Clutch bleeding
#1
Clutch bleeding
gradually lost my clutch preasure yesterday.
There is a slight leak at the floor board.
resivoir was empty.
I replace the fuid in the resivoir but need help bleeding it. I have no Idea where the bleeding valve is? I looked for pictures on the net and can't find any.
prolly should just break down and go buy a manual....................unless there is some online help.....pictures.
Thanks.
There is a slight leak at the floor board.
resivoir was empty.
I replace the fuid in the resivoir but need help bleeding it. I have no Idea where the bleeding valve is? I looked for pictures on the net and can't find any.
prolly should just break down and go buy a manual....................unless there is some online help.....pictures.
Thanks.
#3
What he said.
You can buy/borrow a power bleeder or pump, which is nice, or...well it depends on whether you've got help. I do the one-man method so you'd need either a pump, or a peice of tubing that fits the bleeder valve, coming off of it and then the other end submerged in a little cup or something of brake fluid. You then pump the clutch, making sure that the level in the reservoir doesn't get down far enough to suck air in. If you've got help, you can just make sure the reservoir's topped off, loosen the bleed screw (on the slave/release cylinder), and have somebody pump the clutch a few times. While they're holding the pedal down you tighten the screw back up and there should be no air in it. This will get brake fluid all over but works fine.
The point is that with the bleeder screw open and the clutch pedal in, the fluid is being forced that direction, pushing out air with it. If you let up on the pedal with the screw open, things move the other way and you're going to suck air back in. That's why with the one man method you use a hose submerged in brake fluid. When pushing the pedal it lets air out, but when the pedal goes back up, all it can suck back in is the brake fluid the hose is submerged in.
If it helps, I can grab my FSM at lunch and scan the page showing how to do it.
You can buy/borrow a power bleeder or pump, which is nice, or...well it depends on whether you've got help. I do the one-man method so you'd need either a pump, or a peice of tubing that fits the bleeder valve, coming off of it and then the other end submerged in a little cup or something of brake fluid. You then pump the clutch, making sure that the level in the reservoir doesn't get down far enough to suck air in. If you've got help, you can just make sure the reservoir's topped off, loosen the bleed screw (on the slave/release cylinder), and have somebody pump the clutch a few times. While they're holding the pedal down you tighten the screw back up and there should be no air in it. This will get brake fluid all over but works fine.
The point is that with the bleeder screw open and the clutch pedal in, the fluid is being forced that direction, pushing out air with it. If you let up on the pedal with the screw open, things move the other way and you're going to suck air back in. That's why with the one man method you use a hose submerged in brake fluid. When pushing the pedal it lets air out, but when the pedal goes back up, all it can suck back in is the brake fluid the hose is submerged in.
If it helps, I can grab my FSM at lunch and scan the page showing how to do it.
Last edited by 83; 04-01-2009 at 07:12 AM.
#4
Thanks for the replies......
I bought the manual.
right side of the bell housing.
wife is going to push the pedal.
It is our 18th anniversary(wife and I...not the truck). So I thought that would be a good anniversary thing to do together..........I'm a real romantic.
I bought the manual.
right side of the bell housing.
wife is going to push the pedal.
It is our 18th anniversary(wife and I...not the truck). So I thought that would be a good anniversary thing to do together..........I'm a real romantic.
#7
Oh man I kind of missed that in the first post, I thought you replaced the master cylinder, not just the fluid in it. Yeah, if it's leaking, replace it, or the same thing will just keep happening. It is a good idea to replace both cylinders at the same time, so do the slave while you're at it. Neither are very expensive.
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#8
between the two of them, I think like 50 bucks, at least mine were. I just let gravity do the work when I did mine, left the bleeder cracked, and filled the master until it was overfull and let the fluid get pulled down to the slave, closed the slave and topped off the master.
#9
Gravity is the easiest way to bleed it but sometimes it doesnt get all the air unless u submerge the fill cup with brake fluid. Also if your going to bleed it you mind as well flush it to. Just open bleeder and have a cup to catch the fluid. It works VERY well if u have 2 people. One to poor a bunch of fluid in master cylinder while the other one pumps clutch. It cycles the fluid very fast and also does it with force so it gets all the dirt out of the slave as well. Drip flushing doesnt really get the slave all that well.
I just flushed mine yesterday and the brake fluid that came out was very dark and filled with crap. Also make sure you adjust the free play on the clutch.
I just flushed mine yesterday and the brake fluid that came out was very dark and filled with crap. Also make sure you adjust the free play on the clutch.
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