I had overheating troubles where the temp on the mechanical gauge hit 220. The mech and stock gauge both climbed so I know it’s not the gauge. I had found the coil in the clutch fan was broke so I replaced that and had an aisin water pump in the garage so I figured why not change that too. While I was doing that I put in a new 180 degree thermostat and a new cap after flushing the rad as well.
The overheating only showed itself when slowing down to first or second gear in traffic and going slow. If I’m idling the temp stays at 175 ish and highway speeds (60-70) it stays at 180. Now the temp seems to fluctuate 180-200 where it used to stay at 180 for about a year. I have both a code 4 and 7 for coolant temp sensor and tps but the tps is adjusted and when I jump t-e1 it drops idle like it should. And I replaced the sensor with an autozone one. I adjusted the timing to 5 base timing and did plugs and wires and it’s still fluctuating in traffic. Any ideas would be great

 

Did you do a good cooling system flush when you changed the water pump? Rust and other "stuff" can build up over time in the engine block, and basically prevent coolant from reaching certain areas of the coolant passages. So no coolant in some areas is reducing cooling efficiency.
You could also have some air trapped in the cooling system. Same results.

I noticed the same issue on my '78 20R after changing out the water pump, thermostat AND putting in a brand new radiator. By the dash gauge it ran a bit hotter than before in slower traffic & idling.
Drained the coolant & reverse flushed the block with a garden hose into the lower radiator hose until the water coming our ran clear. Got a lot of rusty water coming out for several minutes.
Also reverse flushed the radiator to get anything out of there; some rusty water there as well.
Buttoned everything back up, put in fresh coolant & distilled water to mix spec. Ran with radiator cap off until thermostat opened. This helps get some of the air out.
Gave the lower radiator hose some squeezes which burped out some air. Ran for 5 minutes at full operating temp, no more bubbles seen in radiator. Topped off coolant & put cap back on.
Temps in traffic & idle were back to where they used to be, consistently, regardless of weather temp, even in Florida summer (90+ F air temps).

Only additional thing I wish I had done while I was at it was reverse flush the heater core. Stuff can build up in there as well.

 

After my 3rd fan clutch the issue is is not more. The first fan clutch broke the bimetal coil spring. Replaced it with a brand new one and the fan clutch just seemed to spin too much. Took it off and opened it and the inside was entirely destroyed and had no oil. 3rd fan clutch did the trick.

 

I'm having the same issue in my 94 pickup. Getting ready to replace fan clutch and water pump. Just curious if you had brand or model number for fan clutch. The ones online don't seem to look like the one currently on my truck.

Thanks

 

Rock Auto sells the OEM style AISIN fan clutches. There are two different ones for the 22RE; for either 2WD or 4WD. Both listings have the original Toyota part number for reference; just click on the "info" button on the part listing.
They also have a fan clutch for 3VZE models which has a totally different part number from the 22RE versions. Original OEM style by AISIN also available.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1994,pickup

I do not work for Rock Auto.

 

Definitely go with OEM whenever possible. Look how long the factory original lasted after all.

I make OEM a policy on my trucks. It sure seems to be of great benefit so far, for me.

Good price on those Rock Auto prices, BTW.
Pat☺