When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Here’s another video I did for YouTube. My voice is drowned out a lot because of the engine running. It’s my first attempt at making and editing a video. I’ll get better.
I went ahead purchased the MPVI2 from HP tuners. Mitch from SwapTime was able to remotely log into my computer while it was connected to my ECU and tune it. It took him about 10 or 15 minutes. It’s running great now. He really knows his stuff. With HP Tuners you can change just about anything in the ECU. I set my idle speed a bit higher to 650rpms. It can also read any codes it may have and reset them.
It turns out even though I don’t have a tachometer I can still have a tachometer, lol. The Dakota Digital BIM module reads all of the information from the engine ECU. All I had to do was set it up in the gauges to read the signal from the BIM module. So the LCD on the speedometer can display everything the ECU is “telling” the BIM. Transmission temp, intake temp, tachometer, what gear you are in, and all other things you would normally have a gauge for, like volts, oil pressure, engine temp....etc. There is a button to scroll through these readings.
Still waiting it on my shims from 4crawler.
Ordered driveshafts from Tom Woods yesterday. I thought it would take them 6-8 weeks. Nope. They’ll be at my house next week! I’ll post some pictures and stuff when they get here. I gave him all of my measurements and he suggested the extreme angle driveshaft with the Superflex U-joint for the front. No double cardon. I will however have a double cardon on the rear driveshaft. All their Gold Seal serviceable 1310 joints, except for the Superflex joint, which is serviceable too.
Discombobulated- yes! I’m getting pretty anxious. It will be really nice to be able to get this on the road and start testing things.
I didn’t know this, but one of my sons makes professional videos for training purposes as one area of his job. He’s going to help me out with future videos so, hopefully they will be much better and you’ll actually be able to hear me!
4crawler still hasn’t sent me the tracking number, so I know the shims aren’t even in the mail. I still have a few things I need to work on the truck anyway. I need to tidy up the wiring and add some interior floor lighting. My main dilemma at the moment is finding a spot for the AC condenser. I think I have some tubing from Summit delivered today. If so I can finish out the exhaust all the way to the tail pipe.
Now for a controversy oh subject. I did a lot of reading on driveshaft bolts. Very rarely did the conversation turn to clamping force. I would love to use a new factory 10 mm Toyota bolts but Troy at Tom Woods Driveshaft said they wouldn’t be long enough with the 1310 flanges. You can buy 10 mm 1.25 pitch bolts from ARP, but the 10 mm 1.25 pitch nuts are extremely expensive! However, the three eights inch 24 pitch bolts have the same exact clamping force as the 10 mm. And that’s what it’s about; clamping force. Although I’m sure most box store grade 8 bolts can get the job done, I don’t think I could trust them. The ARP bolts are stronger than grade 8 and you know what kind of quality you’re getting. They’re still not cheap though. I ordered some 50mm long bolts. They should be plenty long enough and also contain a nice non-threaded area for the inside of the flange bolt holes.
Last edited by Trueblue93; 09-12-2019 at 07:53 PM.
Reason: spelling
Well, I got to drive it around the block tonight. Engine runs smoothly. The transmission shifts smoothly, I was gentle on the gas but could feel the potential at the slightest push. There were a lot of creeks and pops going on. I'm not sure if was from the body lift, the new suspension all the way around, the tc/tranny mount, the brakes. I'm too tired to try to figure it out. I'll try to get my buddy over and help me diagnose these things. The brakes felt very weak. There was some surface rust and probably some brake fluid on the rotors. I'll clean that off with some brake cleaner before going back around the block again. It could be air in the line. Maybe the master cylinder bore is not big enough. I could be several things. When putting it in drive or reverse, it feels like the suspension is loading up (diving down or up depending on which gear). I'll have to see what its doing with someone else behind the wheel. My neighbors came out to congratulate me. My wife could still care less, lol. Anyway, good times.
Take your time man, savor this moment of awesomeness, you’ll get it all dialed in and it’s gonna be fricken wonderful I’m with your neighbors congratulating you!!!!
