Gearing running 38's
#1
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Gearing running 38's
I have an '85 4Runner, 22RE, manual trans. My rear gears pretty much shattered to pieces. I'm riding on 38 x 14.5's. It's a beach cruiser, not a rock crawler. I live on the Outer Banks, NC. It's virtually flat. It's NOT a Daily Driver. It had 5.29's front and rear. A mechanic is trying to tell me I should switch to something like 4:10's. I disagree. What do you all think...regarding the gearing, not the vehicle in general?
Thanks,
~S
Thanks,
~S
Last edited by Amocat00; 01-09-2006 at 03:48 PM.
#5
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The 5.29s should be fine.
The going rate changes depending on the time of year for youre area. But I would think that the MOST he should charge you is around $300 per axle to regear it.
Thats labor only.....
The going rate changes depending on the time of year for youre area. But I would think that the MOST he should charge you is around $300 per axle to regear it.
Thats labor only.....
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Originally Posted by seaflea
The 5.29s should be fine.
The going rate changes depending on the time of year for youre area. But I would think that the MOST he should charge you is around $300 per axle to regear it.
Thats labor only.....
The going rate changes depending on the time of year for youre area. But I would think that the MOST he should charge you is around $300 per axle to regear it.
Thats labor only.....
How 'bout for replacing the master cylinder?
I'm prolly gonna tell him not to touch the vehicle again until I'm sure of what I'm doing or want to do...
Last edited by Amocat00; 01-09-2006 at 04:26 PM.
#7
I had BOTH my diffs regeared and lockers installed in N.C. for $300, so it depends on who you ask and who you know. Bench install is less than them tearing down the whole thing.
I'd still find another mechanic other than the one who is feeding you that bull....
I'd still find another mechanic other than the one who is feeding you that bull....
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
I had BOTH my diffs regeared and lockers installed in N.C. for $300, so it depends on who you ask and who you know. Bench install is less than them tearing down the whole thing.
I'd still find another mechanic other than the one who is feeding you that bull....
I'd still find another mechanic other than the one who is feeding you that bull....
Thanks,
~S
PS
What kind of time/labor are we talking to replace the BRAKE master cylinder, which also needs done?
Last edited by Amocat00; 01-10-2006 at 02:56 AM.
#9
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why not change the m.c. yourself? go pick up a chilton or hanes manual and do that one on your own.
gear wise i believe all you need is the gears and get a install kit. shop around for a good price with you bringing the diffs in yourself. Figure you could drive quite a ways to find the best price and still come out ahead with gas included if you find the right guy to do it. also, check with them and see whats recommened for what you need, but i believe gears and install kits would be it.
gear wise i believe all you need is the gears and get a install kit. shop around for a good price with you bringing the diffs in yourself. Figure you could drive quite a ways to find the best price and still come out ahead with gas included if you find the right guy to do it. also, check with them and see whats recommened for what you need, but i believe gears and install kits would be it.
#10
Originally Posted by Amocat00
Ok, so my 3rd member (housing?) is apparently fine. The gears are facked. It had a gerry-rigged posi-traction, I think welded, locker in it. I don't need any type of locker out here. So, what all would I need to purchase to repair? I guess I'm asking what all the associated parts are inside the 3rd member? I'm just learning all this and don't want taken for a ride.
Thanks,
~S
PS
What kind of time/labor are we talking to replace the BRAKE master cylinder, which also needs done?
Thanks,
~S
PS
What kind of time/labor are we talking to replace the BRAKE master cylinder, which also needs done?
If your rear diff was welded then you need more than a new r and p and install kit. You may not want or need a locker but a limited slip would be worth the money since you need a new carrier (I think) anyway. You may not think you need a limited slip but if you get that rig out on the sand, sooner or later you will appreciate the extra traction.
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who's the member here that does alot of gear installs that has the R&P avatar, he had a website and and it was alot of great gear tech, especially that showing why 5.29s should be no weaker than 4.10s, its an urban myth since most 4.10s are factory installs while all 5.29 installs are done by hand(and some much much better than others).
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Originally Posted by NCSU-4runner
who's the member here that does alot of gear installs that has the R&P avatar, he had a website and and it was alot of great gear tech, especially that showing why 5.29s should be no weaker than 4.10s, its an urban myth since most 4.10s are factory installs while all 5.29 installs are done by hand(and some much much better than others).
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Originally Posted by ZUK
S---With that tire you should be doing 571. They won't break if it's a pro install. That's probably what happened to your 529s.....the install.
You might consider sending at least the rear diff to me. ZUK
You might consider sending at least the rear diff to me. ZUK
But, the labor will be $350.
I told him I'd find one myself.
So, Zuk, what should I do?
~Shawn
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Send it to Zuk. There's a link at the bottom of his page to contact him. There's another link right beside it with his standard fees. Very reasonable, plus he has the experience I was looking for...Toyota only.
Also, I talked to the salesman at Randy's, and found you can get a LLT warranty on the gears for an additional $30.
Zuk is the man. My third is on the way to him right now.
Also, I talked to the salesman at Randy's, and found you can get a LLT warranty on the gears for an additional $30.
Zuk is the man. My third is on the way to him right now.
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Originally Posted by rocket
He just told you. Pull the diffs yourself and mail 'em off...
Thanks for all the help guys.
~Shawn