1st Gen Crawler

I have somebody who would like to buy the rebuilt 32/36 weber that is currently on my engine. It is in good shape, but i am not convinced it works as well as a new one would. i have a semi built 22r, and want the most bang for my buck. It makes decent power now for having 35" tires, but i am sure it could do a little better.

If this guy wants to buy the rebuilt one, then i will either get a new weber 32/36 or a 38. i have heard good and bad things about the 38, and i am getting decent fuel economy now, and it is my DD and camping rig.

Any thoughts would be helpful; anybody go from a used weber to a new one, or have the 38 currently installed with a similar setup.

Check my signature for the list of mods.

1st Gen Crawler

I have read quite a bit on the differences, and this seems to sum up what most people are saying.

http://www.ebay.com/gds/Weber-32-36-...1180751/g.html

1st Gen Crawler

I am still undecided on which carb i should get...

32/36 is a great all around carb, which i already have an old version.

the 38/38 is made for a modified engine, but won't make low end gains. My engine is pretty modified, but i am not sure if getting a 38 is a step in the right direction for me.

Here is another write-up;

http://www.classicinlines.com/WeberDGV.asp

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

I have no experience with the 32/36, but I decided to go for the 38 because the information on it wasn't clear, some people were saying the fuel economy is way bad, some people said it's fine, one guy said the 38 was too much carb even for his fully modified 22r, others said the 32/36 is too small for anything other than stock 22r, so I decided to try it, here are my specs:

20r head milled 0.015''
mildly ported
1mm oversized valve
port matched intake manifold & transdapt adapter plate
weber 38
doug thorley 4-2-1 header
22r block stock and worn out (now knocking)


And the stock settings that the carb came with are perfect, I bought a jet kit but it was better with the stock jets. I got 19mpg out of a trip half highway half country road with the bed full of camping gear and mud tires, which I think it pretty close to stock even with my mods, the extra weight, the 3'' lift and 31'' tires. Performance was very good but like I mentioned the block is really worn out so I can't way to test it with a cam and rebuilt block it's going to be a little monster.

I think that the people who are against the 38 after trying it are the ones who do not understand the tuning and just slap it on there without following the instructions, and then of course it drinks a ton of fuel and doesn't perform much better than a 32/36.

1st Gen Crawler

I think i am going to go with a Weber 38, and order a jet kit later if i think that i need one.

Rowdydudeman

does the mechanical pump move enough volume for the 38? or would you be swapping to an electric pump too?

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

Weber recommends 3.5psi for the 38 so I would suggest an adj. fuel press. regulator and gauge.

Rowdydudeman

Right, but does the mechanical pump move enough volume for the 38 at all rpm's? I haven't been able to get a fix of the mechanical pump's gph, weber recommends something like 60-75 gph @ 4#'s.

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

I run a holley 7 psi elec. pump, so I can't say, but I haven't heard of anyone having problems with the stock pump, it won't really take much more fuel than a 32/36 at wot.

Rowdydudeman

Exactly. I just bought another yota (84) and the previous owner was trying to convince me the mechanical pump doesn't make enough "pressure" for the 38 weber, that was installed by the original owner (the guy before him). I know these carbs like 4 pounds, any more than that will push past it.

but if there's no risk of starving the carb, I would much rather have a mechanical pump versus buying another electric one to replace the "ill-thought out" electric one he purchased... its a little chinsy.

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

Actually it is the oposite, the stock pumps make too much pressure. But it ''might'' not make enough flow (pressure/flow, not the same thing), that I don't know for sure but no one seems to have any problems, I think else it would be common knowledge in the weber world. In my weber manual that came with the 38 it says 3.5 psi max if I remember correctly.

Rowdydudeman

I tried explaining that to him... XDXD "it's not the pressure that's the issue but VOLUME instead..."
I'll dig through my FSM again and see if i can find the flow numbers for the mechanical pump. failing that, I hope someone else knows. DZ? BBP? Anyone?

mwisham

I have a 1980 with a 20R in it. I removed all the smog crap put a 38 Weber and exhaust header on it with the stock mechanical fuel pump and I have had no problems at all. Runs like a sewing machine. I also put E-3 plugs in it and a DUI one wire distributor on it.

Rowdydudeman

Fantastic. I checked my FSM and it did not specify the gph for the mechanical pump, I guess I'll have to do it the old fashioned way... *squeeze... measure... squeeze... measure...* lol

I have a feeling this guy just didn't tune the carb properly before removing the mech and installing the electric pump. hopefully I'll get a chance to finish up and get it timed and running this weekend.

84on33s

I went from a stock carb to the 32/36 weber and went from 14mpg to about 19mpg and it added probably 25hp and mines got a 4 inch lift and 33 inch tires.couldn't be happier with the 32/36. but I have heard the 32/38 will give you more. For the money it's worth it.

jimbyjimb

iTrader: (1)

I promise you a carb swap did not net you any more than 1/2 horsepower unless your factory setup was defective. Sounds like it was. An improvement in throttle response does not always equate to an increase in horsepower. A 32/36 is not a performance carburetor for these engines, it's an economical method of simplification.

There is no 32/38. The 38/38 is a synchronous carb, not progressive. Information being power, please ensure you are correct before spreading bad info. People come here for help.

jimbyjimb

iTrader: (1)

To add info to this resurrected thread;

22R/20R head with custom valve undercut, OS valves and very mild port
LCE street performer cam
Weber 38 @ 40 idle jets (smallest they offer) and I did increase main and air jets but I can't remember what to. Runs like a dream.

With a 32/36 it made much less low-end power and idled very poorly. The cam is right on the edge where a 32/36 is working real hard at idle to feed the beast through that one, tiny 32mm venturi.

Once the cam gets above .420 lift I always suggest moving to a 38. A 32/36 will work, but why use a bigger cam if you have no intent to use it?

Around town mileage dropped 1.5mpg as I am a lead foot. Freeway cruise stayed identical at 18-19 mpg 65+mph.

If you drive soft it will get the same economy, or very close to.

Oneyejosh

I own 4 32/36 Weber carbs. Two of them are performance models and two of them are economy stock replacement models.

jimbyjimb

iTrader: (1)

You can own anything with any name on it you want. The hottest 32/36 only flows so much air/fuel and it’s a function of displacement/power adders/cam profile, etc. The stock 22R carb flows more than a 32/36. Add all the tags to it you want, it’s not a performance carb on a 2.2L engine. Just as it’s not a performance carb on a Ford 460. Might be a performance carb on a 1.8 Isuzu.

Oneyejosh

There is a difference between the economy and what they call the performance 32/36 , mostly due to the latter not having extra emissions junk. A 22r is 2.4l not 2.2l by the way.