Picked up an 84 22R truck for next to nothing. This truck sat for a year or so. Been getting it ready for inspection. Got it running after replacing the fuel pump and battery. Ran reasonable well and idled at 900 or so. Started it up this afternoon to move it and it ran like crud almost immediately. It barely idles, spits and sputters until it gets to about 2000 RPMs and then smooths out somewhat. Blowing smoke like it is running very rich. I have done the following:

1. checked pcv vallve, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Found #3 wire was broken and corroded in the cap so I replaced the set. No change. All plugs are getting spark.

2. Checked timing...set at 5 degrees.

3. Checked all vacuum lines and replaced about four that were cracked. Made no difference.

4. Ensured there are no exhaust leaks.

I have searched the site and am at a loss with so much information. I know nothing about carbs and have seen quiet a few threads with similar symptoms that ended up rebuilding the carb and cleared up the problem. I have not yet checked the EGR, thinking it is more a fuel related issue.

Suggestions from any carb experts? What should I consider next?

 

After a bit more searching, I found a thread with similar problems:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...e-only-121674/

I pulled the vacuum line to the AAP and it was full of fuel, so I plugged both the AAP line and the vac line and now it won't fire up at all. I removed the diaphram it does leak so I know I have to replace it. Seems the only way I can get one through the local stores is to buy the entire carb rebuild kit.

When I pulled the AAP diaphram out, fuel spill and it was quite dirty and full of what looked like rust particles. Fuel line rusting somwhere past the fuel filter? Given the amount of trash in the fuel, should I go ahead an rebuild the carb?

 

Pull the carb off and clean it out, and rebuild it.

 

Pulled it and rebuilt it. Found two diaphrams were cracked, the tension spring in the acceleration pump was broken in half and filled with rust like debris.

I have the carb all buttoned up with the exception of the choke breaker which requires rivets. Can anyone tell me how the tang is supposed to line up with respect to either of the coil/springs in the choke casing? Does it catch the thin spring or the heavier coil? The FSM mentions nothing about this alignment.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n..._Edge/tang.jpg

 

The "heavier spring" is a bi-metal and thus will expand with heat in the direction that "elongates" the spiral so to speak. Regular steel would heat up and expand, but nmot necessarily direction wise. It would just expand "out ward". But because this choke heater is composed of multiple metals, it expands differently causing the stopper point (that hits the choke flap lever) to expand and "move" counter-clockwise (viewpoint is mechanic facing motor rom the front grille). As far as the flimsy, thin spring... couldn't tell ya. I think the thing spring is the reason for my choke flap not closing in the first place.

 

Went ahead an seated the tang through the small metal spring and rested it against the bimetal stip, closed her up and riveted it together. Double checked the linkages and bolted it down on the manifold. Sprayed some starting fluid in and fired her up. Ran like a champ even on a cold evening! She is ready for the snow and ice tomorrow. Thanks everyone for the help.

 

Uggh! Thought I had this thing licked. After rebuilding the carb, it started instantly and ran beautifully until tonight when I drove it up to get it inspected. I let it idle in the driveway for about 5 minutes after a cold start to melt the ice on the windshield. Drove it down the road a mile and pulled into the local NAPA. When parked it, I noticed it was idling rough so I goosed it and it started to sputter. Right back where I was before rebuilding the carb. Seems like it does not like to run when warm. Suggestions on what to check now?

 

I would say it sounds like you aren't getting a steady stream of fuel. since you've seen particles in it I would think the fuel filter is all plugged up or maybe a restriction in the fuel lines? That is just what comes to mind, dont know if its even in the realm of possibilities. haha

 

The PO bypassed the filter! I pulled the line off the fuel pump while turning it over and filled a mason jar. Assuming flow is good. Thanks.

 

did you check your distributor vacuum advance, my truck would run like crap until it warmed up.
I bought a second distributor at a junk yard last year and when I replaced my head gasket I had the dist off of the motor I sucked air into the line and it did not hold a vacuum so I tried out the junk yard one and it held a vacuum Problem solved for me.
I replaced the carb 2 times with other ones and rebuilt one before I found out it was the vacuum advance.

also make sure that your choke is in the right spot when you put it back together I made that booboo when I rebuilt mine that had been messed with before I got the truck and when I bought my 3rd carb it had not been tampered with and was still factory and it worked the way it was supposed to.

I am finally at the point where I can go out in the morning pump the gas 2 times then turn it over it turns over 4 or 5 times and starts up I let it warm up until the high idle drops down to 900 and I am off, if I try to leave before it has idled down it is sluggish for the first mile.

I also installed a inline fuel filter you can clean out I thought my filter was a problem at one time

also make sure that you have a solid seal inbetween your carb and intake manifold

 

Thanks CyMon. Went over the carb, vacuum lines and linkage again and didn't find anything wrong. Of course, a fresh set of eyes may be what is needed. Always helps to have two sets of eyes, especially when dealing with the same issue over and over. The good news is that I ran her out on the road last night for a good 20 minutes and she is idling and running great. Might have been bad gas from the local station. Just before driving around, I noticed she was low on petro and put a few gallons of fresh petrol in. Never overthink the obvious!

 

Im about to rebuild my Carb on my 22r.
How hard was it for you and how long did it take?
Any advice that would save me some trouble???? Thanks in advance

 

Not difficult at all. Just need to remove all hoses and the four bolts at the base if I recall correctly. The only troubles I had were getting the brass nipples inside the carb to break free without stripping. The whole project took about six hours mostly because I had to rivet the choke back together after grinding off the original rivets. Replace all gaskets/diaphrams included in the kit. Got mine from NAPA and found some extra parts. Good luck.

 

Well i needed the gasket that goes in between the Carb and the Intake Manifold> I went to Auto zone Advanced auto, Napa, Orielys, No one had it. Except in a rebuild kit, so i bought that and figured i would rebuild it at the same time.
But the carb is running fine so i saw no need to rebuild it. If it calls for rebuilding in the future ill go for it. I was just replacing my head gasket and figured while i was at it i would....But i dont have six hours lol