CA Smog solutions?
#1
CA Smog solutions?
I live in CA and our smog is a pain in the ass, & my carb is really worn, & not many places rebuild them anymore, since most other states allow for the webers, & aftermarket carbs is it easy to find a factory one, possibly in good condition.?
What do any of you do here in CA.?
And anyone outside of CA, do you have any stock carbs in decent condition.?
Wish i could just throw a Weber on it.
Thanks
What do any of you do here in CA.?
And anyone outside of CA, do you have any stock carbs in decent condition.?
Wish i could just throw a Weber on it.
Thanks
#5
I'll see what i can find.
*edit*
This seems to be the ticket, just have to do a little more research, but it seems like the right direction.!
http://www.lceperformance.com/22R-We...-p/1030063.htm
Last edited by Chili327; 07-02-2015 at 09:45 PM. Reason: Added link
#6
Rebuilding your carb is not as difficult as it sounds. Soak it in the bucket of Berryman's (Walmart sells it for cheap) for a couple of days and get a rebuild kit from the local autoparts store. Take pictures before you remove it from the truck and while you disassemble it, and it is not that difficult. Adjust the idle mixture as close as you can, then ask the smog shop to fine-tune it before running the test.
#7
Thanks, but, not trying to get it smogged. I just got it smogged last week.
I'm just wanting to know what smog legal options are out there.
I probably should have said that it just passed smog in my post.
Thanks tho
Maybe just rebuilding mine is my best option.. just heard that no one rebuilds them & parts/kits were hard to come by. Not sure why I believed them, since these days everything is available. lol
I'm just wanting to know what smog legal options are out there.
I probably should have said that it just passed smog in my post.
Thanks tho
Maybe just rebuilding mine is my best option.. just heard that no one rebuilds them & parts/kits were hard to come by. Not sure why I believed them, since these days everything is available. lol
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#8
LC Engineering sells smog legal Weber carbs to '83:
http://www.lceperformance.com/Weber-...show=15&page=1
If you are working on the truck in your avatar, then it should work.
If you want to rebuild yours, you can get a rebuild kit and a new float at Autozone. I do remember the kits were hard to find a few years back, but it seems to be easier now. What is the problem with the one you have? Vacuum leaks and emission control problems can seem like carburetor problems, plus there are some adjustments that can be made to the stock carburetor like the idle mixture and choke.
http://www.lceperformance.com/Weber-...show=15&page=1
If you are working on the truck in your avatar, then it should work.
If you want to rebuild yours, you can get a rebuild kit and a new float at Autozone. I do remember the kits were hard to find a few years back, but it seems to be easier now. What is the problem with the one you have? Vacuum leaks and emission control problems can seem like carburetor problems, plus there are some adjustments that can be made to the stock carburetor like the idle mixture and choke.
Last edited by the_supernerd; 07-04-2015 at 11:48 PM.
#9
I had just bought the truck & dropped it off at a shop first thing, and that mechanic said he took it apart soaked everything, etc. He got it to pass smog, but it still runs like crap so now I found a place locally that will do a rebuild on the carb.
When it ran right it sounded good, but out of nowhere it would just load up & sputter. So hopefully this rebuild will fix it so I can move on to other things.. it needs a lot of work everywhere.. inside & out.
When it ran right it sounded good, but out of nowhere it would just load up & sputter. So hopefully this rebuild will fix it so I can move on to other things.. it needs a lot of work everywhere.. inside & out.
Last edited by Terrys87; 07-08-2015 at 02:34 PM.
#11
I had just bought the truck & dropped it off at a shop first thing, and that mechanic said he took it apart soaked everything, etc. He got it to pass smog, but it still runs like ˟˟˟˟˟ so now I found a place locally that will do a rebuild on the carb.
When it ran right it sounded good, but out of nowhere it would just load up & sputter. So hopefully this rebuild will fix it so I can move on to other things.. it needs a lot of work everywhere.. inside & out.
When it ran right it sounded good, but out of nowhere it would just load up & sputter. So hopefully this rebuild will fix it so I can move on to other things.. it needs a lot of work everywhere.. inside & out.
How do i know which carb to use.. is an 81 22R the same as my 83 22R.? (Also, is an 84 22R the same.?)
I'm just going to try to find one in decent shape & run it as is for now.
Thanks for the info
#12
Not sure on which stock carb you would need. If looking for a used carb, I have seen the pivot points just wallow out causing lots of vacuum leaks. Just something to look for when looking at a used Aisian carb. Most have 250k mile and am sure have several million cycles on the pivot points.
#13
Keep in mind that CA smog truck and federal smog trucks are different. I am not sure about the exact years, but I would think '81-'83 should be the same, and the newer years would probably work as long as all the vacuum ports are there.
