22r problem!!
#22
Fuel filter is below the intake. Two banjo fittings and two bolts. Pain in the butt to get to but easy for any novice wrencher. Access it through the panel in the passenger side wheel well. Just saying the seafoam might clean out the injectors and intake. Might be why you truck is running poorly. It's cheap and i've seen it work womnders. It couldn't hurt right.
#23
Aviod sea foam anywhere else but its ok in gastank. Is it carbed? 22r"e" fuel filter is on the block above the starter. The head gasket job on that truck prob pays about 6 hours. thats just the head gasket. If you are going to do you better do a good job and take your time. You said the engine was built 2 years ago and bored over? How much bore do you know? Any recipts? Re-check compression only this time i need to know how fast the compression builds up in the cylinders. Also after that squirt about a tablespoon of oil in the clyinder then recheck compression. When checking compression stop when the cylinder has fully rotated about 5 times. Does the compression build up very slowly to the readings you get. Or does it build up in about one or 2 stokes? The compression should only go up about 5% If it builds up alot more then there is worn rings or cylinders.
#24
yes im very smart just had the carb put on 3 months ago and yes they stuck this huge fuel filter on sorry forgot,never used seafoam. yes 22r carb bored .30 over not much. no recipts bought it a year ago. ill go check comp again and let ya know. thanks
#25
if you're DEFINITELY going to pull the head, ....Might just want to remove the intake and TB and have the head shop bead blast or tank them. Usually, if they're doing any work for ya, they'll throw that in there, doesn't cost em really. Also, really think about checking the timing cover, ...it might have been used, eh? Even at low miles, if they used plastic guides and you've had compression issue like this? Who knows, could be time to check that out, while you're that far in. ESPECIALLY if you have the head off, right guys?
#27
i rechecked the comp the #s stayed about the same with the oil squirt in there. what was it supposed to do? ive got the #s if u wanna know? and it seems maybe the second stroke is when it built up the pressure then stops at maybe say 4th-5th stroke. kiroshu any ideas?
#28
DON'T QUOTE ME, Myyota....prod ppl for more info.....BUT, if you're doing the leak down properly, and getting that low of compression....I WOULD REALLY lean toward badly leaking valves. As I said, TRIPLE check me on that, but it's the only other thing that I can think of that would cause such low compression...."Valves, Rings or Pistons"...and since(if you're correct) the leak down is showing, well, NOT MUCH LEAK DOWN, ...then I would lean toward Valves.
Wishing you the best, MyYota, and PRAYING that's not it. But, what the heck, right? 'WHAT AN ADVENTURE IT WILL BEEEEEEEE', lol. Sorry, not making light of your problems....just having a few of my own, that's all I meant, hahaha.
Good on'ya, 85!
Chef
Wishing you the best, MyYota, and PRAYING that's not it. But, what the heck, right? 'WHAT AN ADVENTURE IT WILL BEEEEEEEE', lol. Sorry, not making light of your problems....just having a few of my own, that's all I meant, hahaha.
Good on'ya, 85!
Chef
#29
If you put oil in there and did it like i told you then it seems to hve valve issue unless you have broke rings or when the engine was rebuilt and bored .30 over they put the wrong and or to small of pistons in. If its not building anything more with the oil then the problem most likely is in the valves. It was like this for every cylinder? You but about a table spoon of oil in there? So on the first "puff" its not building any at all but then on the second stroke it "starts" to build pressure then on the 4th-5th "puff" its at your numbers you recorded? Hmm... How badly is it using oil? I bet the Bored "over" deal is messed up. It prob got bored and honed too much over like about .33 and has .30 pistons in it and that is major.... course the oil should ahve brought up the compression... theres a major compression leak somewhere. Did you check valve clearance too? Either way if its burning oil that bad <-- (or is it not?) then the engine is going to have to be "opened" up to see whats wrong. Remove the head and check the cylinders bore. It could very well be wrong and need "re-boring" for ever "more" over. Could be valves and a "choppy" head job from the PO....
Last edited by Kiroshu; 06-06-2010 at 02:50 PM.
#31
i never did the leak down test,cant. i put wd40, yes 2-3rd is when it builds up the pressure. i dont think she takes alot oil maybe 1/2 quart every oil change. i think its water that is burning. if it was bored wrong wouldnt i have this problem a year ago??? and no never checked valve clearnce, i bought the gaskets today so if its the valves like most of u say will i be able to check them when i open it all up?????
#33
Did you use motor oil for the Wet Compression test? WD40 won't cut it. Hmm if its only burning that much its prob not ring related. Still sounds like worn/sticky valves/head gasket. If you plan to do the Head gasket you better check everything about that head. Mainly check valve clearnaces first. If you could do a leak down test it would tell you just about exactly where your issue is.
#40
ok guys got it all broken down, kinda afraid because we dont really see a fail point on the old gasket,should we???? ill start to clean tom.. how the heck do i get the valve spring off to put those new caps on???? does everything look normal??
Last edited by myyota85; 06-14-2010 at 05:38 PM.