peow130

It just says that because it's so thick lol.
Might consider going to a thick high-mileage oil, but don't go to a thin oil.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

FREAKING FANTASTICALACIOUSIBULOUSAWESOME! LOL. Right on, bud! I'm so happy for ya, .... glad you're not screwed out of your transpo for now/that it was 'doable' with less cabbage output! AWESOME!

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

If you haven't driven it yet, the high PSI might just be due to the oil being cold, it might go down when it warms up as the oil will thin out some.

peow130

True, you might consider a block heater.

GeminiFire

ok first of all, whats a block heater? lol

I drove the truck several times around town today, got it up in the higher rpm range on the highway, and everything is running smoothly, still no knock or anything. im just totally floored with happiness about it all.

The PSI is at about 50-60 depending on how i drive it once its warmed up. not only that, but i got a WORKING aftermarket 2" temp gauge mounted where the amp gauge used to be in the lower gauge pod. i also go the lights for both those gauges wired into the head light circuit.(the oil pressure gauge has replaced the stock non working one also in the lower gauge pod). Things are looking good. even on the highway the temp stays at about 190 when hot.

So now my question is(and perhaps this would be best asked on a new thread) where should i go to get the few grommets i need to close up the drain holes on the truck floor and a few in the firewall as well. i think the holes are anywhere from about 1/2 inch to about 3/4 or an inch.

Peow, dont worry i wont go too much thinner i think just ill look into the higher mileage thick oil or perhaps go down a to the next thinner type. not sure yet i still want to drive it for about a week before i do an oil change.

and THANKS chefyota for the kind words! its been an adventure for sure!

peow130

I honestly wouldnt worry too much, it's just due to the fact that you have really thick oil lol.
In fact, 50-60 is pretty normal
65Psi is like full load on these engines.
I'd be worried if you suddenly started spewing oil out of every orifice, and still had high PSI.

Anyways, a block heater just keeps the engine block warm when the truck is turned off. Those 0* mornings in oregon and washington, arent too bad after a block heater. And with thick oil like that, it'll be like turning over a diesel filled with honey.

GeminiFire

I definitely need some anti-freeze instead of water. im worried about the water in there freezing(ive had so many issues with this truck that i just put water in the radiator until i finally get this thing running for awhile). is there a place to get a bunch of it for less than like 15 or 20 bucks a bottle?

once my truck warms up and idling the oil pressure is closer to 20psi upon further inspection. but when im driving its around 50psi so its all good. Although now my blinkers stopped working.. i think its a fuse but i only noticed on my way home last night with no flashlight, so ill look into that today at some point.

a block heater sounds good, but honestly this truck starts right up and after feathering the gas for a minute or so it idles nicely. but just out of curiosity where can i get a block heater and how much do they go for?

peow130

oreillys and i'm not sure of the price.
as far as the coolant goes, go buy a gallon of the unmixxed stuff, drain half your water, and pour the unmixed in. you can run it under 50/50 no problems, i run mine 70/30 year round with no freezing issues.

GeminiFire

Yeah i think ill go get some of that non mixed antifreeze, and thanks for answering what would have been my follow up question. 70/30 is about what i would do too but i was about to ask lol..

cman1

iTrader: (1)

hmmmm,well ,because of the strawberry milkshake,i,personally would drain,flush.fill. pretty cheap insurance!!

camo31_10.50

thought the strawberry milkshake was only a problem with Auto tacoma's and 3rd gen runners?

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

I don't think that is what he meant to say, the first post stated that OP's first motor went out from his water pump gasket leaking and mixing with his oil, so I assume that is what cman1 meant, but I would think that he should have drained the whole thing anyway since it has had quite a bit of work since then.

GeminiFire

i would love to flush the oil AND the coolant passages. i know they have a flush compound(probably lots of kinds too) for the radiator/coolant, but is there stuff i can use to flush my crank case and get all that old varnish off the inner walls? i used seafoam but when i have the valve cover off it seems to still be pretty nasty in there.

cman1

iTrader: (1)

i would just get it warm,oil change,then pull the lower radiator hose and drain the water.re-fill. cheap insurance.i wouldnt put any type of cleaners in the oil as they tend to thin out the oil...which would defeat the purpose of your intense labor.my 2cents.

cman1

iTrader: (1)

thats what i meant about the milkshake,yota radiator fliuid is red...origionally.

peow130

You could run ATF in your oil about 500 miles before your next oil change, and then start running a high-mileage oil. The ATF has strong detergents that will clean the valve train.

The high mileage oil has detergents that just clean anything.

kdo58

I used engine cleaner, in a high mileage motor, It work to good loosend up the varnish, then I had to rebuild it it was smoking so bad.
some old guy told me when He was young and pour He would cut up a leather belt and use that for bearings.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

ATF is also known to trap H20, .... When I blew my HG, right after the last rebuild(it just was defective), I flushed the best I could, then ran oil with a quart of ATF in there, ..... it barely steamed on start up and then NO steam after flush and fill with the official break in oil.

GeminiFire

ok cool thanks guys, ill definitely do the ATF quart thing tomorrow. that sounds like it will work. well guys just to update you, the truck is running GREAT. now that the electric choke is up and running it starts right up even on these colder oregon days and will now idle after i feather the gas for about 15 seconds. it idles right at 900rpm im so happy...

now im trying to figure out why i have "death wobble" at about 35-40 mph. wheels and tires and balanced and matching. everything seems tight with wheel bearings and all the running gear bushings and stuff. any ideas?

RED7

I read this thread last night and I just wanted to say WOW! I was SO excited when I read that you pulled it off. This is defiantly something I'll keep in mind if I'm ever in a tough situation. Best of luck and may your Toyota out live you.