Rebuilt engine using a quart of oil every 100 miles HELP!!!
11-30-2015, 04:45 PM
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Rebuilt engine using a quart of oil every 100 miles HELP!!!
Just got 500miles on rebuilt 22r using a quart of oil every 100miles and it's not leaking and exhaust is not smokey. Everything is new on engine so not sure what's it could be. Got another new pcv valve just incase I got a bad one. Any ideas? Please help
11-30-2015, 05:14 PM
#2
What oil have you used since the first start (brand, grade, synthetic or not) and what was your break-in procedure? Maybe it is a break-in fault, maybe it is not broken in yet, maybe it is an assembly fault such as bad ring gap tolerances, aligned rings, broken ring, badly installed valve seals etc. If it is taking a quart every 100 miles and not leaking, it is definately smoking. That's what my first 22r was consuming, and it was puffing like crazy. It is a new motor, before taking it appart give yourselft a last chance, use the cheapest dyno oil, or break-in oil, and drive it hard. Floor it in second and let it compress in third and repeat, it will be your last chance to seat the rings.
11-30-2015, 07:49 PM
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Castrol gtx 10w40 is what I put in it. I started it let it get hot, cut it off let it cool down drove it till it got hot 1st thru 3rd at 3000rpms cut it off let it sit overnight then started driving it still running it up to in high rpms and letting it coast down hills in 4th at 65 70mph. It's got 470miles on it now, going to change oil tom using castrol 10w40. Then going to change oil at 3000miles and start using royal purple 10w40 full synthetic and change every 3000 miles. Also I am only using 93octane fuel and when I can get to no ethenol I do. Thanks for the help! ( one guy told me to red light it in every gear) I don't think he has a Toyota cause it's pretty impossible to red light it in 4th or 5th or at least where I live.
12-01-2015, 06:26 AM
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Ok my mechanic came and looked at it. He said it was the carb. I new it had a small leak but didn't know it could hurt anything till I ordered the Webber I want. Going to order a Webber and see where it goes from there. Now all I need is a new starter and alternator and everything will be new.
12-01-2015, 07:01 AM
#6
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Not very likely that a different carb is gonna reduce your oil consumption.
Is this the same mechanic that 'rebuilt' the engine???
Is this the same mechanic that 'rebuilt' the engine???
Last edited by millball; 12-01-2015 at 10:49 AM.
12-01-2015, 07:06 AM
#7
How extensive was the rebuild? Was it just a re-ring or full blown rebuild? If new rings were put into old worn cylinders then nothing would have been solved. Were the valve stem seals replaced? Worn valve stem seals are typically the source of "smokeless" oil consumption on these engines. Also, if the engine wasn't bored and honed properly, your cylinders can be out of round and cause problems with the rings seating properly.
Although it shouldn't, It really isn't extremely uncommon for a rebuilt engine to consume oil. It does take time for the rings to fully seat - you'll know when they do because you'll start feeling an increase in power. This should take less than 500 miles, but sometimes can take longer. Here are my recommendations for you:
1-Unless you live in some sort of hell hot climate, you need to ditch the 10W-40 oil. 10W-30 is typically recommended for break-in on these engines. Personally, I always use Valvoline conventional oil in all of my rebuild. After rebuilding dozens of different engines, I have never had one fail to properly break in.
2-You need to use a zinc additive in your oil during break in - ESPECIALLY if you have a new cam shaft or crank. You can get expensive conventional break-in oil (like Joe Gibbs oil), but I just add a zinc additive to the Valvoline and I'm good to go. Lucas oil and STP both make a good additive. During the engine's regular heat cycle, the zinc helps harden the metal wear surfaces in your engine (ie: Cam shaft lobes, rockers, rings, cylinder walls, crank shaft journals, etc) and greatly reduces potential wear.
3-I would not recommend ever going to synthetic. Unless you have built a very high performance engine, it is a complete waste of money. Here is my basic rule of thumb, if the manufacture doesn't recommend synthetic oil then don't use it. These engines go 300,000+ miles on conventional oil so something has to be right with that, right??
