Hello all I'm thatlucasguy I've been a long time reader and long time wrencher where I can. I recently bought a 85 t4r factory solid axle with a 4in lift supposedly 🧐 anyway its missing some pieces under the truck in ex. (Swaybar links, torque rod bolt) that's all that I have been able to find so far but while driving it home I was doing everything I could not to dip thru a ditch or tag a car anything over 35, 40 mph and it's loosey goosey🤣 any help would be greatly appreciated on how to tighten it up or what to look for. Also while driving there is about 1-1 1/2in of play in the steering wheel but stationary there's maybe a 1/4 of an in. Thanks again.

 

Did you inspect for play on steering and suspension? You are in the best position to do that.

 

RAD4Runner;52474758]Did you inspect for play on steering and suspension? You are in the best position to do that.

Yes I did and there is hardly any at all it was tipped over but there is minor damage to the body and took it to a frame shop and they said it was straight. I did look at the drag link and there was some play there I took the cotter pin out and tighten it up and it helped a little but that end cap is almost all the way in and can no longer tighten it.

 

The drag link is a good start. On my 84 rebuilding the drag link with a kit was a night and day difference. Check for and broken springs in the front or bound up shackles. On my 86, I’ve change the rag joint, pitman arm and rebuilt the steering box, changed Torsion bars from stiff back to stock, all yielding considerable improvements in drivability.

 

How old are your shocks? I had a slight wandering with our 85 and it has some play in the steering also but according to the FSM is just inside the limit. I found a new OEM drag link on E bay for 70 bucks two years ago. I did that and it was still happening from time to time. The shocks turned out to be the issue but I would ether rebuild or replace that drag link. The tires we had originally may have contributed to the problem also. It was tricky in the rain before replacing them. It pulled hard to the right in deep puddles on the side of the road. Now its like a new 1985 4runner (not new car) on the road! I do drive it like it is not like it's some kind if sports car and try to hit 80 and such. I'm more interested in some light wheeling. Sports car, lol at something like 100 HP😂🤣😅

I looked into this also some say you need to put a different drag link on for a lifted truck. I don't even know how lifted ours is but it is and the OEM seems to work.

 

Forgot to add we don't have a sway bar ether. I got one but had to make longer links. they kept breaking. I tried using threaded rod not automotive hardware. Anyhow it didn't seem to change handling characteristics so I never looked for longer links.

 

If the truck is lifted, I would recommend not wasting too much time/money on stock steering and just go to high steer. If the truck is lifted and you are wheeling it with stock steering, the J arm will eventually break. Even if you get everything worked out, with 4" lift and stock steering, the truck will likely have some brake steer/pull (whatever you want to call it). A lifted truck will benefit from high steer in several ways. I would also replace the spring bushings while I was at it, if they look at all suspect. It would also be good to know that the caster and toe are not out of wack. These trucks will stay on track with one finger on the wheel, if your setup is good and things are tight. good luck

 

2X on above statement.
I went way longer than I should have on stock steering on a lifted truck. I had a drop draglink and it still sucked. I don't want to think about how bad it would have been with a stock draglink.
High steer all the way (for anything SFA and 3" or more suspension lift).
Also, new poly bushings for the springs/shackles could make a real difference if the old ones are even questionable.

 

Hello all sorry I have been super busy with work and life and finally getting back around to reading all of your responses. I had some free time the other night and got a chance to check some of the stuff out that yall have been talking about. #1 draglink it has a ton of twist motion but no looseness forward and back or side to side, I did notice while parked and turning the wheel it has ton of back and forth play I did some reading on a different forum and someone said try the penny trick till parts come in. I gave it a shot and ended up helping a little but it still loves to wander. I'm trying to make it a daily/weekend toy, very light trails nothing crazy. #2 steering box- I attempted to tighten the box and loosen the box with no improvement either way I have about an inch to an inch and a half of play both ways in the steering wheel so looking at doing a rebuild of the box or upgrading to the ifs steering box and doing hysteer. #3 I have not checked the front shocks but I did notice there are no shocks on the rear just leaf springs so it's a very bouncy ride lol. #4 was told it needed a water pump due to the bearing screaming come to find out after replacing the pump it was the harmonic balancer pulley that separated and is screaming other than that I have nothing else to hit on. Hysteer will have to wait till I get the funds for it so use how is rn I guess lol. Also it is a 22re would yall feel safe running 35 12.5 on it or is that to much tire for the tiny motor? Thank you all for your responses and I look forward to updating yall on my progress.

 

I'll have to throw my 2 cents in and make it 3x for swapping over to the high steer crossover.
the older trucks with solid axles are very susceptible to bump steer, any time the drag link isn't parallel to the ground it's trying to turn the truck.
If you are talking about smooth straight roads it's not too bad, but any kind of bump or cornering can get sketchy.
I had an 81 with home built lift and the drag link was at a terrible angle just sitting at ride height. with no sway bar it made steering on our crummy roads more of an interpretive art and when I broke a shock I almost rolled the truck the next time I hit some rough road at about 45.
After installing high steer crossover it was light years better.

 

As mentioned above, it has less to do with the draglink being tight, and more to do with suspension lift makes the geometry of the steering suck.
If you can find a 2-3" drop draglink (they have 2 bends to keep the ends parallel to the ground) it could help a decent amount, but it would be a band aid till you could do high steer.

Lots of Yota's on 35's, you just have to run 5.29 axle gears.

 

I'd like to correct you on the drop draglink, bends to keep the ends parallel to the ground will only help keep them from binding at full articulation, it will do nothing to aid in bump steer.
a dropped pitman arm will help, if you keep the joints (ends) at the same height from the ground it will be better than a dropped drag link. but when the driver side tire rises or falls over a bump it turns the wheels.
Kinda hard to describe without drawings, but it's all geometry. The longer the connection between the pitman and the steering arm on the knuckle the better the bump steer will be and the crossover steering makes that link as long as you are going to get it.
the high steer part of the equation gets the steering arm closer to the same level as the pitman arm and a dropped pitman arm may well get that crossover link parallel to the ground which would be the best setup for the least bump steer.

 

I don't disagree at all. Drop drag link or longer pitman would make the steering geometry "better", but bump steer is unavoidable with factory steering setup when you lift these trucks.
As I stated, it would be a "band aid" to get by until he had the time and money to fix it right.

 

35's are good with 5.29's. I drive my 22RE/35's half way across the state to go wheeling. You need to be geared for the size tire you run, it makes a big difference.