I have an engine, 22R out of my 85 2x4 Toyota pick up and after about two weeks after I fill the tank with gas, I notice drop off in performance. A tank normally lasts me 3 - 4 weeks and when I get into that 4th week it is like trying to drive my truck with a perpetually cold engine. If I put fresh gas in the tank then start the truck, it runs just as good as it ever does before I leave the parking lot... This happens EVERY TIME!

I normally put "87 Octane" in my truck...

Doesn't seem to matter summer or winter, but summer is more pronounced

Any ideas out there as to why two week old gas would cause such a problem?

grey

 

For "bad" gas to cause problems like that, it would have to sit for muuuuuch longer than 2 weeks. Your problem lies elsewhere.

 

I am wondering if the problem is the octane of fresh gas is just marginally what the engine needs, and any degrading make gas substandard causing poor performance???

grey

 

You still have gas in the bowl of the carb and fuel lines it is not possible to have fresh fuel to the engine that fast.

Unless your talking a very large parking lot

Then does anyone else have trouble in your area?? . It maybe for one reason or another after that time the water mixed with the gas separates out.

At times I can go a few weeks without adding fuel with no ill effects

 

Generally, I fill the tank then start the truck pull away from the pump and idle while I record all the information in my log, then I leave, sit at the light to get out... So may be it isn't instantaneous, but it is pretty quick...

grey

 

Its the alky in the gas. You must be close to a refinery or other source of 200 proof. The engine cannot compensate like a 22re can and retard timing as the alky degrades. Try some green gas preservative in the tank when you fill up. I even have issues with my 2012 Dodge and that fermented manure.

On my '88 its turning my fuel system into a corroded mess, the fuel rail has white powder falling from it when I did the injectors last. no fix for it.

 

Alky doped fuels are the pits.

I don't think that there is any alternative in AZ.

Some states permit the sale of 100% petroleum fuels for marine use.

Problems are even worse in places where there is higher humidity and the alky blend fuel is able to pick up even more water than here in the dry southwest.

Ethanol in motor fuel is a scam, nothing but a corporate welfare boondoggle.

 

Interesting... So what is the difference in red and green fuel stabilizers? Everything I have is red... of course...

So what is the "Shelf Life" of automotive fuels? And does it make much difference if it is pure petroleum or not?

Thanks!

grey

 

Okay, after doing some reading n the "new fuels' used in "older" vehicles, I wonder if I can really use OEM spark pugs in my truck since these new fuels seem to need a hotter spark to ignite the fuel right.

And relating to an old thread ( https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...44/index2.html ) I have I wonder if some the problem giving me my poor gas mileage is from alky fuels in an old leaded fuel engine and the seals and gaskets ruined by age and alky fuels...

grey

 

The new 2016 fuel standard will be 10.2% alky. No mfr of 2012 vehicles will warranty their engines after this year. Only fix is to buy flex fuel vehicles.

Oh this stuff does horrors to older vehicles. I just went through a chemical concoction to protect a chain saw, its the same brew for older cars. Hot rods are really affected.

 

I can see this administration doing something to kill old vehicles... "For the environment!" The "Cash for Clunker" scam caused a lot of problems, raised the price of running used cars significantly! At the time I had 4 vehicles 98 F-150, 94 Camry, 94 Corolla and 85 Toyota pick up... Only vehicle that qualified for the program was the 98 F-150...

So what did you do to protect your chain saw? I prospect for a hobby and we use leaf blowers for our drywashers and vacuums.

grey

 

Don't want to get too deep into politics, but it is really giant corporate agribusiness that drives this alky 'renewable fuels' shenanigan.

They could not care less about what their alcohol does to your machines.

You don't have to like it, you just have to buy it.

You ought to know that the likes of Archer Daniels Midland Corp. has more sway over what the government does than all the tree huggers that ever lived.

 

Here is what I use:

http://lucasoil.com/products/fuel-tr...th-stabilizers

Or this;
http://http://www.bellperformance.co...el-stabilizers


Then I add;


Then the two stroke oil.

I'm not having as many issues as I did but all these additives do add to the cost. But I haven't found a way around it. Let that alky gas sit in a gas can for a week or two and it starts getting acidic / corrosive and attacking the fuel system.

I'm thinking of putting drain plugs in the cars sit for the winter so I can just drain the tank.

Oh; Sears sells little cans of alky free gas for small engines, saw it last year. Another place is racing fuel; Torco comes to mind, alky free in 35 gal drums.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111716922865?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82

 

I buy 100LL aviation gas for use in my small engines and my old motorcycles.

No alcohol in it, for obvious safety reasons.

I find no need for the use of any fuel stabilisers.

Can't use it in anything with cats or O2 sensors though, because the lead will quickly foul them.

 

This is the route more and more people with older vehicles are finding is the only solution.

I agree; no additives needed.

 

I like Lucas products, have to look into them...

Hey I couldn't get the 2nd link to work...

grey

 

So here comes a dumb question, drum roll please!

If I get a carb rebuild kit will it come with current gas compatible gaskets and seal and diaphragms? Same question for a rebuilt or new carb?

grey

 

I know that I have bought kits for Rochester quadra-floods and Carter AFBs' that were advertised to contain modern fuel resistant elastomer components.

Who knows what you might really get??

Even with alky compatable soft parts, the battle is only partly won, because the decomposing oxygenated fuel attacks the fuel system metals themselves, and fouls the carbs with corrosion products after a while.

 

Does the same thing with fuel injector rails on the 22re.

 

I tell ya what folks, this "new gas" is helping us sell a lot of new outboard engines at the marina where I work. the passages are so small the carbs on most small horsepower outboards that after they sit for more than 2 years we just throw the carbs into the trash.
The fuel sitting for along period produces an acid and it also creates electrolysis between the dissimilar metals.