4-Why would you ever use 93 Octane?? In case you were unaware, higher octane DOES NOT equal more power. The higher the octane, the more resistant the fuel is to combustion. You use higher octane fuels in performance engines that usually have a compression ratio in excess of 11:1 for normally aspirated engines. They are also used in forced induction engines with lower compression ratios. The idea of higher octane fuels is to resist combustion so that the fuel mixture has time to fully compress before igniting. A stock 22R engine has a 9:1 compression ratio, which is not considered to be high enough for increased octane fuel. After I bored out my engine when I rebuilt it, I calculated my compression ratio to be 9.845:1 and I don't use anything over 87 octane. I tried out mid-grade once and my engine was stumbling and sluggish. The timing can be adjusted to minimize the effects of using the inappropriate fuel, but that is not the correct way to go about fuel selection. So what does this have to do with oil consumption? If you aren't completely burning the fuel induced into the engine, the fuel left behind does two things. 1) it "washes" the cylinder walls (thus a possible reason why your rings aren't seating) and 2) fuel is thinner than oil and can easily seep pass the rings causing your oil to be contaminated (and rings not to seat). Oil contaminated with fuel burns easier and cleaner so might not think you're burning oil because there isn't a cloud of blue smoke following you around, but it is - it is just cleaner because you have fuel in it. Do the sniffer test on you oil cap, I bet it smells like raw fuel. If you're using premium because you're concerned about the ethanol in lower grades damaging your engine then your choosing it for the wrong reason because it is damaging your engine more per the reasons above than ethanol ever would. Ethanol doesn't ruin engines, it ruins carbs. Keep your tank full and use a fuel stabilizer when you aren't driving the truck for a while and you will likely never have an ethanol problem.
5-This whole drive the truck like you stole it or granny it during break-in or drive it like you intend to drive it regularly is a bunch of garbage. I like to use the example of NHRA top fuel dragsters - they rebuild those engines between EVERY pass. They run the crap out of them for a 1/8 or 1/4 mile and then they tear it all apart and do it again. Obviously there is a competitive advantage of rebuilding after each pass, but clearly the engine doesn't hold up to repeat abuse. The point I am trying to make here is the way you drive the truck will determine the life of the engine. If you are constantly hard on it, don't expect it to last very long. Breaking-in an engine is simply a matter of getting it through several heat cycles and slightly wearing down and hardening metal surfaces so that they glide smoothly against each other. When I break in an engine, all I do is bump the idle up to about 1,500 RPM and let it sit there for about 15-20 minutes for the initial start up. Then I simply drive the thing like a normal human being. By normal I mean like you have your mom, a cop, a judge and a preacher in the truck with you and you don't want to get grounded, a ticket, thrown in jail or kicked out of church as a result of your driving habits. These myths about lugging the engine or down shifting at high speeds are doing nothing for you. Think about it, when you lug an engine you are dumping more fuel in it than it can adequately burn - that ain't good. When you down shift and let off of the gas guess what is NOT going into the engine? Yep, that's right, when your carb is closed you don't have the proper air and fuel going to the engine for that RPM - you drivetrain is driving your engine, not your foot. Why do you think that the exhaust cracks and pops when downshifting? Bottomline, you don't have to drive like a granny during the break-in, just drive like you normally would and be patient - the rings will eventually seat.
Although it shouldn't, It really isn't extremely uncommon for a rebuilt engine to consume oil. It does take time for the rings to fully seat - you'll know when they do because you'll start feeling an increase in power. This should take less than 500 miles, but sometimes can take longer. Here are my recommendations for you:
1-Unless you live in some sort of hell hot climate, you need to ditch the 10W-40 oil. 10W-30 is typically recommended for break-in on these engines. Personally, I always use Valvoline conventional oil in all of my rebuild. After rebuilding dozens of different engines, I have never had one fail to properly break in.
2-You need to use a zinc additive in your oil during break in - ESPECIALLY if you have a new cam shaft or crank. You can get expensive conventional break-in oil (like Joe Gibbs oil), but I just add a zinc additive to the Valvoline and I'm good to go. Lucas oil and STP both make a good additive. During the engine's regular heat cycle, the zinc helps harden the metal wear surfaces in your engine (ie: Cam shaft lobes, rockers, rings, cylinder walls, crank shaft journals, etc) and greatly reduces potential wear.