I agree with Terrys87 about used carbs having a ton of miles. More than likely you would end up rebuilding the junkyard carb, especially if it has been sitting a while. This might be the best time to get a Weber if you want one since you will be putting the money into a used carb anyway.
I have also seen chinese carbs on ebay for just over $100 new. I am not sure how good that would be, but it might get you by for now.
I agree with Terrys87 about used carbs having a ton of miles. More than likely you would end up rebuilding the junkyard carb, especially if it has been sitting a while. This might be the best time to get a Weber if you want one since you will be putting the money into a used carb anyway.
I have also seen chinese carbs on ebay for just over $100 new. I am not sure how good that would be, but it might get you by for now.
#14
Thanks for the info...
I found a used one (actually a few), i'm going to check them out this weekend, if any look decent they're only $40 so it could get me running reliably again at least for a while.
I'll be sure to match it up exactly.
I found a used one (actually a few), i'm going to check them out this weekend, if any look decent they're only $40 so it could get me running reliably again at least for a while.
I'll be sure to match it up exactly.
#15
Sounds like a good enough deal. Make sure all the linkage works, everything is tight, and is not so gummed up that parts don't move. If you can, bring a small amount of fuel, a suction bulb, and some old fuel line. Fill the carb through the fuel inlet. When it stops, make sure the carb is perfectly level and see if the fuel is in the sight glass or close. If you can apply about 3-4 PSI to the hose after filling it that would be ideal to make sure the float and needle are in good shape. You might try blowing into the hose as hard as you can if you do not have a better air source. Basically you are checking that the needle is still able to seal when the float is up.
With fuel in the carb, pump the accelerator pump a few times and make sure it squirts fuel smoothly. Those tests will not test everything, but it would at least show that it has a chance at working.
Cleaning it up with carb cleaner after you buy it is not a bad idea, even if you do not open it. You can even take the idle mixture screw and fuel cut solenoid out and spray carb cleaner down those passages to clean the idle circuit. The plug on the bottom of the bowl will give you access to the main primary jet, so you could try spraying carb cleaner in there, also. Everything else that I can think of to clean involves destroying gaskets more significant than just an o-ring.
With fuel in the carb, pump the accelerator pump a few times and make sure it squirts fuel smoothly. Those tests will not test everything, but it would at least show that it has a chance at working.
Cleaning it up with carb cleaner after you buy it is not a bad idea, even if you do not open it. You can even take the idle mixture screw and fuel cut solenoid out and spray carb cleaner down those passages to clean the idle circuit. The plug on the bottom of the bowl will give you access to the main primary jet, so you could try spraying carb cleaner in there, also. Everything else that I can think of to clean involves destroying gaskets more significant than just an o-ring.
Last edited by the_supernerd; 07-08-2015 at 11:42 PM.
#16
Sounds like a good enough deal. Make sure all the linkage works, everything is tight, and is not so gummed up that parts don't move. If you can, bring a small amount of fuel, a suction bulb, and some old fuel line. Fill the carb through the fuel inlet. When it stops, make sure the carb is perfectly level and see if the fuel is in the sight glass or close. If you can apply about 3-4 PSI to the hose after filling it that would be ideal to make sure the float and needle are in good shape. You might try blowing into the hose as hard as you can if you do not have a better air source. Basically you are checking that the needle is still able to seal when the float is up.
With fuel in the carb, pump the accelerator pump a few times and make sure it squirts fuel smoothly. Those tests will not test everything, but it would at least show that it has a chance at working.
Cleaning it up with carb cleaner after you buy it is not a bad idea, even if you do not open it. You can even take the idle mixture screw and fuel cut solenoid out and spray carb cleaner down those passages to clean the idle circuit. The plug on the bottom of the bowl will give you access to the main primary jet, so you could try spraying carb cleaner in there, also. Everything else that I can think of to clean involves destroying gaskets more significant than just an o-ring.
With fuel in the carb, pump the accelerator pump a few times and make sure it squirts fuel smoothly. Those tests will not test everything, but it would at least show that it has a chance at working.
Cleaning it up with carb cleaner after you buy it is not a bad idea, even if you do not open it. You can even take the idle mixture screw and fuel cut solenoid out and spray carb cleaner down those passages to clean the idle circuit. The plug on the bottom of the bowl will give you access to the main primary jet, so you could try spraying carb cleaner in there, also. Everything else that I can think of to clean involves destroying gaskets more significant than just an o-ring.
I actually bought a rebuild kit so im going to rebuild it, then just swap it on. (as long as the new/used on is in better shape, otherwise i'll just rebuild my own.)
#17
That is the best way to do it, then you also have your old carb for parts. By the way, it is worth getting a can of Berryman's at Walmart for less than $20 to soak it for a few days. Good luck!
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