81 huntsman no rear lights
#1
81 huntsman no rear lights
Hey guys, I have an 81 huntsman camper. One night while I was driving the rear marker lights and side lights went out, no rain, no bumps. I've checked all the fuses, wiring, wiring harnesses, relays and switches. The break lights work, the signals work, the reverse lights work, head lights work and front signals work. No trailer light converter box, replaced relays and wiring connections to the side markers. What in the he'll can I do next?
#2
Not to question you, but...if you checked all those things thoroughly, you would have found your problem. I mean it can only be so many things.
What did you do to test the wiring? Did you get a volt meter out, or just a visual check? I had a 78 Chinook, and the wiring was a mess. Not only did they do a pretty sloppy job to begin with, but I was dealing with 30+ years of time and corrosion.
I would check the grounds. In fact no matter how the grounds look I would at least unscrew them, sand down the frame where they attach, then re-attach them so they have good contact. It also wouldn't hurt to run an additional ground.
If you can, find a wiring schematic for the Hunstman. Not sure how much luck you'll have with that...but if you haven't already, the group at Toyotamotorhomes.com will be your best bet. Or the Toyota mini camper yahoo group.
The fact that they all stopped working at the same time definitely tells you something. They must all be on the same circuit, so you need to find that circuit and check it out...
What did you do to test the wiring? Did you get a volt meter out, or just a visual check? I had a 78 Chinook, and the wiring was a mess. Not only did they do a pretty sloppy job to begin with, but I was dealing with 30+ years of time and corrosion.
I would check the grounds. In fact no matter how the grounds look I would at least unscrew them, sand down the frame where they attach, then re-attach them so they have good contact. It also wouldn't hurt to run an additional ground.
If you can, find a wiring schematic for the Hunstman. Not sure how much luck you'll have with that...but if you haven't already, the group at Toyotamotorhomes.com will be your best bet. Or the Toyota mini camper yahoo group.
The fact that they all stopped working at the same time definitely tells you something. They must all be on the same circuit, so you need to find that circuit and check it out...
#3
Not sure if your 81 Huntsman camper has a fusible link or not, but I am having a similar issue were the parking and tail lights were not working.
Traced it to the fusible link that supplies power to both, your dash and interior lights are probably not working as well (they all get power thru the same fusible link).
This is all provided that your wiring is similar to my 83 pickup.
Hopefully this is of some use to you.
Traced it to the fusible link that supplies power to both, your dash and interior lights are probably not working as well (they all get power thru the same fusible link).
This is all provided that your wiring is similar to my 83 pickup.
Hopefully this is of some use to you.
#4
All bets are off with a motorhome...
The marker lights will be likely be spliced off the tail lights, which themselves may or may not follow the same schematic as they did from the Toyota factory. The RV companies did some interesting things with the wiring.
The marker lights will be likely be spliced off the tail lights, which themselves may or may not follow the same schematic as they did from the Toyota factory. The RV companies did some interesting things with the wiring.
#5
Check your fusible links at the battery - could be blown link. I'm not sure how much re-wiring was done on the Huntsman conversion, but there should be 3 fusible links at the batter. 2 green and 1 red.
One green fusible link goes to your ignition power which feeds the C circuit (Keyed - ACC), C/E/F circuits (Keyed - IG) and the starter circuit (Keyed - ST). It basically powers everything that has power only with the ignition switch is on.
The other green fusible link powers the A circuit. This circuit includes the hazards, horn and headlights. It is a constant, non-keyed power source.
The red fusible link powers the B circuit. This circuit includes the tail lights, brake lights, marker lights and dome light. It is also the circuit through which the alternator charges the battery. It is a constant, non-keyed power source as well.
Note, the Tail lights/marker lights are powered by the B circuit; however, the relay for the them is controlled by the combination switch which is powered by the A circuit
I would say that (with the truck completely off - no key) if the headlights, hazards, and horn work, but the brake lights, tail lights, dome light and markers don't, then you likely have a bad RED fusible link.
It's easy to check to see if they are blown - give them a little tug (if they aren't already clearly severed) and it should fall apart. You can also isolate out the fusible links by using a jumper wire, but be careful because your wiring will not have any protection between the battery and the fuse box and you could likely burn up your wiring or start a fire. This IS NOT permanent fix! Obviously if the fusible link is blown then something must have overloaded that circuit so without the link in there that overload may cause you bigger problems. Napa sells fusible link wire if you need some. Shoot, I have a bunch of it if you need it - I can mail some out to you for free!
Another thing to check (this happened to me) is the hazard switch itself. I was driving down the road one day and noticed that I had no turn signals. After pulling over and checking the fuses, everything seems OK. I then went to check to see if my hazards still worked and they did. Turns out that my hazards switch wasn't completely in the off position - it was just sitting in the middle, which caused my turn signals not to work. This likely isn't causing your issue, but again, I have no idea how much re-wiring was don on that conversion - they could have moved lights to different circuits.
One green fusible link goes to your ignition power which feeds the C circuit (Keyed - ACC), C/E/F circuits (Keyed - IG) and the starter circuit (Keyed - ST). It basically powers everything that has power only with the ignition switch is on.
The other green fusible link powers the A circuit. This circuit includes the hazards, horn and headlights. It is a constant, non-keyed power source.
The red fusible link powers the B circuit. This circuit includes the tail lights, brake lights, marker lights and dome light. It is also the circuit through which the alternator charges the battery. It is a constant, non-keyed power source as well.
Note, the Tail lights/marker lights are powered by the B circuit; however, the relay for the them is controlled by the combination switch which is powered by the A circuit
I would say that (with the truck completely off - no key) if the headlights, hazards, and horn work, but the brake lights, tail lights, dome light and markers don't, then you likely have a bad RED fusible link.
It's easy to check to see if they are blown - give them a little tug (if they aren't already clearly severed) and it should fall apart. You can also isolate out the fusible links by using a jumper wire, but be careful because your wiring will not have any protection between the battery and the fuse box and you could likely burn up your wiring or start a fire. This IS NOT permanent fix! Obviously if the fusible link is blown then something must have overloaded that circuit so without the link in there that overload may cause you bigger problems. Napa sells fusible link wire if you need some. Shoot, I have a bunch of it if you need it - I can mail some out to you for free!
Another thing to check (this happened to me) is the hazard switch itself. I was driving down the road one day and noticed that I had no turn signals. After pulling over and checking the fuses, everything seems OK. I then went to check to see if my hazards still worked and they did. Turns out that my hazards switch wasn't completely in the off position - it was just sitting in the middle, which caused my turn signals not to work. This likely isn't causing your issue, but again, I have no idea how much re-wiring was don on that conversion - they could have moved lights to different circuits.
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