3-I would not recommend ever going to synthetic. Unless you have built a very high performance engine, it is a complete waste of money. Here is my basic rule of thumb, if the manufacture doesn't recommend synthetic oil then don't use it. These engines go 300,000+ miles on conventional oil so something has to be right with that, right??
4-Why would you ever use 93 Octane?? In case you were unaware, higher octane DOES NOT equal more power. The higher the octane, the more resistant the fuel is to combustion. You use higher octane fuels in performance engines that usually have a compression ratio in excess of 11:1 for normally aspirated engines. They are also used in forced induction engines with lower compression ratios. The idea of higher octane fuels is to resist combustion so that the fuel mixture has time to fully compress before igniting. A stock 22R engine has a 9:1 compression ratio, which is not considered to be high enough for increased octane fuel. After I bored out my engine when I rebuilt it, I calculated my compression ratio to be 9.845:1 and I don't use anything over 87 octane. I tried out mid-grade once and my engine was stumbling and sluggish. The timing can be adjusted to minimize the effects of using the inappropriate fuel, but that is not the correct way to go about fuel selection. So what does this have to do with oil consumption? If you aren't completely burning the fuel induced into the engine, the fuel left behind does two things. 1) it "washes" the cylinder walls (thus a possible reason why your rings aren't seating) and 2) fuel is thinner than oil and can easily seep pass the rings causing your oil to be contaminated (and rings not to seat). Oil contaminated with fuel burns easier and cleaner so might not think you're burning oil because there isn't a cloud of blue smoke following you around, but it is - it is just cleaner because you have fuel in it. Do the sniffer test on you oil cap, I bet it smells like raw fuel. If you're using premium because you're concerned about the ethanol in lower grades damaging your engine then your choosing it for the wrong reason because it is damaging your engine more per the reasons above than ethanol ever would. Ethanol doesn't ruin engines, it ruins carbs. Keep your tank full and use a fuel stabilizer when you aren't driving the truck for a while and you will likely never have an ethanol problem.
5-This whole drive the truck like you stole it or granny it during break-in or drive it like you intend to drive it regularly is a bunch of garbage. I like to use the example of NHRA top fuel dragsters - they rebuild those engines between EVERY pass. They run the crap out of them for a 1/8 or 1/4 mile and then they tear it all apart and do it again. Obviously there is a competitive advantage of rebuilding after each pass, but clearly the engine doesn't hold up to repeat abuse. The point I am trying to make here is the way you drive the truck will determine the life of the engine. If you are constantly hard on it, don't expect it to last very long. Breaking-in an engine is simply a matter of getting it through several heat cycles and slightly wearing down and hardening metal surfaces so that they glide smoothly against each other. When I break in an engine, all I do is bump the idle up to about 1,500 RPM and let it sit there for about 15-20 minutes for the initial start up. Then I simply drive the thing like a normal human being. By normal I mean like you have your mom, a cop, a judge and a preacher in the truck with you and you don't want to get grounded, a ticket, thrown in jail or kicked out of church as a result of your driving habits. These myths about lugging the engine or down shifting at high speeds are doing nothing for you. Think about it, when you lug an engine you are dumping more fuel in it than it can adequately burn - that ain't good. When you down shift and let off of the gas guess what is NOT going into the engine? Yep, that's right, when your carb is closed you don't have the proper air and fuel going to the engine for that RPM - you drivetrain is driving your engine, not your foot. Why do you think that the exhaust cracks and pops when downshifting? Bottomline, you don't have to drive like a granny during the break-in, just drive like you normally would and be patient - the rings will eventually seat.
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12-01-2015, 12:38 PM
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My bad I have been using 10w30 not 40 and thanks for the tip about gas and oil. The guy who built my engine bored it 20 over and everything is new besides the crank and it was ground. It has a three angle valve job. Ordered the new carb changing the oil today.
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