I haven't seen to many threads with anyone that has used ARP head studs, so I thought I'd share my thoughts. Well from what I gather 22R / 22RE are known for blowing head gaskets as they accumulate mileage. To combat this I decided to install some nice head studs. So far so good!

 

This is after she was all put together. The motor rips pretty good. Now it's on to bigger and better things like a GM TBI controlled by Megasquirt II V3.0 PCB. Once I get home from Iraq I'll write a whole post from start to finish.

 

The biggest problem with redoing a head is the fact that people do not retap the holes. The bolt holes will get carboned up and give a false torque reading. As you know this is a big deal with the studs because they only go in hand tight. I put studs in for the same reason and have yet to have another blown head gasket. Well worth the money!!!!!

 

Put the ARP studs in my 22RE about 10 years ago, no leaks:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#CylinderHead

 

Probably has 80-90K on it so far. I had problems with the last head gasket and head that were installed at a Toyota dealer shop that failed in under a month. Not sure what they did wrong, but I found several of the head bolts that were not torqued to spec including one that I could turn with my fingers. I don't know if those bolts were loose because the head had warped or if it was the loose bolts that caused the head to warp (it was about 0.007" out).

I just liked the real positive feel of the studs while torquing down the nuts. While if you do a perfect prep job, the head bolts work fine, you never really know 100% if they really got tight (from clamping pressure) or if they bound up in the hole in the block. Big difference between the high quality threads on the hardened alloy steel studs and nuts vs. the old threads in the cast iron block.

 

Agreed, have never been back there in 12 years for service, only for parts if needed. Had no choice on that occasion, as it was a warranty repair on an engine they installed.

 

I read this on a website so I thought I'd share:

Head studs are usually the preferred choice of racing professionals and for good reason. Using studs will make it much easier to assemble an engine (especially a racing powerplant which must be serviced frequently and quickly!) with the cylinder head and gasket assured of proper alignment. Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading.

Here’s why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being “twisted” while it’s being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a “relaxed” mode – never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut. If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run.

 

good recomendation of re-tapping the holes

 

I am using the ARP head studs on my 22rte. So far 11,000 miles on rebuild running 8:1 compression and 9 psi boost, work great. Also don't forget to put some grease,oil,or the ARP supplied grease, and definately run a tap on the threads.

 

what did you guys pay for the set? i was going to get them when i do my rv head in a month or two but only LCE sells em for 180 or something high.

 

I dont remember what i paid, it was between 160-180. LCE wont be the cheapest place to buy them.

 

thats what i figured, i think local its around 100..

 

When i rebuilt my engine I used ARP head studs and no problem so far!

https://www.yotatech.com/gallery/sho...4&ppuser=16393

I think you are the only person I have seen with about the same engine color as mine! ha ha

 

out of curiosity what size is the tap size needed?

 

I used them in the last motor I rebuilt....was a nice little extra piece of mind. Will probably put them in the new truck if the headgasket ever goes out and I have to get in there again.

 

what kind of carb is that in pic