I have a question about that write up. Its for a 38 and mines a 32/36. I notices the adjustments recommended were different than mine. Are those the adjustment on idle and stuff the ones I do or stick with the one that dropzone recommends, the one thats a sticky. Also, I cant find the one piece adapter on summit racing and I called up lcengineering.com and they said they didnt have anything for my 20r as far as one piece goes.
Thanks for all the help. I feel theres still hope to get my rust bucket going.LOL!!!

 

I think I found it. Is this the right one for my 20r?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-2120

 

Pretty sure that is the adapter. I have the LC engineering one....technically it is 2 pieces....however it seals up like a drum. Much better design IMO. I used the adjustment recommendations for the 38 especially for the idle and mix screws only being adjusted so far and I had a great result...now if I could just finish what I started without taking out a mortgage I'd be in great shape lol.

 

Same here brothaman!

 

This is what I ordered for my Weber 32/36.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-2120

 

let us know how this works for you, I just bought a weber from weber direct like you did, it hasnt gotten here yet but im thinking i should just order that adapter now anyways.

 

I hope you get it running man. After that its tweaking and tinkering to get it perfect....which can be frustrating but at least you know you're in the ballpark

 

85 toy, I will keep all updated dude and I would def get that adapt or the spiral adapt frOm lc. I hope so krypto. You've been a big help along with others.

 

Ok, so I got my Trans adapt in. I had to spray some starter fluid to get it to crank. I checked and it's getting fuel when I hand press the throttle. It won't stay cranked so I'm lost. I can keep it going for a bit by spraying fluid in it but it still dies.

 

Did you put a fuel pressure regulator on it? Also have you checked to see of your gas under the are in bad shape? Could be losing fuel pressure somewhere maybe. Just a thought.

 

Well did have a regulator on and took it off. Seems like it wants to stay running at 2 turns out on my mixture and 1-1/2 on the idle. It runs like a tractor.

 

I've never tuned a 32/36, but I would imagine it's a different procedure since there are two different venturi sizes.

There are various adapters around, and I've even seen people make their own. As long as the gasket surfaces are MACHINED and BARE metal, not CAST and CHROMED, you should be ok. Be sure to use a good gasket each time. I prefer a very light coating of Permatex aviation gasket sealant on all surfaces, let them dry a few minutes, then install and torque. Be sure to check your torque every once in a while, as the gaskets will continue to seat over time.

 

You are welcome! I was very confused at first too.

I agree about the Weber tech forum for sure!

Also, Weber / Redline should fire their engineering department and hire me instead.

 

The reason I posted the procedure wasn't precisely for the adjustment part since its different even for a 20 vs 22r but because of what happens when you're out or in too far on the screws. I did not know that and that's what did the trick for me with tuning.

 

LOL....well at least then we could call for advice and they wouldn't ask.....why are you putting a Weber on that?

 

I had to torque by feel. I could only get my torque wrench on two of the bolts. Im beginning to think I need to adjust my timing. It stays cranked then dies. I cant give it any gas or it dies. I took my cap off and the rotor is at 4 oclock position. I got it to the 11 position and cranked it and after it dies it went back to the 4 position.

 

Oh yeah for sure, you're not getting a torque wrench on those nuts. I just meant make sure they aren't loose, pretty much.

As for getting your distributor back in time, I have a feeling you're 180° out of time.

1. Remove #1 (most forward) spark plug and distributor.
2. Install socket and breaker bar / ratchet onto crankshaft pulley bolt and rotate engine in direction of operation while feeling the air come out of the hole. What you're looking for here is top dead center on the COMPRESSION stroke, which is when you will feel the most air blowing out of the hole. Another way to verify you are on compression stroke is to take off the valve cover and feel the rocker arms. If they are loose and not pressing against the valves, you are not on compression stroke. Rotate the crankshaft 360° and you should be on compression stroke.
3. Once you know you're on compression stroke, rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the pulley lines up with the '0' mark on the engine block. You now have #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke.
4. Slowly insert the distributor into the block with the rotor pointing upward; the mounting hole on the engine should be in the middle of the bolt hole in the distributor. When the distributor is all the way in, the rotor should line up towards the vacuum diaphragm on the distributor.
5. Using a timing light, verify that the timing is about 0° for a stock engine, and up to 10° advanced for performance carburetors. Or, whatever works best. If you can't get it in time from there, you probably missed the correct gears, so take it out and start over. If that fails, I was wrong and there is some other problem.

 

^^nice instructions on timing

 

Do I already have a mark on my pulley cause I didnt see one unless its just rusted so bad. I may just take the valve cover off. The only thing is I dont have a timing light and if I did I could have to find a thread on how to use it.
This really stinks because it cranks and wont stay cranked.

#1 Webercarbsdirect=sucks
#2 I dont know what the heck Im doing anyway
#3 I cant think of #3 right now but im sure I will.

 

Ohhhhhh I don't have any personal experience on this, but I've heard that Webercarbsdirect is actually a scam company that sells fake Webers, so that may be part of your problem.

You can rent timing lights from most auto parts stores, sometimes for free.

If you can't see the timing marks, you're going to need to do some cleaning! Once you find them, use a paint marker to make it stay visible a bit longer.

Here is what they should look like:

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...528004d28c.jpg