Buying a 22RE in an 84 chasis with 7" lift
#1
Buying a 22RE in an 84 chasis with 7" lift
Looking at buying an 5-sp 84 4x4 pickup for next to nothing. The PO replaced the 22R with a 22RE and has a 7" body lift. The tranny is bad as well as the U-joints on the driveshaft. Lot's of rust along bed but frame and cab look reasonable. A couple of questions for those experienced with significant lifts:
1. with 7" of lift, should I suspect damage to the rear differential, driveshaft and tranny?
2. what model tranny should I be looking for as a replacement (W46, 55 or 56)?
1. with 7" of lift, should I suspect damage to the rear differential, driveshaft and tranny?
2. what model tranny should I be looking for as a replacement (W46, 55 or 56)?
#2
If this thing has got a 7" body lift (which is frigging nuts) your drivetrain will be in a stock location. 2-3" body lifts are considered max (and legal AFAIK) A body lift is a spacer that goes between the body and the frame.
Are you sure it is not a combination of body and suspension?
If it is a 7" suspension lift, yes you can expect some driveshaft issues if they were not done correctly.
post up some pics...
Are you sure it is not a combination of body and suspension?
If it is a 7" suspension lift, yes you can expect some driveshaft issues if they were not done correctly.
post up some pics...
#7
OK. Anyone out there able to make a recommendation on which tranny to replace existing one with? The obvious is to replace it with the same model currently in there, but didn't know if there is a preferred model for the 22RE or the 84 chasis.
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#9
W56. THats about the best you'll get before you spend too much. THe R150/R151 is best, but you need a turbo22R bellhousing (good luck with that!). THe W56 was equipped on the 22RE and the G-series trannies (G52/G54) came on carburetor models. Realistically, a freshly built G-series would do just fine but the w56 is a bit more sought after as it is slightly heavy dutier.
Pretty much any 22R/22RE 4WD transmission between 1984 and 1995 will bolt right up. Don't use trannies between 79-83! THese are the L-series and the crossmemeber on these trucks bolts up like 12inches farther forward than the rest of the pickups!
Pretty much any 22R/22RE 4WD transmission between 1984 and 1995 will bolt right up. Don't use trannies between 79-83! THese are the L-series and the crossmemeber on these trucks bolts up like 12inches farther forward than the rest of the pickups!
Last edited by XtraSlow_XtraCab; 02-03-2009 at 12:14 AM.
#10
XtraSlow, that is exactly the kind of knowledge I am looking for. Thanks!
Having never been into a tranny before, from what I read on YT, the manual tranny is a little more straight forward and requires fewer special service tools to dissasemble. Would you say this is correct?
Having never been into a tranny before, from what I read on YT, the manual tranny is a little more straight forward and requires fewer special service tools to dissasemble. Would you say this is correct?
#11
I can't truthfully suggest what kind of tools would be needed to fully disassemble an automatic piece-by-piece... however the automatic will be much more conplicated and the 5 speeds are much more reliable. Also an automatic transmission is a "torque hogger" and you won't get the full benefits of the performance your motor puts out (which is already so little). If you think its a dog with a 5 speed... don't even waste you're time with an automatic.
ANyway... the transmission case can be split with a socket set, a breaker bar (preferrably longer than 18") and some fondling. THe only "special tool" you will require is a 12 ton press.
THe synchros, gears and pulleys are a pressed on fit, with a snap ring for added reassurance. You'll find that the rear axle is like this as well. It IS possible to remove and replace the synchronizer rings and gears by hammer and beer... but I wouldn't trust the quality of the transmission if reassembled that way.
So, assuming you don't have a hydraulic press: Remove the the transfer case. I would split the tranny case (bellhousing first). It will take a little hammering and a little finessing because the shafts ride inside of bearings pressed into the front section of the case (where the bellhousing bolted to). All three shafts with gearing will stay pressed into an aluminum base. From their, I'd just take it to a machine shop with a rebuild kit and finish it there.
Before you consider this though, make sure you have a shop manual. Even the crappy CHiltons books have a decent exploded view. The part that gets confusing are the rods, forks and sliders that actually control gear change. It will take several revisions of the shop manual and "does this look right?" questions but it IS comprehensible.
ANyway... the transmission case can be split with a socket set, a breaker bar (preferrably longer than 18") and some fondling. THe only "special tool" you will require is a 12 ton press.
THe synchros, gears and pulleys are a pressed on fit, with a snap ring for added reassurance. You'll find that the rear axle is like this as well. It IS possible to remove and replace the synchronizer rings and gears by hammer and beer... but I wouldn't trust the quality of the transmission if reassembled that way.
So, assuming you don't have a hydraulic press: Remove the the transfer case. I would split the tranny case (bellhousing first). It will take a little hammering and a little finessing because the shafts ride inside of bearings pressed into the front section of the case (where the bellhousing bolted to). All three shafts with gearing will stay pressed into an aluminum base. From their, I'd just take it to a machine shop with a rebuild kit and finish it there.
Before you consider this though, make sure you have a shop manual. Even the crappy CHiltons books have a decent exploded view. The part that gets confusing are the rods, forks and sliders that actually control gear change. It will take several revisions of the shop manual and "does this look right?" questions but it IS comprehensible.
Last edited by XtraSlow_XtraCab; 02-03-2009 at 11:46 PM.
#12
XtraSlow, now I know who to come to for tranny issues! From your description, it sounds like I am better off finding a donor tranny. The one pulled, I can then dissasemble over time and get some experience.
#13
Well I'm not a guru... but I have a few Yota manuals laying around. IF you run into a problem, I'd be happy to offer an opinion after looking over the technical drawings.
I think replacing it temporarily and learning to rebuild one at a steady pace is the best thing for anyone. Trannies, motors, whatever! And aside from us here on Yotatech, you can always poke your head into a machine shop or a tranny shop. If you send a good vibe out to the tranny mechanic and let him know that you value his opinion and yada yada yada, they'll spill it out step by step. A lot of people like being asked their opinion or "how would THEY do it" questions... it offers them a chance to show what they're made of I guess...
I think replacing it temporarily and learning to rebuild one at a steady pace is the best thing for anyone. Trannies, motors, whatever! And aside from us here on Yotatech, you can always poke your head into a machine shop or a tranny shop. If you send a good vibe out to the tranny mechanic and let him know that you value his opinion and yada yada yada, they'll spill it out step by step. A lot of people like being asked their opinion or "how would THEY do it" questions... it offers them a chance to show what they're made of I guess...
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