84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

22-re head gasket

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Old 10-30-2007 | 03:30 AM
  #21  
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i think i am ordering a new head with cam... and i spoke the the guy i bought it from and he said he didnt think that would happen... and swears on it... but im not putting anyone to blame sh** happens ya know
Old 10-30-2007 | 03:37 AM
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by the way... i looked under the cap and their was some milkshake goo under it... i wiped all that out and chainged the oil agian today... then drove the truck around the block a few times.... checked the oil and the top of the cap... and their seems to be no milk look.... it was smelling a bit like gas when i first started it because it wont stay running unless you give it gas when its cold....
Old 10-30-2007 | 06:00 PM
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ok so i changed the oil in the truck.... drove it around for a while and it had white smoke comming out of the tail pipe.... when the rpms were high it didnt do it at all but when they dropped it would smoke... then after a bit of driving (5-7mins) it stoped and only smoked when you would take off from a dead stop... but the smoke is WHITE and its not burning oil and after driving around for a half hour their was no milkshake in the oil or under the cap... im so confused...
Old 10-30-2007 | 06:23 PM
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Compression Test, then leakdown test. Post Results. I'm still betting on headgasket.
Old 10-31-2007 | 12:24 PM
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From: Santa Cruz
Originally Posted by Dexter350k
ok so i changed the oil in the truck.... drove it around for a while and it had white smoke comming out of the tail pipe.... when the rpms were high it didnt do it at all but when they dropped it would smoke... then after a bit of driving (5-7mins) it stoped and only smoked when you would take off from a dead stop... but the smoke is WHITE and its not burning oil and after driving around for a half hour their was no milkshake in the oil or under the cap... im so confused...
The white smoke is from coolant leaking into the cylinder and burning. If you pull your spark plugs you will probably find that one (or more) is very clean looking. That will be the cylinder where the coolant is leaking into. Also if your coolant leak is bad enough, (sounds like it isn't yet) coolant can leak into a cylinder (from sitting overnight) and hydro lock the motor and possibly cause valve or rod damage. I would avoid driving the vehicle until your pull it apart and fix it. Again I'm not saying that its going to happen to you but it can happen and if it was mine I wouldn't even turn the motor over unless the spark plugs were out.
Old 10-31-2007 | 03:49 PM
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i pulled the plugs on it and they were a little black and 1 had a little oil on it... i also noticed that the guy who owned it befor me (did the tune up) gaped the plugs between 35-40... wich i corrected to 31... seems to run alot less choppy... still no coolent in the oil agian... and didnt see much smoke at all today
Old 10-31-2007 | 06:14 PM
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So are you no longer planning on doing the head gasket??? It may hang in there for a while but the only thing you can do to make it better is to pull it appart. Coolent in your oil is also bad for the engine because its hard on the bearings. If it's not your DD just park it until you can fix it.
Old 10-31-2007 | 06:30 PM
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no im still going to tear it apart... i have to drive it tomarrow to work but then this weekend she is getting torn down... dropping the head off at the local machine shop tuesday and im going to replace the timing chain and head gasket... if something happens tomarrow *knock on wood* and i have to rebuild the whole thing then im going to build it to make a little more power... and i will ask for advice on things to do for it... and what are the best to use parts
Old 11-02-2007 | 06:04 PM
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ok im starting the tear down tomarrow... here is my question now... should i look into a new cam since im getting the head redone? or should i just stay with the factory one?
Old 11-02-2007 | 06:27 PM
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If you are going to keep the factory cam check it out with a micrometer to make sure it is still within spec. If it is within spec then there is no reason to get a new one unless your trying to improve power. Also you may want to check your cam bearring spec with plasigage once you get the head back.
Old 11-02-2007 | 07:25 PM
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Exactly.

(if you are looking for more power, get a TRD stage I, or a crane, its a good setup.)
Old 11-02-2007 | 09:02 PM
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yea im looking to get some more power out of it... but will it be a noticeable differance thats worth the money?? im going to buy a header and exhaust soon to for it
Old 11-03-2007 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Dexter350k
yea im looking to get some more power out of it... but will it be a noticeable differance thats worth the money?? im going to buy a header and exhaust soon to for it

depends on how much power you're looking to get. I just bought a complete motor from a friend with a TRD cam in it for 150$ + a Weber Carb. He seemed to think it was a lot of power...... for a yota. As for your head, you may never see oil and water in the pan or cap. When my head went, the coolant would burn off straight into the exhaust. I knew once the water pump went and it over heated that I was probably going to be into the head, but after replacing the pump there was never a sign of problem except I kept loosing coolant. never overheated or ran rough. Long story short, pulled the head, saw a nice shiny piston and a torn gasket. If you just do the head rebuild, find a friend with a laser cut level and check the top of the block. You just lay it flat on the block and run a feeler gauge under it to check for discrepancies. I had a very small warp-age at the top between my no.3 and 4 pistons. Not very likely on the block, but if you have it apart, might as well check..
Old 11-05-2007 | 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by XtraSlow_XtraCab
Headgasket? Super easy. If you have a cherry picker or a buddy, you can pull the head off without even removing the intake or exhaust. And do the timing chain, because its worth your time. Please trust me on this one. GO for a double timing chain with steel guides... 100 kit plus 30 bucks for the headgasket.
Can this BGH be changed without removing the cam and messing with the valve setup? I just found that my 22re has a BHG and I'll need to be doing this myself. The engine has 375000km on it and runs smooth and there is zero valve noise.
also do you recomend a stock gasket? arp studs?
thanks
Joust
Old 11-06-2007 | 03:24 AM
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now i have the truck all torn down... just gotta take the head bolts out.... found some good news... the timing chain was replaced on it with the metal gears and all.... from what the guy i got the truck from said, it was changed 10k ago... should i just use that or should i get a new one
Old 11-06-2007 | 03:05 PM
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here are some pics from last night...

taken just befor being put in the garage...


almost 4 hrs into it... labeling everything takes time...




thats it for now... will get more up of it all torn down tomarrow....

their is a ton of crap on this thing to take off... i have been labeling everything and taking other pics that im printing out in order to help me remember where everything goes... so im going slow... better safe then sorry... as you can tell this is my first yota!
Old 11-07-2007 | 08:32 AM
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If your careful not to let the chain slip off the timing gears, you can replace the head without removing it. I used a bungie cord at the stage your at. Hook one end to the top gear, and the other to the bottom of your hood latch. when you are ready to remove the head, have a friend hold it in place and just be careful. otherwise you will have an extra ass load of work to do.
Old 11-07-2007 | 04:57 PM
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ok here is tonights progress.... head is off and ready for the shop...





look how clean this valve is... thats where the water was leaking in...



Old 11-09-2007 | 01:12 PM
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ran into a prob. and the head is no good.... kinda bumbed about it.. $420 with a new cam and all.... what can ya do
Old 11-09-2007 | 01:51 PM
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thinking about just saying screw it....... ganna build the lower half and that way i will have a fresh motor


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