impossible to do with the head already off, a little too late to the party camo.

ask the machine shop when they did your "valve job" if they cut both the valves and the seats and not just cut the valves in which I have seen some idiot shops do just that and "try" to call it good.

And if they did cut both, then tell them to bluecheck the valves in front of you to show that they are seating properly.

 

Thank you xxxtreme22r. Awesome, Now I can narrow down the cause of smoke tomorrow at the machine shop if the problem is valve seals. There can only be 3 ways oil can get into the combustion chamber, right? Valve seals, piston rings, or head gasket blown or not sealing.

 

PCV valve stuck open will do it as well if there is enough crank case pressure. Cracked head, cracked block and in some motors bad intake manifold gasket. I don't believe the 22r though has any oil passages in the intake manifold only water.

BTW, my last comment on the valve seats is just that, a valve not sealing correctly by itself will not cause oil leakage into the cyl.

PS it's problems like this is why I just went with a new assembled head from engnbldr. By the time I had the valve job done, had the head shaved and the head magnafluxed I only had to spend a little extra on it.

 

You never said if the head gasket was blown before starting this project. If it was there is a possibility the catalytic converter is fouled out with oil or coolant, if this is the case you can check the head and valves all you want. It will always smoke until the exhaust is replaced. Might be worth checking.

 

Did you clean the head and block surfaces before you put the head back on ?, looking at the pictures above of the block there is no way the head gasket is going to seal.

 

Really?! Bad valve seating won't cause constant oil burning? How can I check the pcv valve? I don't quite understand how a bad pcv valve could cause oil to burn.

Yes I bought it with a blown head gasket. I will try running the motor without the cat back exhaust once rings are changed and head is inspected again by the shop. I dodnt think the block is warped because compression is consistent across the board. Or should I have the block machined just to be safe?

 

valves seats and valve seals are two different things.

 

The pcv is the one coming from the top middle to rear section of the valve cover and into the carburator, correct? If so I think that could be the problem! I did see oil mist shoot upand out through the carb at one point when starting the engine the first time! Oil must be getting in through there and into the intake manifold runners and into the cylinder! Make sense? I just need to know how to test te pcv valve

 

well, the pcv is in the rear top part of the valve cover, but the other end of that hose should be directly into the intake manifold. The front vent on the top of the valve cover would go into the air cleaner assembly.

Take your PCV out and shake it, make sure it rattles.

 

I took the pcv valve out and it does rattle. If the burning oil can't be valves not searing properly and it can't be the headgasket ita new and installed it twice ensuring clean surfaces then the oil option for oil burning is piston rings. Right? Where else could I be burning oil?

 

A friend came over and told me my cylinders are in too bad shape and are the culprit of my oil smoking problem. Is it possible to reuse the same pistons and rods and just replace the rings and rod bearings?

 

Quick question.
Look hard at your cylinder walls.
Are they: Somewhat shiny, not very, but kind of glossy?
Are they: Matted and have a bit of crosshatch on them
Are they: Full of massive gouges?

If 1: Then you have a ton of blowby, due to cylinder wall glazing.
If 2: Your cylinder walls are fine..
If 3: Time to bore/hone.

And no. If you need to bore the block out, you should get pistons to match the bore. not bore to match the pistons.

 

They're very shiny. Yes I would take the block to a machine shop and see what they could bore to and tell me what pistons I could use. Any recommendations on budget pistons and rods?

 

you probably won't need new rods. try engnbldr for the pistons. don't order the pistons till the machine shop tells you how much your gonna have to bore out to whether it be 10, 20, 30 over etc etc. then order your pistons and give your pistons to the machine shop so they can match the bore to the new pistons.

 

Thank you xxxtreme22r, you've been a wonderful help. Thats exactly what i'll do. Monday the block will be at the machine shop and we'll go from there and post an update then.

Should I replace the soft plugs, main bearings, crank front and rear seal while i'm in that deep? Also more or less what cost should I expect the machine shop to charge for boring to ensure I dont get ripped off?

 

I had a 87 toyota pickup 22r and i had this same problem.
I tore it down and did the head gasket job TWICE! Just as you did.
Had the head re worked and everything. New valves, valve springs, etc etc etc.
But my pistons were tight in the cylinders, and i figured it would be find to build from the pistons up and leave the rings be.
Which was a bad idea, because both times i did the head gasket job, it smoked just like you are saying.
It not only smoked, but it burned a quart of oil a day.
I hate to say it, cause ive been in your position,
But i think the best thing for you to do is bite the bullet, tear the motor out, and replace everything from the bottom up if you want it done right.
It will not only save you money in the long run, but it will be a good learnin experience.
good luck, Ill continue to follow this thread, im curious how everything turns out.

 

Thanks for your input and sharing your similar experience Bojangles. Having you guys share your experiences and knowledge is a huge confidence builder as I have never rebuilt an engine before. When you say "replace everything from the bottom up"; could you be more specific with the correct part names. When I bought this truck in close to non running condition I was prepared to do pistons and rings if necessary but was hoping would be fine with a simple head gasket based on compression #s.

I have so far spent $802 on brand new: carburetor, camshaft,head bolts, head gasket kit, machine ship mill head, timing chain kit. New pistons, bearings, rings comes to $150. The only pending expense is how much boring the cylinders will cost. Not a bad budget build.

I think replacing the clutch may also be in the bottom end build since it'll be very accessible. What clutch kit do you recommend? Motor should be slightly more powerful than stock considering engbldr camshaft and over sized pistons but not much. I dont plan to ever run greater than 33" tires either.

 

http://www.marlincrawler.com/
These guys have a great selection of parts, they also have pretty wide selection in clutches, whether or not your climbing rocks or just an every day driver they should have something for you...But if your running stock gearing, and 33" tires id say get something a little more above average.
By "Replace everything from the bottom up" i ment pistons, rings, crankshaft (if it looks worn) But i may have come into your thread a little late because from what you say it seems like your on the right track.
And when i did my head gasket job twice i was in the hole a grand and it was still smoking.
I replaced the whole timing kit, timing chain cover, oil pump, water pump, all new bolts, head bolts, new valves, valve seals, re-surfaced head, all kinds of stuff.
Needless to say, if i ever rebuild another engine, i will build it from the oil pan up, and i will build it right. But it was a good learning experience. a lot of money though.

 

get the "master" rebuild kit from engnbldr and be done with it. will come with everything you need.

 

He said it all. Right there.