84, 22R, 165,000 miles - Need some help with this thing. I just bought it and I'm not exactly the most mechanically inclined. I know enough to get by, but I don't posess any real technical knowledge, so I'm looking to you guys to learn!

I have a few questions about the pickup:

#1. Where should the temperature gauge sit when warmed up during 110 degree weather? The first day I bought it and took it home about 9 miles the temp gauge went about 3/4 of the way up and seemed to just stop there. Is that normal or does that signify that there might, in the future be an overheating issue?

#2. I am missing some vaccuum lines and I need to find out where to get the right diameter hoses and how to hook them up. I took some pictures of what I'm missing in hopes that it will help you see what I'm talkin about:







I know that this may cause the engine to miss and it definitely sounds like it. Where can I get these lines? How important are they for the operation of the vehicle?

#3. I noticed a couple very minor coolant leeks. One is just at the top of the radiator, but it doesn't look like theres a hole or anything I'm baffled as to how it's escaping. There's no bubbling or anything:



Second coolant leek is a part that is hooked to the radiator hose just in front of the carburator. I have no idea what this part is but here's a picture with the leak circled in red. It's a TINY bit of coolant nothing that would set off a huge alarm or anything, but I like to be informed and spot problems before they get worse:



Any information on this stuff would be greatly appreciated. I paid 1400 for this truck, I'm in college and just looking for a reliable fun truck to go camping and commuting in.

Here she is getting the battery charged before I put a new alternator in today:




Thanks so much guys and awesome forum!!

 

Hey buddy!

1) These temperature gauges are not accurate whatsoever, HOWEVER the truck is running too hot if the gauge is telling true. It should sit 1/3 of the way up from the COLD indication. Maybe at half if you're in high RPMs on a hot day.

2) Those vacuum leaks are causing misfire, which causes heat. Probably causes SOME excess heat but I would replace the thermostat and keep checking the radiator level anyway.

3) The open vacuum ports circled in each picture are paired with the other ones shown nearby (i.e. distributor lines to steel lines at front of valve cover).

4) There are a lot of vacuum lines on this particular motor (too many IMHO). Pick up a shop manual from the parts place. Some call them useless... but the vacuum and emissions diagrams have helped me out multiple times.

If these problems persist, or you have other questions, this forum can be very helpful. Some of us are kind of picky, and asking an intelligent question will receive you an intelligent answer. (Ya feel me, cuz? haha.) I'm always willing to help as well so feel free to PM.

May the force be with you.

-Dan

 

Thanks! I appreciate the response. I'll drop by autozone tonight and grab me a shop manual. Would Autozone have the tubing for the vacuum lines? I'll keep my eye on radiator level and replace that thermostat too. That's good to know about the temp gauge, I might have to see if I can install an after market one.

Much appreciated!

 

try here for a service manual.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

i agree with xtraslow there are WAAY too many vacuum lines on these engines. PITA

nice truck by the way

 

i dont know about the coolant from your radiator, looks really minor, i'd just keep an eye on it. as for the other coolant leak, you probly have a bad seal in there and probly a bad thermostat which is less than 10 bucks to replace. under that manifold where its coming out is the thermostat its really easy to replace just drain your coolant (there is a drain hose with a shutoff valve on the bottom of the radiator) remove the manifold (2 bolts) and you can pull the stat. right out, put your new one in but make sure it has a new seal on it sometimes you have to buy the seal seperate. this should help your temp problem cause the stat regulates coolant flow. when you go to the parts store to get it ask for the coolest running one they have.
nice truck i really like it 84 is a great year
good luck!

 

Thanks a lot guys, I got a new thermostat and seal today as well as a muffler the original is all rusted out and has a hole in it for some reason. The parts for this truck are really really cheap compared to my last two vehicles. I got the new alternator in, now I'm ready to tackle the thermostat.

I'm on a quest to actually know something about vehicles this time other than general knowledge and you guys are a great help it's much appreciated. I'm excited to get the thermo and muffler on there this evening when it cools off!

Thanks for the comments on my truck, I can't wait to get it painted.

 

Thanks a ton for that link too Taconasty that's just what I need.

 

no!

only run the stock temp stat for your application. running one that is too 'cool' will keep your engine from running the way its designed to, and will rob you of gas mileage! engines run at their best effeciency at hotter temperatures, usually even above the stock thermostat rating. a lot of people with overheating issues will put in a cooler 'stat to compensate. this is also a wrong thing to do. you are just masking a problem with your cooling system. there is a reason OEM is done a certain way.

as for your radiator leaking, it looks like a small amount of blow-off from your radiator cap and the puddle settled on the lip of the tank. might as well get a new radiator cap while you're at the parts store.

Al

 

Well I did the thermostat install. No leaking of course, but the temperature indicator still goes up about 3/4 of the way about a 1/4 of an inch below the danger zone. After replacing the thermostat I refilled what coolant I lost, made sure it was cycling let it run for about 15 mins and recapped it. Drove about 10 miles non-stop with the A/C running in 105 degree weather and theres no difference in where the gauge was sitting when warmed up and in motion before the replacement.

