If there is a advance auto parts store in your area I think they rent timing lights. If not you can find a cheaper one at autozone. Eventually I have my eye on a craftsman but haven't gotten 160 up for it yet.

 

Thanks Trevor. I also noticed today that my belt was slipping on the water pump pulley causing my fan not to turn as it should I wonder if a slipping belt could be a source of my problems. keep in mind my ac and smog pump are gone.

 

The belt might be loose or the water pump bearings might be going bad....just my. 02

 

They prob both need to be replaced any way.

 

After much research the weber carb that webercarbsdirct.com sells for my truck is not made in spain or has the markings on it to prove so. I also talked to a guy that agreed to take my carb back. So I will be sending it back.
I also took my waterpump off today. That joker seemed to be locked up so It will get replaced in the future.

 

Im not throwing in the towel just yet. Im gonna try to give this truck a chance to see the open roads again.

 

The fake Weber could be the cause of 90% of your problems although the locked up water pump probably ly wasn't helping your cause either getting it to idle.

Personally I'm waiting to get a sheet of 3/16 aluminum so that I can make some light/gauge/switch panels. Money always gets tight around the holidays but I'm coming up on my 10yr mark along with the clothing allowance....so the future is bright.....and maybe something else but its a long shot at this point.

Hell I might not even have a legit Weber.....don't know where it.came from.

 

Congrats on the ten year. What are the switch plates for?
Also that guy from weber didn't email me so I'm calling those dingle berries tomorrow.

 

Well more for future stuff but right now for the vent mod that I did. The trouble with the mod is that the Weber is natrually vented to the open air with only atmospheric pressure. When I modified it I sealed the vent and introduced positive pressure to the vent from the gas tank.

Solution I am doing is a fuel tank switch so I can run vented when I'm doing road driving....and seal it up to do hills but I gotta start mounting switches, lights, and an auxiliary fuse box to set up for later stuff like hella lights etc. Everything needs to be fused to prevent damage and to group grounding for accessories.


Before I thread Jack too much I will see if I can find my thread on the fuse box I did on my 98 4runner. It has some good input in there and some excellent sources for DIY electrical junk.

 

Right on!! Yeah I seen that mod on one of those threads. Not sure who it was though. That makes me wonder since my truck ain't for offload then maybe I need an evap can. If that makes any sense at all.

 

The legit Weber will have the underlined "W" in the casting, not a sticker or painted on like d-wood's.

Bummer that you're having so much trouble getting this old girl running. Hope you get the fake carb issue resolved. If you're doing the water pump I'd do the oil pump while I had that stuff apart. Always try to get asin/oem for things like h2o and oil pumps. Hell, on most critical parts. These trucks didn't last over 200k on little more than oil changes by having crap/cheap stock components.

 

hey man i know where a 20r engine and tranny is in ohio for 250+ shipping let me know if your intrested ill give you his info

 

x2 on that. Napa is the other part that I would trust for a while. Autozone is junk though. If possible go with the oem stuff....it's worth the cash.

 

No thanks but thanks for the offer on the 20r.
That guy from weber never sent me my info so I guess I will be calling him back.

 

I took my VALVE cover off and this is what it looks likes under there. How can I clean this stuff out the right way or whatever way. LOL

 

 

I didnt know 20R's came with doubled timing chains. Thought that started with +1982 22R's. I have that same picture from my engine and its doubled timing chains. Can look down at your timing guides and see if they are plastic or metal?

 

If I remember from earlier it's metal. What does that mean for me?

 

That rocker assembly isn't that bad off, but I would clean it up while you have it apart. Take the rocker assembly off by unbolting the 10 head bolts and it'll come off with a couple light taps or a little prying. Here's what mine looked like before I cleaned them up:



After clean up and sitting on the head:



Here's what I did:
1 - Unscrew the rocker rails from each end
2 - Disassemble all the rockers, springs, spacers and rocker piers
3 - Make sure you keep them in order for easy reassembly and so they match the correct cam lobe that they are worn to.
4 - Check the lobe surface of the rockers and cam - both should be smooth and shiny
5 - Clean each part individually using degreaser, mineral spirits, compressed air, wire brush and plastic bristle brush
6 - Be sure not to wire brush the cam lobe surface on the cam and rockers or the rocker rails
7 - Make sure that all oil journals are free and clear of gunk, I let mine soak over night and blew them out with compressed are.
8 - Reassemble every in the correct order - make sure you coat all moving surfaces with some assembly lube.

It's really not that difficult of a process, just messy and a little tedious. You definately DO NOT want to do this with the rocker assembly installed. There's too much gunk that could get caught up in your head. Plus you can get some of the gunk cleaned off the head too with the rockers out of the way. You also might want to relash all your valves when you are finished.

 

Thanks kawaz. I appreciate the mini write up. Thanks!