22R rebuild; still smoking
#61
Thanks nothingbetter. I appreciate ur input inmensely. I agree I need to break it in as best as I can. I have never done this so ur input an everyone elses is priceless to me. I'll be fabricating the exhaust today and maybe post some pics. It'll be shorter and route out before the rear tire pointing a little downwards.
#62
Hey Zuwuko,
My engine guy gave me really good instructions for break in, and he actually even recommended using Zinc for the initial 20 Minute break in(it also came with the good CAM lube all over the lobes of the CAM). He also had me use non-detergent oil for the first 20 minutes, then drain it, then 500 miles, then drain and refill again, then change filter and drive 2500 Miles and do it again(I'm not to 2500 yet, but had to change it anyway because of my bad cam/after the swap)
Along with those basics, he gave me RPM variations. "1500 for 8 seconds, 2500 for 8 seconds, 1500 for 8 seconds, 2000 for 8 seconds", etc., etc., hahahaha. Then, when swapping in a new CAM, I had to do that again, because THE CAM is one of the most crucial reasons you're varying the RPM's during initial break in, to allow proper polishing of the lobes so that the duration, etc., stays right on and doesn't damage the new rockers, etc.
Wishing you the best, man! I've been through much of this and I know how nervous I was at first to get it JUST RIGHT! lol.
Best wishes, man,
Mark
My engine guy gave me really good instructions for break in, and he actually even recommended using Zinc for the initial 20 Minute break in(it also came with the good CAM lube all over the lobes of the CAM). He also had me use non-detergent oil for the first 20 minutes, then drain it, then 500 miles, then drain and refill again, then change filter and drive 2500 Miles and do it again(I'm not to 2500 yet, but had to change it anyway because of my bad cam/after the swap)
Along with those basics, he gave me RPM variations. "1500 for 8 seconds, 2500 for 8 seconds, 1500 for 8 seconds, 2000 for 8 seconds", etc., etc., hahahaha. Then, when swapping in a new CAM, I had to do that again, because THE CAM is one of the most crucial reasons you're varying the RPM's during initial break in, to allow proper polishing of the lobes so that the duration, etc., stays right on and doesn't damage the new rockers, etc.
Wishing you the best, man! I've been through much of this and I know how nervous I was at first to get it JUST RIGHT! lol.
Best wishes, man,
Mark
#63
thanks! I appreciate the support and encouragement. Why don't you start up a thread with details of a compression test, leakdowm test, and specific symptoms? I'd be happy to give u my diagnostic opinion as well as others here I'm sure.
#64
Well, I dont know if Im mechanically savvy enough to do a rebuild. I can do most mechanical repairs, but I have never been on the inside of a motor. I have been looking at used Tacoma's as a replacement, but they are so expensive! So for now Im just in a delimma on what to do.
#65
bickle, doing an engine rebuild isn't an act from the heavens. It's all about taking your time and paying attention to all the little details. If you do that you shouldn't have any problems down the road. Think of it this way. Your engine already has issues. If you rebuild it, and it still has issues, your only out some cash but you learn't a lot in the process. But if you rebuild it, do it well, and it runs flawlessly for years to come, you arn't out any $, you still learn't a lot and you still have your truck. As far as I'm concerned, the only way to really learn is to get your hands dirty and do it. You can read about it as much as you want but you will never learn as much as when you hold that piston in your hand and say "so THATS how it works!"
Also, you could just swap your engine for another out of a wrecked truck.
Also, you could just swap your engine for another out of a wrecked truck.
#66
Thanks guy! I dont want to hijack this thread!
im going to do some thinking on what I should do. I have come to the conclusion today that I will NOT be buying a Tacoma anytime soon. I just cant justify that expense right now. So that leaves me with a few options; keep driving the truck as is and keep a gallon of oil with me, rebuild the engine, or buy a used one and install it.
WHats the latest zuwuko?
im going to do some thinking on what I should do. I have come to the conclusion today that I will NOT be buying a Tacoma anytime soon. I just cant justify that expense right now. So that leaves me with a few options; keep driving the truck as is and keep a gallon of oil with me, rebuild the engine, or buy a used one and install it.
WHats the latest zuwuko?
#68
Here is the exhaust. Truck passed emissions with 48 HC LIMIT 200. I failed the Gas Cap though! Thought that was funny. Motor feels good. There is a very tiny small oil leak in the FRONT of the engine. looks like its either right above the water pump to the front cover. OR maybe coming from the "11th" head bolt (small one at the front of the head). Any ideas?
#70
Looks good, Zu! Yeah, though, what X said, lol.. maybe angle it upward out the back of the muffler and then keep it tucked higher up on the tire?
Far as the oil... hmmmmm. Not sure what you mean by the "Hidden Bolt causing a leak". Do you mean maybe it's not tight or maybe you forgot it? lol. I could see if it's missing that the oil could come out the "timing cover/Head" surface.....couldn't it, guys?
Maybe check the easier things, first, like seeing if maybe the valve cover gasket slipped and kinked, causing oil to leak down to the head/block seam and run around to that area in the front? OR, maybe the timing cover has a flaw somewhere or oil is leaking into a bolt channel and out one of the upper bolts? Seems to me, if you're seeing oil that high(from the head/timing cover portion of the HG)...... would lean more likely toward HG/Timing cover top area compromised or Valve cover...no?