I have the LV3 on my engine stand now this swap pushed me over the edge I knew of one in a salvage yard in Mississippi.
i have the older 4.3 in a Samurai now hope I can put it all together.
Hey bump530, I have almost everything worked out. The brakes are giving me a fit. I now suspect that it may be the stainless steel braided brake line expanding just enough to rob pressure from the pistons. I'm going to order some hard line and make some up. I think it is good enough to get inspected but I still don't trust them.
FDXMD11C, I'm glad to hear it. That is the whole reason I did this build thread. I hope you can glean enough information to get the job done. Be prepared to spend $$$$, and time, and your sanity. Are you going to start a build thread on it?
Discombobulated, I took the Mrs for a ride this evening. I gave it about 30% throttle after it shifted to 2nd and her eyes got real wide!!! The torque feels great. You don't have to push the peddle very far to get the thing moving. It will downshift if it gets to a certain throttle position but it's overkill. I could see doing that getting on the highway or something. I'll try to get it inspected tomorrow after work and then start working on a brake solution. I worked about 12 hours strait in the heat yesterday trying to get some loose ends tied up. I finally finished the exhaust all the way to the tail pipe. It's pretty loud when I first start it but quiets down a lot after it warms up.
Quick update. No pictures on this one. I haven't had time to take any good ones. I have been doing lots of testing, especially on the brakes. Motor runs great. Trans shifts great. No overheating issues. Trans cooler works great. I think it cuts in around 185. For a while I didn't drive over 45mph because I still hadn't received the shims for the pinion angles. I did receive them and installed the rear shims. The Mrs wanted a chest of drawers from Nebraska Furniture, so she ordered it online and I went and picked it up. It was the first time I went faster than 45mph. I pulled to 60 with no effort at about 50% throttle. I kept it there for a few miles and pulled over at a gas station to check for leaks. There were a couple of drops on the return line from the trans cooler. I tightened it up about a 1/8th turn and went on. I had to get onto a toll road (121) which has a speed limit of 75 (I think) so I gave it a little more peddle and was at 70 with no problems. I held it there for about a mile and got the dreaded "Engine Warning Light". I slowed down and exited as soon as possible. I forgot to bring my scanner! I checked everything out real good. No leaks, had good oil pressure, no heating problems, no loss of power. I'll mention now that I did get some codes a few days before that were for things the engine no longer has. One was EGR something or other and one was the fan circuit. I reset them and didn't get anymore codes until today. This time it was Knock Sensor 2 code PO331. I looked it up and it shows to more than likely be a bad connection. I'll check it out in the morning. Hopefully that is all that it is. The other code was the fan circuit. The ECM can control the fans if you have the proper units. I have a different system controlled by PWM, so I guess its reading an error with no fan hooked up to the ECM. I was able to go into HPTuners and turn that off. We'll see if it works or not. Also, I didn't hear any knock so I Charlie Miked. The truck runs really nice at highway speed. There's no drifting or wobble or vibrations from the driveline. Just smooth and strait. The jury is still out on how loud it will be. I don't have the AC competed yet, so its 2 windows down in this Texas heat. The truck does, however, still ride like a solid axle 4 wheel drive: bumpy. With the 200lb chest of drawers in the bed it was really smooth though. With the tent and all my gear in the bed I think it will be about a 350lb load. The brakes are not where I want them to be. It easily passed inspection. I replaced some of that stainless steel braided line running to the rear with 3/16" hard line. It did help some. I need to order a couple of connectors before I can finish "upgrading" to hard lines from the MC to the wheels. I thought about starting the brake system from scratch and even ordered an FJZ80 master cylinder. There is not an 86-87 turbo truck power booster to be bought in the US. The 89-95 booster will work, but with some modification to the booster and/or steering column. I'm trying to avoid that but it may be necessary. Supposedly there are some 8.5" dual diaphragm boosters out there somewhere, but I have not found one yet. I almost forgot, I ordered some Super Swamper TSL 34x9.5x15 tires. Still waiting on the muscle car module from SwapTime. Pictures in my next update, I promise.