I'm definitely no mechanic, but it seems like it's either going to overheat one day when I have to drive REALLY far, or that's just the temperature my engine is running at due to the age of the engine and the missing vacuum lines. I have no idea. The truck has pressure, I'm not losing any coolant, and it's not overheating persay so I guess time will tell.

 

fix your vac lines, do a full tune up (including timing) and see how it does. it could be making extra heat, but it could be normal for the truck too. i wouldn't trust my guage all that much. most manufacturers cheaped out on guages so normal may be a little higher for you then the next guy. just spend some time watching it and see what is normal. also its a good idea to check your underhood temps after running it. if it feels like opening an oven door when you pop the hood it is probably running hot. i can usually smell the heat too... all the dirt and grime burning off that normally doesn't get hot enough.

oh, and long drives really don't put that much more stress on the cooling system then around town after its fully heated up. if anything, when you're cruising down the freeway the cooling system is not working very hard because you are getting all that air flow to the radiator. stop and go driving (think LA rushour or 4-wheeling) is what really taxes the system with lugging the engine, hot underhood temps from no airflow and a fan having to pick up all the slack.

Al

 

Thanks a lot Al, You're definitely right it runs a wee bit cooler on the freeway than stop-and-go on the main roads. It does smell a bit hot but I literally have to put my nose up to the crack in the hood to smell the roasting dirt and stuff. Never smells like coolant or steam or anything though.

Next I will do a full tune up. I replaced the vacuum lines to the best of my ability lastnight, and it seemed to help the stability of the idle a bit, but nothing major, and didn't really effect the heat level during day time driving.

It does feel pretty damn hot when popping open the hood after running it, a bit moreso than a well operating vehicle, but not by much. I'm happy if she lasts long enough for me to complete all the work I want to do. Eventually she'll have a brand new engine and a fresh paint job...can't wait for that day hehe.

About how much does it cost to replace the front main seal? The gasket that seals the oil pan? That's leeking like a faucet, I can see the beads building up on it and I'd like to fix ASAP. My father said he thought it was somewhat pricey.

Thanks again guys!!

 

My 22r had overheating issues like you have described. You mentioned that it ran cooler on the highway than in town? That could be the fan clutch, right? Mechanics in the house, help me out here.

That was my problem. Of course, I replaced the thermostat, hoses, the radiator and flushed it and put in Toyota red, before I figured it out.

 

Fan clutch huh? How hard are those to install and where do they go? Looks like I can get one at Autozone for 47 bucks, if it's easy enough I'll just replace it now myself, couldn't hurt.

 

They are not too hard, but I wish I had replaced it when I put in the new radiator. It would have been so much easier.
If you can find the factory service manual online( I think the link is on here) its gives you step by step instructions.

 

ive known some guys to apply jb weld around the fan clutch their fore its now always spinning. cheap fix thats lasted him a few years now. when all of your vaccum lines are connected right you will be surprized how great your 22r will run

 

your vaccum lines going to the distr. need to be connected the line close to the head and the line on the distr. close to the head go together and the lines closer to the radiator go together, as far as the line u have missing from the air cleaner goes to a vaccum switch. the line underneath close by the carb goes to a seperate vaccum switch also. i have changed my carb out about 3 times trying to jet it just right and i think i have it really close. my 22r runs very well. i have changed everything out from the head up.

 

Right on, I need a schematic for all the vacuum lines, I'll bet I have some of them wrong. I didn't see anything like that in the service manual. Would Chilton or Haynes have the schematics I need? Also there's a line coming from what I would assume is the fuel pressure regulator laying over the top of my block. It concerns me, I'll take pictures later but to try and explain:

What I'm calling the fuel pressure regulator is located on the far left hand side of the pickup in the engine compartment (of course) it is about the size of two hockey pucks stacked on eachother and has 3 or 4 hoses coming off of it. All are connected except the one laying in the open. I think that's probably pretty important, but for the life of me I cannot figure out where it goes. Why would anyone disconnect all of this stuff? It's a headache tracing it all back to its origin!!

After looking at where the fan clutch goes honestly it looks easier than the alternator. Just remove the skirt from around the fan and unbolt the sucker right? I'll consult that manual and see how exactly it comes off. I might as well just replace it since I'm restoring the truck anyways.

 

Well just drove it about 25 miles today, and it got really hot again so my brother suggested we roll the windows down and throw the heater on. The truck wasn't blowing any hot air out at all, so there must be some issue with the heater. Could that be tied into the overheating issue? The A/C blows just fine though?

After turning the heater on although it wasn't blowin hot it did bring the temp gauge down a substantial amount. It's weird it gets SO close to that line just before the red zone but never touches beyond that line. Its not steaming and it doesnt smell hot until I put my nose up to the hood. I have NO idea what could be causing it unless it's the fan clutch. Everything else seems to be working fine??

 

dont buy a haynes of chilton that factory link you got is the BEST ONE!