Far as the oil... hmmmmm. Not sure what you mean by the "Hidden Bolt causing a leak". Do you mean maybe it's not tight or maybe you forgot it? lol. I could see if it's missing that the oil could come out the "timing cover/Head" surface.....couldn't it, guys?
Maybe check the easier things, first, like seeing if maybe the valve cover gasket slipped and kinked, causing oil to leak down to the head/block seam and run around to that area in the front? OR, maybe the timing cover has a flaw somewhere or oil is leaking into a bolt channel and out one of the upper bolts? Seems to me, if you're seeing oil that high(from the head/timing cover portion of the HG)...... would lean more likely toward HG/Timing cover top area compromised or Valve cover...no?
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 11-30-2010 at 01:57 PM.
#72
Its higher than it looks in that picture, I mean its higher than the rear differential (not THAT high but still other things have less clearance). Still a bit low for my taste as well though. I just needed to get it bolted up fairly quick so I could go pass emissions and register the truck. I'm definitely going to fiddle around under there and see how I can tuck it a bit more.
I DID install the hidden head bolt. It is a strange tiny tin tiny leak. I really hope its not coming from between the head gasket area, I really dont want to pull that head of for the 5th time.
I DID install the hidden head bolt. It is a strange tiny tin tiny leak. I really hope its not coming from between the head gasket area, I really dont want to pull that head of for the 5th time.
Last edited by zuwuko; 12-01-2010 at 08:36 AM.
#73
Hey Zu, I NEVER SAID "it was likely" either way, lol... DON'T think that. Just trying to help you track it down. I cannot let oil leaks go, ...they drive me nuts and concern me, as I've had them SUDDENLY become much worse, ya know? lol. You'll find it, and btw, I don't think you HAVE TO pull the head to swap out a timing cover gasket, etc., IFFFFFF that ended up being what it was. OH, yes, I forgot to mention.... ONE TIME, just sharing, lol.... I had a leak that was really giving me trouble in finding... It ended up being the half moon on the valve cover. It was on right, but I'd forgotten the sealant at the corners between the cover and the head(edges of the flat part of the half moon). Just throwing it out there, that's a pretty easy fix, if it's possibly what's leaking.
Watching and hoping for the best.
Watching and hoping for the best.
#74
Chefyota, no worries on misunderstandings. I just use caps to try to clarify as much as possible, not to yell n such.
I'm going to heat n bend the end pipes so it'll have more clearance for that tire.
The measurements of the rear seat is 20"x20", many msgd me for dimensions.
I'm going to heat n bend the end pipes so it'll have more clearance for that tire.
The measurements of the rear seat is 20"x20", many msgd me for dimensions.
#75
Just had the exact same problem with mine and my problem was I didn't chase the head bolt holes with a tap causing improper torque of head bolts after I corrected that and got the
e Carb tuned right she runs like a sewing machine.
e Carb tuned right she runs like a sewing machine.
#76
Well everything is running fairly smooth with the rebuilt motor. Do remember I put a new carb on it as well for the following report: When warm, it idles inconsistently. I dont have a tachometer yet, but it feels as if it fluctuates between about 600 rpms to 1,500 rpms. And of course, when it hits the low point, it stalls 50% of the time. I'm not sure where I need to focus on.
Somewhere I read perhaps it could be a faulty ECU since it only occurs on WARM idle. I'd really appreciate any input, especially from others with previous similar experiences. Thank you.
Somewhere I read perhaps it could be a faulty ECU since it only occurs on WARM idle. I'd really appreciate any input, especially from others with previous similar experiences. Thank you.
Last edited by zuwuko; 02-05-2011 at 08:15 AM.
#77
itll smoke for a bit from oily hands but not that long. when i put mine together. when i was settin my distributor and puttin water in. i would crank it then cut it back off. it smoked like the first 3 cranks which was like 10 mins? since you didnt rplace the rings it could be a broke oil ring. possibly?
#78
Yotakeith: Thanks for your input, however, I had a local machine shop build the block. I reassembled everything in my garage. No smoke, its running fine. It was the rings that werent sealing, the cylinder walls were scored.
#80
I never got around to posting more pics of this process. Here are some Pictures taking the block out in my garage with some friends instead of a cherry picker.
I ended up selling this truck. I now have a 1994 Nissan Patrol TD42 (4.2 Diesel inline 6 cylinder) with 680,000km running straight veggie oil like a champ.
But I hope to be selling it soon to buy this 96 4Runner 2.8 Diesel tomorrow if all goes well. Any particular things I should look to inspect?
I ended up selling this truck. I now have a 1994 Nissan Patrol TD42 (4.2 Diesel inline 6 cylinder) with 680,000km running straight veggie oil like a champ.
But I hope to be selling it soon to buy this 96 4Runner 2.8 Diesel tomorrow if all goes well. Any particular things I should look to inspect?
Last edited by zuwuko; 09-02-2012 at 06:11 PM.
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