Well, I can't post any pictures because I'm being held hostage by photobucket. They say I exceeded my bandwidth. I guess there have been a lot of views on this thread. So:
The code the ECM was throwing was indeed a loose connection on the Knock Sensor. It hasn't shown up again. Motor is running great. Mileage is not that good. I refilled at about half a tank (gauge showed a little less than 3/4) and it calculated to 12.61 MPG in almost all city driving. Drivability is excellent. There is so much torque and the truck so light that once its in an overdrive gear it will cruise at 25-30mph at around 1020rpms. I can stay in that same gear all the way to 70mph without it downshifting. I just barely have to give it pedal. On the flip side, I think that might be the cause of low fuel mileage. I'll take that trade off. The VVT and variable cam phasing is just magical with the torque. It feels like a diesel. I just upgraded to 34"x9.5"x15" Super Swamper TSL's (skinnies). At 70mph the rpms are around 1950.
I did install the front spring shims, which brought the castor to 4-5 degrees positive from 10 degrees positive. It steers so much easier now, though it wasn't bad before. I took it on the highway (with the new tires) and there was not wobble and it didn't wander around. My speed was between 65-70mph. I can't help but say it again. Getting to highway speed is just effortless. I absolutely love it. I don't think I ever got to 70mph with the 22r in there. While I had the springs out I took out a leaf which dropped the front end down some. That combined with the pinion rotating up with the 5 degree shim brought the front driveshaft much close to the exhaust crossover. In fact, its hitting the pipe and denting it on not very much compression. I have a new elbow ordered and will be fixing that ASAP. Still working on the brakes. I ordered a flaring tool and a Wilwood proportioning valve. I haven't had time to install it yet. Maybe this weekend I can get it installed.
With everything in place I could finally start fitting the final piece for the A/C, the condenser. It's going under and behind the front bumper at about a 40 degree angle. It's a 12"x14" condenser with its own electric Spal fan. I found some 3/16" perforated plate steel online. The holes are .5" diameter and have .625" spacing to allow cool airflow into the condenser. I needed a rock guard under there anyway. It sits at about a 25-30 degree angle. I'm almost finished with that and then I can get it charged. Since I'm not waiting on the Module from SwapTime anymore, I'm going to pull the interior apart and tidy up all the wiring and put some floor board lighting in. Also, I feel a lot of heat coming through somewhere in the transmission tunnel. I'll lay in some more heat shield and close up any holes I find. Anyhow, when I get some bandwidth from Photobucket I'll post some pictures of all this.
Last edited by Trueblue93; 04-14-2020 at 10:07 PM.
Reason: Delete negative comment about a company
Screw photobucket!!!! You can upload them here just click the little mountain tab and you can upload from your device
I have a sore spot for photobucket for the picture hostage they pulled
Anyway, good times!! I’m a bit jelly, I’ve always wanted to at least do a 3.4 swap but now that I bought my STI I think the 22re will do fine and my engine money will go into my other toy. I wish I just had more damn money.
Last edited by Discombobulated; 10-08-2019 at 08:17 PM.
Discombobulated, I had no idea you could post pictures straight to this forum. I’ll give it a shot on this post.
I’ve always loved those STI‘s. I bet it is really fun to drive. Hey, aren’t you over near Fort Worth? I’ll be going down to my Mom’s farm this fall to take care of some things. I could swing by and shoot the breeze with you. It’s down near Hillsboro. It has a nice big pond stocked with tons of fish that I’m going to camp next to.
Dang dude, the tires!!!!!! The tires!!!!! Make it incredible!!!! I’m over in Colorado though but wish that was me I would love to see it in person. Man the tires just did it, awesome!!!!!
Thanks man. I was worried they’d be too big. I’ll be headed to Colorado with my youngest son in the late spring (fingers crossed) to wheel and camp on the Bueno Vista to Tin Cup Trail. Not sure what other trails we’ll take yet. I just love that whole valley and mountain range from Salida to Leadville.
09-11-2019, 06:22 AM
I’m with your neighbors congratulating you!!!!
