What's up ladies and gents. Here is the newest road block I have stumbled upon. The clutch will not engage! Here is what I have done as far as the clutch issue. New LCE pro clutch, new bearings, new clutch master cylinder, and new clutch slave. Still no clutch action. I bled it, I did the nickel trick on the slave, I adjusted the MC a bajillion times, and still no action. If I start it in 1st it jumps. If I start it in neutral, it will not engage. I tried starting it in 1st and driving it around the block pumping, hoping and praying something will change and nada! I called LCE they said adjust the pedal and to try the nickel in the slave, but nothing works. I'm all out of ideas. Is there some kind of electrical crap or anything I'm overlooking? Anything helps at this point

 

Think that you mean that your clutch will not DIS-engage.

Have you verified visually that the slave rod moves the clutch fork when you depress the pedal???

 

Sorry yes disengaging. And yes it travels about 3/4-1inch from seated. I have been reading about pivot ball breaking or worn, but would that allow the fork to move at all?

 

Possible that you installed the friction disc backwards, and the clutch is mechanically jammed.

 

I followed the instructions. Unless some genius put the labels on wrong it even says this side flywheel, this side pressure plate. Could it be that I “hand tightened” a little too much? I know it says 15-18ft lbs. I just put a small extension and socket and turned with my fingers. Again I’m stumped

 

I have a couple of questions for you, maybe if we backup a little it will help.
when did this start?
did the new clutch make any difference at all or did this all start with the clutch job?
what is the "nickel trick"? Sticking a nickel between the slave pushrod and the clutch fork?
what vehicle/engine?

 

I have had this project going for a few months now. It didn’t run so I don’t know it is a recurring problem with the clutch/trans. I replaced the motor and added a little bit to boost power output. Intake/exhaust and clutch upgrade. I carefully installed/mounted everything knowing how much of a pain in the ass it’ll be to crack it open again so I took my time. I started it up and it didn’t go into gear when I tried. I inspected the pneumatics and eventually replaced the mater cylinder and clutch slave. The pedal felt stiffer and the fork moved a little more but still won’t go into gear when the truck running. I called LCE tech support and they said it sounds like the MC. I said it’s brand new. They suggested to place a nickel between the fork and slave, bleed it, adjust the MC rod. I did all that and still nothing. So that’s where I currently am

 

Ok, so they were thinking that the nickel would give you a little more throw on the clutch fork and get full travel to disengage the clutch.
I don't agree with this, but it could be a troubleshooting step.
Here are some things to be aware of.
If your master cylinder pushrod is not fully releasing because the pedal is hitting it's stop it won't allow the piston inside to pass the port to the reservoir and refill for the next pump. Make sure there is a little play (you can pull up on the pedal ever-so slightly) when it's released. If you go too far with the adjustment in either direction you will cause issues so make sure the master cylinder pushrod is fully extended when the pedal is released and that you get all of the throw you can when it is pressed.
If this is part of your problem it can also prevent proper bleeding, so try that again.
Another thing to check is the clutch pedal pivot and brackets, if there are any cracks in the firewall where the bracket mounts or cracks in the bracket itself it will keep you from getting a full throw on the master cylinder pushrod.
If you are 100% certain that you are getting a full throw and that there is no air in the lines (not pneumatic by the way, they are hydraulic) then you need to look at the clutch release fork and how much slack (movement) there is before the throwout bearing begins to move.
Adding the nickel between the slave cylinder and shift fork will make the fork move farther but it will keep tension on everything when the clutch is released and make your throwout bearing wear out prematurely.
If all of the above is verified then your issue must be with either the pivot ball for the fork, the fork itself, the attachment of the throwout bearing, installation of the clutch, warped disc, warped flywheel etc.
I hope somewhere in all this mess I have covered your issue, let us know.

 

Still hung up on the "finger tight" clutch assembly, no way I'm compressing those springs without a wrench.

Don't recall the manual having an inspection hole in the dust plate, but you can get eyes on a lot of it from the starter area once it's pulled off and that's my suggestion. Get the starter off and get eyes on what's going on in there, mirror, cellphone, USB camera, something. Is the clutch cover fully seated, does the throwout engage with the clutch, is the fly wheel warped, does the throwout move the clutch fingers. These are all things you can check pretty simply.

 

wondering if you have an aftermarket flywheel/stock or a flywheel that has been ground at a machine shop. ive had a flywheel cut at a shop for my 91 MR2 turbo, same ˟˟˟˟, couldnt get it into gear, they got the step measurement wrong on the flywheel

 

This is all great troubleshooting information. Thanks for not crucifying me for using wrong terminology and looking like a noob, it has been a very long while since I last turned a wrench like this. I will be hitting it again when I get back home and will have an update soon. Thanks again fellas

 

I recently ratchet strapped the fork approx 1/2'' from max on cheapo clutch master and slave. I heard an audible click and I was able to shift into all gears. Weird... Truck runs fine since then