22-re head gasket
#21
i think i am ordering a new head with cam... and i spoke the the guy i bought it from and he said he didnt think that would happen... and swears on it... but im not putting anyone to blame sh** happens ya know
#22
by the way... i looked under the cap and their was some milkshake goo under it... i wiped all that out and chainged the oil agian today... then drove the truck around the block a few times.... checked the oil and the top of the cap... and their seems to be no milk look.... it was smelling a bit like gas when i first started it because it wont stay running unless you give it gas when its cold....
#23
ok so i changed the oil in the truck.... drove it around for a while and it had white smoke comming out of the tail pipe.... when the rpms were high it didnt do it at all but when they dropped it would smoke... then after a bit of driving (5-7mins) it stoped and only smoked when you would take off from a dead stop... but the smoke is WHITE and its not burning oil and after driving around for a half hour their was no milkshake in the oil or under the cap... im so confused...
#25
ok so i changed the oil in the truck.... drove it around for a while and it had white smoke comming out of the tail pipe.... when the rpms were high it didnt do it at all but when they dropped it would smoke... then after a bit of driving (5-7mins) it stoped and only smoked when you would take off from a dead stop... but the smoke is WHITE and its not burning oil and after driving around for a half hour their was no milkshake in the oil or under the cap... im so confused...
#26
i pulled the plugs on it and they were a little black and 1 had a little oil on it... i also noticed that the guy who owned it befor me (did the tune up) gaped the plugs between 35-40... wich i corrected to 31... seems to run alot less choppy... still no coolent in the oil agian... and didnt see much smoke at all today
#27
So are you no longer planning on doing the head gasket??? It may hang in there for a while but the only thing you can do to make it better is to pull it appart. Coolent in your oil is also bad for the engine because its hard on the bearings. If it's not your DD just park it until you can fix it.
#28
no im still going to tear it apart... i have to drive it tomarrow to work but then this weekend she is getting torn down... dropping the head off at the local machine shop tuesday and im going to replace the timing chain and head gasket... if something happens tomarrow *knock on wood* and i have to rebuild the whole thing then im going to build it to make a little more power... and i will ask for advice on things to do for it... and what are the best to use parts
#30
If you are going to keep the factory cam check it out with a micrometer to make sure it is still within spec. If it is within spec then there is no reason to get a new one unless your trying to improve power. Also you may want to check your cam bearring spec with plasigage once you get the head back.
#33
depends on how much power you're looking to get. I just bought a complete motor from a friend with a TRD cam in it for 150$ + a Weber Carb. He seemed to think it was a lot of power...... for a yota. As for your head, you may never see oil and water in the pan or cap. When my head went, the coolant would burn off straight into the exhaust. I knew once the water pump went and it over heated that I was probably going to be into the head, but after replacing the pump there was never a sign of problem except I kept loosing coolant. never overheated or ran rough. Long story short, pulled the head, saw a nice shiny piston and a torn gasket. If you just do the head rebuild, find a friend with a laser cut level and check the top of the block. You just lay it flat on the block and run a feeler gauge under it to check for discrepancies. I had a very small warp-age at the top between my no.3 and 4 pistons. Not very likely on the block, but if you have it apart, might as well check..
#34
Headgasket? Super easy. If you have a cherry picker or a buddy, you can pull the head off without even removing the intake or exhaust. And do the timing chain, because its worth your time. Please trust me on this one. GO for a double timing chain with steel guides... 100 kit plus 30 bucks for the headgasket.
also do you recomend a stock gasket? arp studs?
thanks
Joust
#35
now i have the truck all torn down... just gotta take the head bolts out.... found some good news... the timing chain was replaced on it with the metal gears and all.... from what the guy i got the truck from said, it was changed 10k ago... should i just use that or should i get a new one
#36
here are some pics from last night...
taken just befor being put in the garage...
almost 4 hrs into it... labeling everything takes time...
thats it for now... will get more up of it all torn down tomarrow....
their is a ton of crap on this thing to take off... i have been labeling everything and taking other pics that im printing out in order to help me remember where everything goes... so im going slow... better safe then sorry... as you can tell this is my first yota!
taken just befor being put in the garage...
almost 4 hrs into it... labeling everything takes time...
thats it for now... will get more up of it all torn down tomarrow....
their is a ton of crap on this thing to take off... i have been labeling everything and taking other pics that im printing out in order to help me remember where everything goes... so im going slow... better safe then sorry... as you can tell this is my first yota!
#37
If your careful not to let the chain slip off the timing gears, you can replace the head without removing it. I used a bungie cord at the stage your at. Hook one end to the top gear, and the other to the bottom of your hood latch. when you are ready to remove the head, have a friend hold it in place and just be careful. otherwise you will have an extra ass load of work to do.