v6 sittin out front which really got my attention...
BUT ANYWAYS, the place is Extreme Offroad 252-444-4440. Seemed like a shop devoted to 4bys cause they had nothing but lifted trucks everywhere.
~S
01-31-2006, 09:29 PM
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Hey guys...the 5.29 pinions are much weaker than the 4.10s. That is why alot of trailer queens go back to 4.10s. They are stronger. I run an 85 runner on 38.5x14.5x15 bias ply. I have 4.88s. This gives me ok grunt if i run it on the hwy or streets and i have some strength as well.
Also brand of gears you buy plays a big role in the price of the third. Bay area, CA prices with a good set the whole third is around $900 - $1200 brand new. Used of course you can do much better.
Roger Brown can probably speak to this a bit more.
Just my .02cents...........
Also brand of gears you buy plays a big role in the price of the third. Bay area, CA prices with a good set the whole third is around $900 - $1200 brand new. Used of course you can do much better.
Roger Brown can probably speak to this a bit more.
Just my .02cents...........
02-01-2006, 12:16 AM
#37
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Originally Posted by AJ3
Hey guys...the 5.29 pinions are much weaker than the 4.10s. That is why alot of trailer queens go back to 4.10s. They are stronger.
Go read Zuk's info....I thinkit willchange your mind. It wouldn't hurt to read teh rest of the thread before posting either.
02-01-2006, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Amocat00
This has me curious. Can someone/anyone answer this question AND tell me how to correct if needed.
Thanks,
~S
Thanks,
~S
02-01-2006, 07:46 AM
#39
AJ3---I don't doubt that a lot of trailor queens go to 410 ratio but that is because of the bad info floating on the BBS boards about ring and pinion strength. Actually, if the truth be known, 529 and 571 might be stronger than 410 gears. Now if that doesn't raise an eyebrow, nothing will 
Gear strength is a function of many things but if a 410 and a 571 are both installed to pro levels...and both gears are made from the same Gleason process....then the 410 will:
A- produce less output power for a given input power
B- probably break before the 571 due to the tooth load bearing being farther radially from pinion bearing centerline which causes additional pinion deflection due to moments of force.
You're basically right if you say many more 529/571 gears break compared to 410 but wrong to leap to the conclusion that that was due to "weaker gears". The real reason is the poor gear install itself that causes the breakage.
It's actually a bit ironic that the so-called hard core dudes step down to a low performance 410 thinking they are stronger.
These are the sources that I trust for good solid info...some of it is a bit too tech even for me but this is where I can gather insight
http://www.gearinstalls.com/links.htm
These guys probably share my same thoughts....they might agree about high numeric ring/pinion strength....and not only as it applies to 9 inch. http://performanceunlimited.com/illu...ons/gears.html
Gear strength is a function of many things but if a 410 and a 571 are both installed to pro levels...and both gears are made from the same Gleason process....then the 410 will:
A- produce less output power for a given input power
B- probably break before the 571 due to the tooth load bearing being farther radially from pinion bearing centerline which causes additional pinion deflection due to moments of force.
You're basically right if you say many more 529/571 gears break compared to 410 but wrong to leap to the conclusion that that was due to "weaker gears". The real reason is the poor gear install itself that causes the breakage.
It's actually a bit ironic that the so-called hard core dudes step down to a low performance 410 thinking they are stronger.
These are the sources that I trust for good solid info...some of it is a bit too tech even for me but this is where I can gather insight
http://www.gearinstalls.com/links.htm
These guys probably share my same thoughts....they might agree about high numeric ring/pinion strength....and not only as it applies to 9 inch. http://performanceunlimited.com/illu...ons/gears.html
02-01-2006, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by marko3xl3
I think that's not a problem, because gear oil is very viscious nasty stuff. Even at trail speeds of 10mph, it has enough viscocity to travel around on the main gear to the pinion. At higher speeds, it'll just stick to everything and lube all parts. No problem.
~S
