Aussie locker review
#22
I admire your patience.
I've heard good things about the performance of the Powertrax No-Slip. Some say its 80% smoother/ quieter than the Lockright. I don't know where they got that figure, but it still gives you an idea. The reliability is another issue. Seems like the No-Slip and the Lock RIght have reliability issues that the Aussie does not.
I've heard good things about the performance of the Powertrax No-Slip. Some say its 80% smoother/ quieter than the Lockright. I don't know where they got that figure, but it still gives you an idea. The reliability is another issue. Seems like the No-Slip and the Lock RIght have reliability issues that the Aussie does not.
It seems like most people i hear from say the lockright is good too and they have not problems, so i might just get on next check. Still deciding on what to do.
Or maybe lockright rear, aussie front? I am in the same boat as you, we do get some snow, but there is no highway driving on it, just around town is where there is snow.
I think ill go rear locker first and probably leave the front open though.
#23
I'd like a front locker but I don't really need one at this point. The rear is pretty effective on its own. I drive on snowy highways so its a selectable or nothing up front for me. If you only use 4wd off road, then an Aussie would be nice up front. It would allow you more steering ability than the ARB would when locked.
I don't know what you should do about the rear locker. I'd keep bugging Bill Cole until he finally gets the long overdue 4 pinion locker out.
I don't know what you should do about the rear locker. I'd keep bugging Bill Cole until he finally gets the long overdue 4 pinion locker out.
#24
#25
I can't quite figure this out, at least why the locker would make any difference. When accelerating in a straight line on asphalt, the tires are doing the same whether you're locked or open. I think it's way more likely the absence of a swaybar as both were removed at the same time.
Thanks, I'm glad you found it to be informative. I would be very interested to have an Aussie vs. Detroit Soft Locker face-off.
I think it's likely going to be an ARB upfront for me. I use 4wd on the highway on ice and snow. I'm convinced the rear auto locker is not a safety issue on snow and ice- put it in 4wd when the rear starts getting slipping. That said, I wouldn't like my front tires skidding. Ever.
Thanks, I'm glad you found it to be informative. I would be very interested to have an Aussie vs. Detroit Soft Locker face-off.
I think it's likely going to be an ARB upfront for me. I use 4wd on the highway on ice and snow. I'm convinced the rear auto locker is not a safety issue on snow and ice- put it in 4wd when the rear starts getting slipping. That said, I wouldn't like my front tires skidding. Ever.
The hood twist on takeoff is actually kinda cool. With an open diff, the takeoff isn't as positive because the torque is going to the wheel with the least traction (i.e. small amounts of slippage that aren't really noticeable). With the locker it's going to the wheel with the most traction, so it torque-twists the suspension. Swaybar might mute it a little. I don't have any sway bar connected.
#26
If you have manual hubs, leave them unlocked on roads in snow. I drive to Winter Park Ski Area almost every weekend. Never put it it in 4WD all season, even when there was 6" of snow on the road since the last plow went through. No need. If the fronts are free-wheeling, 90% of the time you have better steering control than if you have it in 4wd. I saw tons of SUV's in the ditch this winter, and that's part of the problem. The full-time 4WD screws up your steering on slick roads.
The hood twist on takeoff is actually kinda cool. With an open diff, the takeoff isn't as positive because the torque is going to the wheel with the least traction (i.e. small amounts of slippage that aren't really noticeable). With the locker it's going to the wheel with the most traction, so it torque-twists the suspension. Swaybar might mute it a little. I don't have any sway bar connected.
The hood twist on takeoff is actually kinda cool. With an open diff, the takeoff isn't as positive because the torque is going to the wheel with the least traction (i.e. small amounts of slippage that aren't really noticeable). With the locker it's going to the wheel with the most traction, so it torque-twists the suspension. Swaybar might mute it a little. I don't have any sway bar connected.
I also like the hood twist, but I want my rear sway bar back in. Otherwise the front just doesn't flex.
#27
Even with manual hub I find myself selecting which route will require 4wd and which will not. The F locker makes me use the 16 point turn method. And good god man is she hard to steer when shes in a bind.
Aaron
Aaron
#30
Aaron
#32
Maybe we are running in circles here, I have manual hubs.... so no need to disable add, if the hubs are off the cv's are free to spin to their hearts content. But if I'm going that route I mine as well just stay in 2wd with the hubs on. Though that poses the question if the add is dissabled then wouldn't you be in 2wd anyway? We can continue this via pm as not to junk up your well written thread.
Aaron
Aaron
#33
If your 4runner has ADD (if you added hubs yourself), then when you shift your T case into 4wd, the ADD automatically engages the drivers side axle connecting it to the diff. Both CVs are always spinning when your hubs are locked, just in order to keep the front propellor shaft (from the T case to the front diff) stationary, one of the axles is disconnected from the diff. You cold effectively do this with manual hubs as well.
What I am suggesting is that instead of getting out of your truck to disengage one of your CVs, you trick the ADD into disengaging one of your axles to make a tight turn.
This might work well off road in tight quarters, but on the road in snow, I don't think it would be as safe as a front selectable.
What I am suggesting is that instead of getting out of your truck to disengage one of your CVs, you trick the ADD into disengaging one of your axles to make a tight turn.
This might work well off road in tight quarters, but on the road in snow, I don't think it would be as safe as a front selectable.
#35
904 said-
"Exactly, about the waiting part.
Ill probably give it another few months and continue to hope one will be produced, maybe it could happen, but when there is still no Aussie, then ill probably end up with a lock-right."
I got a reply email with in a couple hours the other day in question about the V6/Turbo Aussie and it was mentioned 4 weeks to ship so it shouldn't be too much longer. I happen to have a parts truck (turbo) that I'm stealing from so I just ordered a 4cyl Aussie that will move from the rear axle to the front when the turbo unit is available.
Great original write-up, btw
"Exactly, about the waiting part.
Ill probably give it another few months and continue to hope one will be produced, maybe it could happen, but when there is still no Aussie, then ill probably end up with a lock-right."
I got a reply email with in a couple hours the other day in question about the V6/Turbo Aussie and it was mentioned 4 weeks to ship so it shouldn't be too much longer. I happen to have a parts truck (turbo) that I'm stealing from so I just ordered a 4cyl Aussie that will move from the rear axle to the front when the turbo unit is available.
Great original write-up, btw
#36
matt, I was thinking about a locker up front(aussie) but was concerned abouthte hiway 4wd snow/ice conditions too. When the truck is in 4h on a bad hiway I can drive 80km no problem. I have manual hubs and if I lock just one with a front locker set up would that be the same as I have now?
#37
matt, I was thinking about a locker up front(aussie) but was concerned abouthte hiway 4wd snow/ice conditions too. When the truck is in 4h on a bad hiway I can drive 80km no problem. I have manual hubs and if I lock just one with a front locker set up would that be the same as I have now?
Best bet would be to solicit the opinion of someone who has an Aussie up front.
#38
thanks man, I thoight a lockers in the front would be less intrusive but if your say the rear works almost unnoticably then I might go that route. With the hubs I think I have the option.
#40
I thought the hubs would totally eleviate all problems with locking the front, I could drive around none the wiser but when I needed it I could just lock both hubs and throw it in 4x. I have heard steering when locked is difficult but most trail riding is 2x anyway. I thought that I would be more likley to have both front tires on the ground as aposed to both back, and no locked rear issues while driving around.